Steve

I think they are around 8kg or 9 kg each - mine certainly werent as heavy as your average g-max rims they look like this: they even make them in 4 stud for th NA guys

Round 1 - February 24-25, Barbagallo Raceway, WA This is goint to be bloody awesome - the DA season for next year is going to be kicked off in WA I'm excited and big ups to the organisers for securing a round this year - australias toughest drift cars, and the best drivers doing battle, this is going to be insane make sure you put the dates in your calender, so you can cheer on our own Adam Trewellah (aka borneo) who has been entering eastern states rounds for years now - finally he gets a home ground advantage.

if you want reasonably priced rims, Beaurepairs in Myaree sell drift tek rims - $270 for 17 x 8 and $295 for 17 x 9, both +30 offset - these rims are identical to Uras NS-01, but alot cheaper they are also selling 215/45R17 Antyres at the special price of $105, but you gotta tell them they are for drift, cos otherwise you pay $150 each - you will also need to speak to Yang - the manager. For a reasonably grippy tyre at a reasonable price, I have found Federal 595 SS are quite good, or if you want hardcore grip, the Federal 595RS are excellent, and the cheapest R comp tyres around, but they wear very well.

Sounds like it... I did some checking, the shocks in the Oz superstreets are different to Jdm ones They are assembled in aust, but fulcrum (so I have been told), and have all parts necessary to fully rebuild if needed. the Jdm ones use different internal components, and are assembled in J-land this is what I was told by a dealer over here in WA that sold the Japanese super streets, not the Australian ones

flash89, go too big on the rubber, and your car will handle poorly due to excessive sidewall flex If you want good traction, make sure you have good suspension, and ALL the parts are in good condtion, get a good wheel alignment, and use good rubber You may be surprised to know, a good drift setup is very similar to a good grip setup. Option publised a dvd with D1 drift cars doing grip laps around tsukuba, some lapped in under 1 minute, which is considered very quick

As it states in my original post, I DID PASS with all adjustable arms, except the lower control arms - this includes pillow ball tie rod ends front and the coilvers were D2 (mistake buying them) The condition of aftermarket parts, and the overall condition of the car, is the main thing - if your car is a dog, they will go over it with a fine tooth comb and pick on everything. If your car is very clean and well maintained, your usually fine - that's what I have found anyway.

In WA, you can get OZ super streets from wilkinson suspension or from Xspeed I would doubt you can get a permit for any suspsension mods in WA - I tried to, at welshpool when my car passed the pits (coilovers and just about every adjustable arm you can fit on S13), but the inspector said they dont issue them for suspension, its either legal or not. The Aus spec super streets retail for around $400 more than the japanese ones

Apart from the fact that the bloody things fall apart (my rears have died twice in just over 12 months, I have seen customers with them where the shaft has bent over 45 degrees from street driving, etc) the lack of rebound adjustment is a bloody killer I just dont understand how a shock is supposed to control a car with only bump adjustment? they dont work well at all, decent matched struts and springs are miles ahead of D2s Michael, what sort of quality control allows NEW rear coilovers (both of them) to be sent out in a defective state? How happy would you be if your brake pads came out to you in a defective state? dodgey

That was mainly street work, but driving pretty hard on them with some kms through the hills around adelaide (god I miss them) I wasn't the only one getting that sort of wear, a mate also got around the same out of his RE55s

I have used RE55S, great grip, but only got a bit over 1500kms out of them I have also used RE540, better wear, a little less grip I am currently running Federal 595RS, cheapest of the bunch, grip is very good, they are on my daily which sees a track at least once a month and have lasted for nearly 6 months now, and still have more than 1/2 tread left Best bang for buck, especially for street driven car IMO

definately, for starters once you been playing a while, than worry about getting bigger rims for sliding (which also cost more to put rubber on, alot more)

17s is alot cheaper than 18s for tyres Most people change their rears for the track anyway... so just buy some nice rims for your car, and get some cheap pairs for the rear for drifting on

use gaffa tape to held in place, should work if they fit ok

welcome, thats why SAU is here... you will need to give them a paint code (repco), if its custom paint, you would be best visiting a panel beater/spray painter so they can match. If you are not sure if a wheel will hold the skirt in place, try resting it and see, the sikaflex wont pull the sides together unfortuneately. the space saver might be a bit light to do the job though, best way is to test (may be able to rest some bricks on the space saver or something until it applies enough pressure?) One last thing, get the black sikaflex, it sticks best

If you are not after a show finish, can I suggest you have a go at repairing yourself. To attach the skirts, buy some Sikaflex from your local repco or similar, use small amounts under the skirts where its lifting, then sit a spare wheel against it over night, or 24 hours if possible (weekend job). You can use rags to prevent the paint from being damaged by the wheel. NOTE 1 For the scratches and chips, get some touch up paint - you can go to your local panel beater and ask them to mix some for you - or if its factory paint, places like Autopro can make up 1L containers for around $20 odd (may be 40, its been a while since I bought some). Only use enamel, not acrylic. Just use a small paint brush (cheap disposable), and apply sparingly. you will be surprised how well it will come up - unless you are up close its normally very hard to pic touched up scratches. Start with the scrached under the skirts until you start to get a feel for the best way to apply. I think you will find with painters, you may have trouble getting a job done quickly. If you are having trouble, pm me, I will give you some details for a guy who does private jobs on weekends, and should be able to help you out good luck NOTE 1: when working with sikaflex, make sure you have some thinners or turps on standby to remove any that may go where you dont want it. Once dry, it can be difficult. Make sure you seal up the left over sikaflex very, very thoroughly, as once it dries, its for the bin. If you need to tool the sikaflex, just use salive on a finger and you can move it around without it sticking to your skin enjoy its fun stuff, but it works well.

I think the idea you suggest with the intercooler pipe wont have much effect - there is little heat transfer from the pipe to the charge air due to the pipe heat having a skin effect, the charge air moves too quickly through the pipe work to absorb much heat. If you want to cool your intake temps, perhaps try using a water/air intercooler, and instead of using water, use CO2, or even your aircon. I met a guy who shoe horned a VH45DE(TT) into a silvia, and was using the aircon through a water/air intercooler and claimed intake temps around 5 - 10 deg C, running 12psi - could make for some nice short pipework too.

19mm

bilsteins make really nice coilovers too

If you are just starting out in drift, I strongly recommend you dont go overboard on rear tyre size - the difference in grip between a 205 and a 235 is pretty noticeable. I would recommend going larger than 7" for the front, get some decent tyres on there, as front grip is really important - understeer is ugly Buy some decent rims for the street, get good rubber up front, and start out by just using stockies or similar for the rear, much, much cheaper, and alot easier for learning - until you get some decent skill, and your speeds increase, then a little more grip will help, this sometimes can take upto a year or two. good luck

I could spin up RE540s no probs with around 270rwkw (also a 3037) things that will help you get your power down, aside from tyres: - lock your hicas - get a mechanical diff, 1.5 way would be best for the street, 2 way if you are into drift You can fit a 9 inch rim with 255s without a problem, as mentioned before, Koya drift teks are cheap wheels which are reasoanbly light and look good. They make them in 17 x 9 +30 offset which should fit. Get some R comp tyres on there, you will still be able to spin them, but that is what the right foot traction control is for My pic of the R comps so far is Federal 595RS, excellent dry grip, not bad in the wet and wear very, very well (much better than RE540s or RE55s I have found) - and they are about the cheapest R comp you can get.

try it on an SR with aftermarket manifold - babow 2 clicks of the elbow has always worked for me, havent snapped a stud yet

I would challange anyone to get a torque wrench on some manifold bolts

remove brake caliper and disc Undo centre hub bolt loosen the 4 bolts holding the hub onto the upright (you dont need to remove the drive shaft) use a hammer and extension to hit the back of the bolts that secure the hub to the upright - working left/right, up/down until the hub is loose

its an easy DIY check this guide: http://www.westdrift.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412

aussie super street are different to the japanese ones D2 - I will NEVER use them again - very, very dissapointed