SkylineGTT25

Thanks for the update guys, we'll wait till then and see what happens!

Hello territorians, I'm trying to contact OKBANANA (Dallas S), as I purchased a R34 Alternator My link from him over a month ago and after confirming that he had sent it, then said it was returned to his house, now he won't answer his phone, emails or text. I realise he works for the government and works away on occasion so I'm trying to give this the benefit of the doubt, but dead silence is not helping. Maybe someone on the forum/ACT area knows his situation?? Thanks

Anybody had any experience in fitting Bride Stradia Sport or Gias Sport seat/s into a R34 GTT (2 or 4 door) using the RO type rail, as I've been told they don't fit (for some unknown reason) ? If someone has fitted these I would also appreciate some comments on these seats and the seat position height relative to the standard seats and how much it lowered it (if at all). Thanks

Not sure when we may get a answer to these rate questions, but here a link to a basic calculator which may help. http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/coilsprate.htm

Gary, one for you - ID 80mm/80mm Wire OD 16mm 8.5 turns Thanks again J

Does anybody work at a Nissan Dealer ? Looking for the 06 or 07 Fast version which covers the Australian delivered vehicles, particulary the D40 Navara and R51 Pathfinder ?

No takers ?

In a word NO, done the job recently and I doubt you'd be able to get the rail off without taking the plenum off and by the time you tried to do it you'd have it all apart anyway. Hardest part is getting the 3 bottom bolts (on plenum) started when putting it back together, just need a bit of patience ! And I got away without having to replace the gasket, not recommended I know but you just need to be care when spliting it.

Is this the full set (front and back) ? What brand of spring ? Where did these Bilstein's come from - "Sydney Kid" or normal suspension shop ? Also pictures please ? Thanks

No worries, just about ready to take the my car to CES to do the works as you have done - seems to be the best/sensible option going around our area.

Item: 3" RS*R Brand "Exmag GT II" Catback exhaust for R34 GTT sedan including stainless steel canon muffler with 4" Tip and removeable centre tip for extra flow and noise. Age:Came with car from Japan before compliance 3 years ago Condition:Excellent Price: $200 or resonable offers To Fit:R34 GTT seadn Location:Yamba North Coast NSW Contact:Jeremy 0409605419 Comments:For pickup only, can delivery to Gold Coast/Brisbane area on my next trip. See the RS*R US website RS*R US website

Did you sell this exhaust system Dan ?

Biggest problem with the standard steup if finding larger capacity batteries with the small type terminals but they are available - I found a 450CCA "Supercharge Gold EXG" brand, model MF55B24R from a specialist battery shop, which you won't find at you Repco or Supercheap which only sell around a 300CCA with the small terminals (to suit Nissan Micra's and the like). Whilst the 450CCA battery is wider between the terminals it was no longer and about the same height so the original clamp still fits. Had this battery for over a year now without any problems and I think it comes with 3 year warranty. Hope this helps

Part number for R34 GTT 82degree thermostat should be 21200-V7205.

Cheers Gary, thankyou !

Gary, couple more please - Coil ID = 102/88.5 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 6.1 turns Spring rate = ??? Coil ID = 102/92 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 8.9 turns Spring rate = ??? Coil ID = 99/68 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 7.25 turns Spring rate = ??? Thanks

Bump - Gary, thought you might has missed the above

Couple to calculate please - Coil ID = 98/66 mm Wire OD = 11.75 mm # of Coils = 7.25 turns Coil ID = 96/71 mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 7.75 turns Thanks

According to the service manual should be 6 ohms max when tank is full and 80 ohms min when empty.

After being booked for the whole day I managed a total of 3 laps on the first run, thanks to the good old ceramic turbine wheel exploding in my turbo (and this is a totally stock engine running standard boost). After removing the dump pipe and tipping it on it's end, it was like tipping rocks out of a steel bucket. Anyway s..t happens and it's now going to get a GCG rebuild/flow job, which will hurt the bank but look forward to future track days !

PM sent

Follow up on the PWR radiator into my R34 GTT - Engine Coolant temp now sits on 86-87 degrees C consistantly whether around town or on the highway cruising 100-110 km/h and also after numerous hard acceration runs still it doesn't change. Oil temp sit on 92-95 degrees and also doesn't chnage from that range This is with a 32-35 degrees ambient temp middle of the day. Look forward to doing a track day to see how the temps go then. Following is some pics of the radiator. First pic show difference in the thickness between the original rad and the PWR one !

The only way to check is to have the top tank removed from the radiator professionally and check the water flow through each of the tubes. You can have the radiator connected to the garden hose in the back yard for a fortnight and you will never know if it partially blocked and it won't clear it either.

After some "running hotter then normal" dramas with my stock standard R34 I would rate the oil temp gauge as a better indication of the actual water temperature then the water temp gauge itself. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that the water temperature is actually the same as the what the oil temp gauge says, but after some tests with the "Consult" adapter and my laptop the oil temp appears on the majority of occasions to move in relationship to what the water temp is doing. Let me explain further - currently this summer my car running on the North Coast of NSW (mostly hwy cruising with A/C on) in the daytime (similar weather to SE QLD) shows similar oil temps to the one in the picture above, so around 100 degrees and water temp is actually running 88-89 degrees. Now, when I had these running hotter dramas a few months back I saw 120 degrees oil temps and around 105-110 degrees water temp and at this water temperature the water temp gauge was barely over the halfway mark and at a cold track day at Wakefield I also saw 130 + degrees oil temp. Also the ECU doesn't record a error with water temp until it reaches 140 degrees (I tested this with the Consult) and at this point I would assume that the water temp gauge would show "hot". What I would suggest is that the hotter the water temps gets the more the ECU richens the mixture which = less power and it certainly felt that way. So what caused my "running hotter dramas" - after f--king around with the thermostats, temp senders and fan clutches it turned out the radiator was blocked (internally) by over 50% (tubes where calsified up), so for anyone suspecting there running hot I would suggest the first thing to check would be the radiator, it means taking it into a good radiator shop and removing atleast the top tank and check that all the tubes are clear. Lastly with this issue/testing I rate the standard manual radiator for our northern hot/humid summers as marginal at best, sure if your only cruising around town then no problem but if you do any track days even in spring or autumn I believe the engine is going to run a lot above the ideal 85/86 degrees after about the first 1/2 lap. Therefore I have decided to have made and fit a PWR 40mm radiator (which appears to be the first R34 GTT radiator they have made, as I had to send my standard radiator in so they could measure it up) and I would expect to see a drop in these normal running temperatures. Will let you know how it goes as I will pick the PWR radiator up tomorrow and all going well, fit it over the weekend.

Nobody got a second hand one laying around after putting in there PWR (or the like) all alu job ??