Steve

You have got to be kidding the only way iridiums will cause mis-fire is if you have the wrong ones/wrong gap I was putting down well over 400rwhp with them no probs (HKS3037S56T running up to 1.8 bar) - much better than copper, and platinum too imo, both of which didnt seem to like much over 350rwhp If you are using your car mainly for street, use a 6 or 7 heat range, gapped to 0.8mm (plug BCPR6EIX, or BCPR7EIX), if you thrash your car hard, or running serious mods go the iriway 8. Once you go colder than 8 heat range, you can have some difficulty on cold starts, and the plugs can foul pretty easily - so best avoided unless you are building a track car, and dont mind having to pull the plugs and clean them from time to time so it can start 8 heat range however is fine, I have been running them in my daily now for well over a year, on and off the track, and they dont skip a beat. If you can only get BCPR6/7EIX-11, they are gapped to 1.1mm and should be gapped down to 0.8, do it gently or you can stuff the iridium coating.

7 July, next comp is 30 july

why is it so hard to understand, if the cops arent sure, they send the car to be inspected TO MAKE SURE its that simple. And for you that wish cops were better educated, wait until they start pulling kick panels to check the ecu, or know which model of AFM goes with which car, or the colour of factor injectors, etc - THEN they will know what they are doing, and just listen to the whingers then.

NO the cops are a big bunch of wankers, that all consipire against YOU - its true, they all want nothing more than to just defect YOU ffs, read properly, stop being a victim and grow up

Any car that stands out, will get attention - dont need to be a brain surgeon to work that out. If you dont like the attention driving a nice car draws, buy a commodore - if you dont want a commodore - deal with it facts of life of course a modified car will attract more attention from the cops, and so it should - ANY car that is varied from ADRs is not street legal - now which car is more likely to be varied: 1/ the stock commodore 2/ the modified car Once again, it isnt really hard to work out now is it? Would you look for drugs on some strung out junkie who is walking around the street off his face? or on a guy who has just walked out of a church wearing a suit, well groomed and smelling of aftershave? (ok, mr kizon may be an exception here ) Why wouldn't the police look at modified cars? everyone else does - all they are doing is trying to make sure everyone follows the rules - if they beleive there MAY have been a breach of those laws, they investigate, and take action as necessary - if they didnt, they arent doing what they are being paid to do. Once agian, it aint rocket science. if you have a problem with cops trying to enforce the law - lobby parliament to have the laws changed, the cops dont make the rules, they just try and make sure the rules are followed - its their job, why shouldnt they do it?

seriously, you expect to appear grown up with comments like that? lol 8005TED, if cops are doing such a shit job (cos to read your posts, it appears you think coppers are shit) - Do you think you can do a much better job, why not join up and do something about it? owning a modified car or import gets attention form everybody, if you dont like it, buy a stock commodore

according to the workshop manual I have, the fuel pressure for R32 (RB20E, RB20DE, RB20DET, and RB26DETT) is the same as most nissan imports, ie 2.55kg at idle and 3.05 at atmosphere

I think you may be confusing criminal law with the road traffic act. Yes they can search your car, at whim, thats why its called a 'random vehicle check' If you try and stop them, then you will be committing an offence, under the road traffic act What is the problem with a cop doing a random liscence check? what is the problem with a cop who stops a car? If your car was stolen, and a cop just happened to stop the guy stealing it, you would be pretty bloody happy. There just seems to be alot of whingers on here, some people need to grow up

90 weight is way too light, no wonder it clunks - best oil I have found for mech diffs is 85W/140 - Castrol, Penrite and Valvoline all work well from my experience (85w140 that is)

never ran a 1/4 with the 3037s, just doesnt interest me sorry

the compressor wheel is different, as is the compressor cover and the inducer - which you can only buy from HKS. The HKS turbo has a split type inducer to prevent surge, and a 0.6 AR compressor Vs the garret 0.7 on the gt30 I have seen a few people try and get the same results from garret gt30 turbos, but none have I seen that can compare, both in how early they come on boost, overall power top end, midrange, infact everywhere - chalk and cheese. My HKS 3037 was coming on boost with a 0.87 turbine housing earlier than guys I know who were using the gt30 with the 0.63 - with the 0.61 housing on the HKS turbo, boost was hitting very, very hard at 3000rpm - anything over 1 bar and I just couldnt keep traction - in any gear at any speed - it just ramped up so qiuickly. With the 0.87 it was a little laggier, but you could control boost with the throttle. At WOT in 4th gear, made 1.2 bar under 4000rpm all the same. bottom line, IMO, spend a bit extra

I would decompress the engine if I were you... 300rwkw is fine on a stock healthy RB25, HEAPS of japanese guys have done it. JMS R33 did it for years, my 33 did it no probs BUT the big thing (and this is according to japanese experts) decompress the engine first - HKS 1.6mm headgasket gives an 8.6:1 CR - which is safe accoding to the experts The 3037S would go close I recon, I ended up getting 290rwkw at 1.2 bar, at 1.4 it made 321. That was with the 0.87 turbine housing, had around 1.2 bar at 4000rpm. When I initially put the turbo on, it had the 0.61 housing, and boost hit so hard at 3000rpm, I never even bothered trying to see what it would do, anything above 1 bar was unstreetable, but with a basic (15 minute) matrin donnon tune it turned out 256 at 1 bar. 3" exhaust will be fine, as long as there are minimal bends and not much else good luck.

do you mean Carbon fibre type carbon? most wholesale/retail fiberglass supply shops should have it or be able to source it

Under RAWS, standard is completely standard to OEM spec. Most places that bring cars under RAWS will have some OEM parts, but if your car is highly modified, they may not have the parts to comply it.

have you done the break in process? (figure 8s as per the website) they can be a bit harsh unless they are broken in properly and oil changed regularly using good oil.

Flash89, here is a link for you http://westdrift.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9530#9530 hope that helps

go to www.westdrift.com - all the info you need is on there next practice is on 2 june

if its a 2 K silvia, could it be a ca na auto? if so, forget it, it wont drift As for hitting other cars, its a practice, you dont have to do tandem runs or battles - so as long as your eyes are open, and you have more than 1/3 of a brain - there isnt much chance of hitting other cars

My 0.02 - dont use crap tyres, cos if you do you wont have decent traction and will spin out heaps - WASCC is a high speed track through the front section, so traction is important. Get a good wheel alignment, there is nothing more frustrating than have a poor wheel alignment and the car just wont handle properly. If you make sure the car is set up reasonably well beforehand, then you can have a great time, even if it is only once a month. If the car isnt handling right, you just wasted your only opportunity for the month to thrash, and that can really piss you off (it does me) the sessions once a month, whilst not frequent enough for my liking, is better than nothing at all If you are new to it, dont be scared to give it a go. Its great fun and they have newbies lanes and experienced lanes for staging. You shouldnt fear spinning out - its a practice and thats what people do, both beginners and more experienced. If anything, often the more experienced may spin out more, cos they are pushing their limits harder just do it

definately re-bleed the cooling system - I have always found that just doing it when filling up the radiator always leaves bubbles... Best way I have found (this sounds a bit dodge, but works very well) is to cut a coke bottle in half, and tape the open end to the radiator fill hole. Then run the engine until the thermostat opens and wait for the bubbles to stop coming up. The coolant level in the coke bottle must be above the head, cos the bubbles always go to the thigh point (which is why some people fit header tanks) Tecaloy 90 coolant works well too...

went through welshpool with a nismo 2 way - but its not very 'clunky'

well, I could use that one to demonstrate how long the turbo will last with a BOV too.... I sort of posted to illustrate the nature of Bunta's post, ie, its pretty much worthless, and almost paranoid in nature - I think someone has been paying too much attention to BOV salesmen. I have been running (edit) without a bov for around 18months, on a second had turbo, track thrashing (drift) regularly and the turbo is fine, ...but anyway, the worth of a bov is a completely different story, and has been done to death also

so how long does a turbo last without a bov?????

Got mine from D1 Garage in SA, 08 8294 1355 - think they sell for around the $330 mark new, so pretty cheap. Its worth cutting the original guard so you can get a bit of extra track width, which is a pretty easy DIY. Dont need to smooth them etc unless you want a show car, just rivet them on, spray and your done I'll show you how mine are dont next practice day if your there - or if you prefer, I'll just drop in to your work next time I am heading past

who really gives a fark anyways???? How many cars are out there that are TOTALLY legal, really