Steve

pm sent re: EBC

Hi Enrico long time no see... I will take one of the PT 100 die grinders off you, could you pm/post some payment details? sweet prices on some great quality tools there - hope they didnt fall off the back of a truck...

If you are driving an auto, its a common problem - and a good example of why a BOV is a waste of money let the shit fight begin

For anyone who has been wanting to give Drift a go, this would be a great opportunity... dont miss it more details on drifting are available at www.westdrift.com or www.wascc.com.au

both

Noise from the new timing belt? I have changed a few, and they never made noise...

is that both for $280? new or second hand? they are awesome pads, you'll love em

dont bother with stock pads (or bendix, green stuff etc), if you are after decent performance when being hard driven - cos they are garbage IMO, more designed for someone who wants to think they got great pads but dont know better, they are also dusty as hell and fade quite easily once you start driving hard. VisonR have a couple of different types of Endless pads in stock, around $240 (from memory) a set for SS-S, which will make you grin every time you touch the brakes. Excellent low dust street-light track work pad with great initial bite, 0-500deg C, aren't noisey when cold and wont destroy your rotors.

RE55s were way too quick imo - I only got around 1500km from them before they needed replacing Advan are ok, but they flat spot really easy RE540s were ok, but now they are no longer Toyo R888 seem pretty good, but I am not sure about how long they last Toyo RA-1 are also very good, but dont live forever Federal 595RS probably the best I have tried so far, dont have quite the grip levels of the Toyo or RE55s, but last ALOT longer - have done around 15,000km now, including some several hard high speed track work and they are still going strong. As one of the cheapest around, I reckon you cant go past them. The sidewalls are a bit softer than other Rcomps I have used, but nothing so bad as it has caused issues Federal FTW imo.

I think you miss understood where rev is coming from - he is the first one to scoff at 'peak power' heros

sweet, thanks for the info, was there any modification required apart from just wiring it up?

using the calculations on the page, 370cc injectors - divide by 10.5 to get the lbs/hr = 35.24 multiply by 0.8 (for 80% duty cycle) = 28.192 / 0.6 (BSFC) = 46.99 hp per injector x 6 = 281.94hp But this is for 370 cc injectors, now we know that 370cc is what the injectors flow at 2.55 kg, which is idle fuel pressure - at atmosphere the fuel pressure is 3.05kg and the injectors flow around 410cc/min at 1 kg boost, the pressure is 4.05kg and the injectors flow closer to 470cc/min now we have 470/10.5 = 44.76 x .8 = 35.81/0.6= 59.68hp per injector x 6 = 358 hp, getting close to the rough rule of cc size = hp at flywheel. hope that make sense

No valves or port work, stock head Yes, reset base timing, re-tuned gained a bit of power up top, but lost midrange. I didnt push the point too much, cos the tuner wasnt cheap (mick stanic, used to work for tilbrook and tuned John Munros 9 second GTR)

On my rb25, used HKS cams with cam gears - and they ended back up at 0 (HKS 3037 and approx 320rwkw) The tuner tried to tell me I was wasting my (his) time by experimenting, but I insisted - and paid. I once asked a japanese mechanic from signal where he would set cam gears with HKS 256/264 step one cams for SR and RB - he said he didnt bother, they were already set correctly and there was no gain to be had for a midrange/street/drift type application. The only time he uses cam gears if for drag application to optimise top end. A friend who had SR with 256/264 HKS cams and T518Z (drift car) found the same thing, fitted cam gears, ended up back at zero All the above are with regards to the latest HKS cam grinds, which were revised around 3? years ago??? I have been told by unverified sources that the older style cams had good mid range gains available from dialing in Would be good to hear what others have experienced with HKS cams

kg to psi, multipy by 14.5

The GTRS will comfortably support 250rwkw - this is real world, repeatable power on RB25. it has made up to around 300rwkw, that may be on a generous dyno though, but if you want 250rwkw, the 2530 is too small 250rwkw is an easy ask from a internally stock RB25 BUT do it safely, I made over 320rwkw with a stock engine, and it never skipped a beat (did do head gasket though). There are several others on here that have done the same, not to mention the dozens in japan. I agree with Black_Widow34, it may be time to look for a new mechanic if he is telling you he can get the sort of power he is quoting out of stock injectors? here is a link to an injector calculator http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET whilst I dont always thing theory is perfect in the real world, it does give an indication of what you can expect and FYI, nissan base fuel pressure is 2.55kg, most aftermarket injectors are rated at 3.0kg - so use these figures to get a guide as to what you will acheive with upgraded injectors remeber these figures are for FLYWHEEL, not rear wheel but the bottom line is, if you are going to believe/trust your mechanic, why are you asking these questions on here? and if you are going to believe us, why are you asking your mechanic? I really do think its time to find a different mechanic if you dont trust him, but that's me

370cc injectors are good for approx 370bhp, i.e. for every cc of an injector on a 6 cylinder car, it will support approximately 1hp at the FLYWHEEL I have seen many engines popped because people want to save money on injectors, end result, they buy a new engine, have to swap it AND upgrade their injectors. do it right the first time When you see a rating of a turbo, you must consider any other mods that have been included to make the power. The figure may be a little conservative, but the figure is a 'best case' scenario. It is much better to buy a turbo that will comfortably make the power you want, and have a bit more for later (if you want more) than to buy a turbo that will 'just' make the power you want in an ideal world. My 0.02c anyways The GTRS is ideal for the power you are chasing, can be stretched into the high 200s, and will fit in the factory spot no problems.

you should be running a BCPR, not BKR - the BKR is slightly shorter than BCPR, but it shouldnt make a huge difference 6 should be fine too if you run coppers, I would suggest BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm. It sounds like maybe your car has not been correctly mapped for cold start? it would be worth getting the tuner to check your injector correction at the colder temps, to make sure that is ok...

Split second have them for around $1450, similar price from J-shop what's this pillow ball mounts dont last 12 months on a street car - you have either used defective (poor quality) parts, or have no idea what you are talking about. I have pillow ball everything (that can be pillowballed) and my car gets thrashed hard on the track, including some decent offs, and the only time a pillow ball part hasnt lasted (ie, 6 to 12 months only) is when I bought cheap china garbage. Oh, and my car is daily driven. pillow balls wont last as long as rubber mounts, but rubber mounts are designed for comfort, not performance - and should last years on a street driven car - they have on mine.

The new OS twin plates (street variety) are bloody awesome, feels like driving a single, and will hold that sort of power no probs at all.

is it compatible with PFC? as I beleive the Bee-r limiter isnt?

GTRS2530? you mean GTRS? the 2530 would be a bit small for around 240+rwkw, replace your injectors, fuel pump and FPR. So many Rb25s go pop with that sort of power on stock injectors you will need to up grade your clutch (if its manual) For many hours of safe thrashing pleasure, dont go over 1.2 bar - keep the rev limit to around 8K rpm (above 8200rpm is very dangerous on stock head) front mount will be heaps better than side mount cooler for that sort of power. a split dump would be a good thing get a decent ebc The intake pipe from afm to turbo has heavy guage wire reinforcing, it wont collapse like RB20 do, doesnt hurt to change them, but not essential. fit a pod, do the right thing and sheild it plus CAI, otherwise it would be a step backwards imo. (apexi pods cost $98 form a sponsor on ns.com, bolt straight up and flow very well - as well as clean well)

what heat range plugs are you using?

regular knock of 90? get it looked at I would start with checking compression, spark plugs, fuel pressure (fuel filter, fuel pump), AF ratios

dont have a mechanical diff do you?