Steve

Just for Dean, got this in e-mail: Real men of the world, stand up, scratch your arse, burp, and yell "ENOUGH!" I hereby announce the start of a new offensive in the culture Wars, the Retrosexual movement. " The Code: A Retrosexual man, no matter what the women insists, PAYS FOR THE DATE. A Retrosexual DEALS with IT, be it a flat tyre, break-in into your home, or a natural disaster, you DEAL WITH IT. A Retrosexual not only eats red meat, he often kills it himself. A Retrosexual doesn't worry about living to be 90. It's not how long you live, but how well. If you're 90 years old and still smoking cigars and drinking, I salute you. If you are still having sex, you are a God. A Retrosexual does not use more hair or skin products than a woman. Women have several supermarket aisles of stuff. Retrosexuals need deodorant and shaving gear - that's it!! A Retrosexual does not dress like a homeboy with baggy pants that look like he's shat himself, or with a gay chain from pocket to pocket. If wearing a hat, wear it correctly - not on the side like a top bloke. Blokes and necklaces (unless you are an Australian fast bowler) are out! A Retrosexual should know how to properly kill stuff (or people) if need be. This falls under the "Dealing with IT" portion of The Code. A Retrosexual watches no TV show with "Queer" in the title. A Retrosexual does not let neighbours screw up rooms in his house on national TV. A Retrosexual should not give up excessive amounts of manliness for women. Some is inevitable, but major reinvention of yourself will only lead to you becoming a handbag carrying little puss, and in the long run, she ain't worth it. A Retrosexual is allowed to seek professional help for major mental stress such as drug/alcohol addiction, death of your entire family in a freak BBQ accident, favourite sports team being moved to a different city, favourite dog expiring, etc. You are NOT allowed to see a shrink because Daddy didn't pay you enough attention. Daddy was busy DEALING WITH IT. When you screwed up, he DEALT with you. A Retrosexual will have at least one outfit in his wardrobe designed to conceal himself from prey. A Retrosexual knows how to tie a Windsor knot when wearing a tie -- and ONLY a Windsor knot. A Retrosexual should have at least one good wound he can brag about getting. This does not include males who have had cosmetic surgery. A Retrosexual knows how to use a basic set of tools. If you can't hammer a nail, or drill a straight hole, practice in secret until you can -- or be rightfully ridiculed for the wuss you are. A Retrosexual knows that owning a gun is not a sign that your are riddled with fear, guns are TOOLS and are often essential to DEAL WITH IT. Plus it's just plain fun to fire one off in the direction of those people or things that just need a little "wakin' up". Crying. There are very few reasons that a Retrosexual may cry, and none of them have to do with TV commercials, movies, or soap operas. Sports teams are sometimes a reason to cry, but the preferred method of release is swearing or throwing the remote control. Some reasons a Retrosexual can cry include (but are not limited to) death of a loved one, death of a pet (fish do NOT count as pets in this case), loss of a major body part, or loss of major body part on your Holden ute. When a Retrosexual is on a crowded bus and or a commuter train, and a pregnant woman, heck, any woman gets on, that retrosexual stands up and offers his seat to that woman, then looks around at the other so-called men still in their seats with a disgusted "you rude pricks" look on his face. A Retrosexual will have hobbies and habits his wife and mother do not understand, but that are essential to his manliness, in that they offset the acceptable manliness decline he suffers when married/engaged or in a serious healthy relationship - i.e., hunting, boxing, shot putting, shooting, cigars, car maintenance and drinking piss with the boys. A Retrosexual knows how to sharpen his own knives and kitchen utensils. A Retrosexual man can chop down a tree and make it land where he wants. Wherever it lands is where he bloody well wanted it to land. Except on his ute--that would happen because of a "force of nature", and then the retrosexual man's options are to Cry, or to DEAL with IT, or do both. A Retrosexual will give up his seat on a bus to not only any women but any elderly person or person in military dress (except 2nd Lt's) NOTE: The person in military dress may turn down the offer but the Retrosexual man will ALWAYS make the offer to them and thank them for serving their country. A Retrosexual man doesn't need a contract -- a handshake is good enough. A Retrosexual man doesn't immediately look to sue someone when he does something stupid and hurts himself. We understand that sometimes in the process of doing things we get hurt and we just DEAL WITH IT!

I'm in, pm sent:)

Hi, Has anybody checked or know what the readings should be from a HEALTHY O2 sensor should be. I would like to know that state of mine. I was looking at mine, it reads 0.00V at idle, at cruise it jumps erratically between 0.00V and 0.8~V quite rapidly. I havent been game enough to check other than cruise and idle, as its a bit distracting trying to read the powerfc display whilst driving. My car is an R33 GTS, but if anybody has any info for any model skyline, please post up, either personal experience or workshop manuals, all is good. Cheers Steve

I remeber vaguely reading that the check engine light will flash out the codes? anyone confirm this?

what the?

You would be the first that I know of if you did it with 350, I have 320 with skinny little RB25 rods (ok different rod ratio, but still applies to some degree) and dont have a problem. Like I said, RIPS has 440rwkw+ running nos and no probs. Your engine will be quite tough with the right tune.

I dont want to total it:) OK, around 38K

It was stock when I started:)

Where to start, Ohlins sus, $1500 Exhaust 1 $1000 Exhaust 2 $750 (got $500 back for the first exhaust) Exhaust 3 Swap High flow cat: $250 Cat out pipe: $150 Dump from stock turbo $350 Cooler $1500 Strut braces (front and rear) $400 Sway bars $400 castor rods $295 pineapples $150 hardmount bushes (cant remeber) front camber arms $500 endless brake pads $295 powerfc/hc/ebc $1950 extreme clutch $800 twin plate clutch $1200 turbo <$3k wastegate: $300 master cylinder brace $100 Wheels and tyres $2500 new tyres $350 each Custom pipe work $4000 front facing plenum $1300 cams $1200 cam gear $250 head gasket $450 catch can $200 K&N pod $200 fitted Z32 AFM $350 Cold air box and 4" CAI, cant remember Body kit $ 2k (abouts) Paint dash $100 Razo pedals - free Trust shift knob $85 EL guages $250 Fix speedo after fitting EL guages $150 Turbo time $220 Cs quickshifter $370 2 way diff $350 Sard Injectors $1k 044 fuel pump $380 Adj fuel press reg $150 Labour fitting cams, head gasket, plenum paint rockers covers $3800 (i know, dont like thinking about it) Boost guages $400 (I have a spare) oil temp guage $250 Oil cooler and fittings $600-$700 1/2 roll cage $350ish EDIT: FMIC kit ### oops yes I did EDIT2: Bride Brix driver's seat $800 Tune ups, probably 2-3K, and still going:) still need rear adj camber arms, hicas lock, mission mount, harder springs, 60mm pillar mount, 60mm guage holder. I think thats about it.

RIPS has had over 440rwkw from an internally standard RB30DET - seems to be quite reliable. They are ALOT larger than the RB25 ones - if you can break (bend) one with 350rwkw you will be doing very very well:)

Condition of the brake lines? bit hard to see from the piccy. Are these front only or front and rear? Do these have ADR approval? Please pm or email me [email protected] cheers

If you want someone to source it for a decent price, a couple of years back Per4manz turbocharging in WA were doing a kit for well under 10K with a GT35R. Might be worth giving them a call.

rattling? injectors?

I dont think it would be totally unreasonable, but you will have to do a bit of work to get it there - port, match the manifold, cams, etc - there are so many variables. If you are thinking of getting the 3037 new, I would suggest buying it in kit form, as you will save alot of money. The kits come complete with all the bits you need to fit them (well 99%). By comparison, I picked up my turbo cheap (new), my wastegate cheap (second hand), and with all the other bits, manifolds, gaskets dump etc, I could have just bought a new HKS full kit for the same price and saved myself months of stuffing around, plus I would have had a package of parts designed to work together.

Bl4cK32, if you are not too sure, go the 3037, you can always sell it later and get the GT35R if you want a bit more, and make sure you have good rubber on the rear and a good wheel alignment:). I do think a 0.82 housing will be a bit small, even 0.87 on the 3037 will be a bit small. Unfortuneately, it can be a bit hard to know exactly what you want as it is different for different people - but dont underestimate the torque of the 3L. SE-Rfornow, technically twins will spin up a bit quicker than a similar sized (as the two) single - but you have twice the cost involved, two wastegates, AFMs, dumps etc as well as problems of trying to fit two large twins on. The RB30 has a longer stroke, so not as friendly towards high revs. Also there are other problems with RB30 (nissan as opposed to OS Giken) and higher revs, but there are others that could tell you alot more than I, sorry. 2JZ has a similar stroke and bore size to the RB30.

Having said that, the 3037S will give an awesome midrange when tacked on a RB31, when they come on boost at WOT its a very nice thing:) If you want more, just go twins. Sorry, gotta dream.

Bl4cK32, I am with SK and RS500 on this one. I have seen the GT35R produce some very good results with a 2JZ in WA, I would think for an RB31, you wonldnt want to go much smaller. I dont think a 0.8 housing will be big enough either. If it were my engine, I would go the 1.06, esp as you are doing head work and match porting. I find with 0.87 on an RB25 (no port work, not matched) it really isnt too laggy for the street. Boost starts just on 2000rpm, although it really doesnt kick until close to 4000rpm, but it does pick up the bottom end/midrange enough that it feels quite lively, more so than it did with the stock turbo. Remeber also that you have a MUCH torquier (if there is such a word) engine, and you will find the bottom end/midrange is fine for putting around the street. Lastly, when I had a 0.61 housing on mine, it was too small and meant that I could only run low boost on the street or the car would go sideways at the most inopportune times - like heavy traffic. Not fun. With a larger housing, throttle control is excellent. You can run higher boost and control it with the right foot, not on/off as it is with too small a turbine housing. At the end of the day, it will be a nice package which ever way you go, I just think anything smaller than a GT35 may be selling the potential a bit short - you have a tough engine there by the sounds, enjoy it.

D1 Garage can get them in - they were alot cheaper than BD4s last time I bought genuine HKS stuff.

If it is a bit too on off for your liking, you can get an extended fork for the clutch. Only downside is you have to drop the box to fit it:(

Actually R32 owners are lucky, HICAS locks are plentiful - you should try and source one for an R33....

Just fit a hicas lock - NP

DICKY, I dont see it would be a major problem, the stock RB25 manifold has a split outlet. I think the main thing is to have the gasses merged properly before they hit the turbine housing.

D1 is getting a promo girl, poor thing, it wont be very warm with what she is wearing...

COPYME, its a petition that is supporting an attempt to get modified car friendly reforms in place. MADGT4, seeing as you work at Viva Garage, any chance you would be able to put a copy of the petition at your work?

no that was one of signal's pro D1 drivers, but they wont be able to make it due to other commitments by the looks:(