Mick_o
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Posts posted by Mick_o
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On 30/03/2018 at 9:16 PM, WantGTR said:
Perhaps do a bypass?
Hmmmm trying to think where I've heard this suggestion before??
But apparently it wasn't "a good idea" ??
"Nah a surge tank will be easier" ???
If she's not setup right all the maths in the world won't help you dude.
Just listen to Paul f**k ya! His system is PROVEN to work at power levels that far exceed yours and probably his too!
He basically handed you the formula for a million kw setup but you don't listen? DUUDE FARK!
The recipe ain't cheap.. But do it once! Gunna be cheaper than f**king around redoing shit! Or potentially costing you your motor Yeah?
Piggy has given you a recipe THAT WORKS! FOR FREE! It cost him a fortune and took alot of research and advice from some of the smartest kents in the game to aquire so Why argue? Just do it!
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Thanks! It is a brilliant car. Kind of a shame to see it go. But it my evo needs to take it's place in the shed.
Bump for a great economical daily driver with a bit of zing and great fuel economy!
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31 minutes ago, Lithium said:
Surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but the original post that video is from specifically mentions that it's during tuning - ie, that's not a full power run. I'm not sure why they didn't show an "all in" run, or say what the final power was but the implication from the guy whose car it is has very much been that this isn't the power it's capable of.
Interesting..... Wonder why the secrecy? Kind of a bit dumb to post a vid like that then hide the results?
Maybe it's a Skola tune? ?
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Sadly I'm gunna be a negative Nancy on this 1. Sounds like it was in 3rd gear for a kick off lol 780hp at 99mph. The run was barely a few seconds long. (Which could be operator getting scared of it jumping outta the dyno) so possibly a + not a - there...
Also it's on a dynojet so you can literally pull 15% off those numbers "for straya dyno figures" so 780hp is more like 660whp on our shores. So it's a sub 500rwkw result from a set of 985kw snails?
Would love to know what fuel and boost that was on!
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Bump!
Get this shit out my shed!
PLEASE!
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Up for grabs is my 2014 SSS Pulsar this car has EVERY mod con available Awesome Xenon headlights, reverse camera, Bluetooth music streaming and phone calls, dual zone climate control, keyless entry, push button start, iPod connectivity, leather interior, sat nav the works!
I'm the second owner of the car, the car was originally from Cardiff (North West of Newcastle) just over 2 years ago now with 54K on the clock. All highway kms verified by the sat nav the car had been all through Queensland and Byron Bay. I drove 3 other SSS' before purchasing this 1 as it by far went the best out of all of them.
Log books are all up to date & I have serviced the car every 10K. Factory calls for 15K service intervals but I believe this is too long.
This car returns great fuel economy I recently drove to Forster and back and returned an average fuel consumption of 5.98L/100km and running around town I get around 7.1-7.4L/100km for a car with 140kw it's unreal! Best of both worlds!
Apart from a K&N panel filter the car is stock as a rock. The car is in mint condition inside and out. The usual stone chips etc but otherwise near perfect. Car is also freshly serviced.Car has reg till June. Only selling due to company car and gettingthe evo back on the road soon.
Car has 89K on the clock
$15Kono
Contact Mick on 0423089277
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Thats a stout little 2.7 mate! Well done!
Bet the car feels worlds apart from old 5s?
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1st results in I've seen/heard of ?
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1 hour ago, gzro said:
Would a 0.92 ar work on stock displacement? Plus vcam?
Really reluctant to build a 2.8l engine when the current engine is still healthy, current engine is <15k after rebuilt..
Theres been 6 votes for the 8374 mate take the advice.
Its a beast of a turbo!
.92 is fail on pretty much most EFR's & you'd also find going .92 and v cam you probably wouldn't be able to swing the intake cam a whole lot due to the turbine choking.
8374/1.05 & V cam is an absolute killer combo on a 26! Make 450+kw and be getting your face peeled off by 4000rpm.
It will make 100+kw more than your current setup and will be on sooner, power delivery will be much more linear and there will be alot more of it everywhere.
How much more could you ask for?!
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Bout time their premium ecu done something that didn't require another additional cost or box to mount and wire up!
Correct me if im wrong but even the plug and play haltech for GTR requires an add on box for factory oxygen sensors?
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Bout time their premium ecu done something that didn't require another additional cost or box to mount and wire up!
Correct me if im wrong but even the plug and play haltech for GTR requires an add on box for factory oxygen sensors?
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As GTSBoy said ditch that silly rear housing mate thats WAY too small for a 35R! Choking it chasing "boost response" is madness! Just because you maybe making boost sooner doesn't mean you will be making more power sooner. Biggest internet fallacy EVER! .82 minimum for a 750hp turbo.
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1 hour ago, burn4005 said:
I think you're going to have trouble with the excedy carbon triple on a 9180. according to here:
https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-hyper-carbon-series/g-50059.aspx
its only rated to 568 ft lb. (770Nm)
the ORC1000F triple is rated to 980NM
the coppermix competition twin is rated to 950NM
and the OS Giken R3C is rated to 1050ft lb (1400NM)
Know you'r only quoting claimed figures but a nismo coppermix won't cop 950nm. 2 people i know have killed them with around 750nm.
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3 hours ago, burn4005 said:
this is a massive thread dig but thought it was worth posting, I've been trawling through the Emtron KV8 ECU options and the HKS Vcam is supported under closed loop PID cam control. no Valcon control box required.
has certainly piqued my interest in the setup considering HKS has price-cut the V-cam package from what it used to cost. (looking at about $4k AUD these days)
Plug and play emtron will run V cam let alone KV8 ?
No silly haltech boxes needed either ?
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24 minutes ago, gzro said:
Great. I hv the same! What clutch are you using at the moment?
My main sport is hill drives. I am currently running a pair of gtss and looking at upgrading to efr9180. it is a 1.05... one of my mate has a stock engine with efr8374. it has a 0.92 without the actuator. Tuned to 1.2bar and the car is great.
My current engine has poncam b, tomei rods and cp pistons (9:1). the engine runs great so i am very reluctant to rebuild it. As i am into hill drive, my main concern is response from the 9180.
Do you of a dyno overlay to share? And maybe a vid of how the car goes?
If you are after a hill climb car a 9180 wouldn't be a great choice in my opinion. Sure its gunna make gobs more stick but itd make it bit of a handful and hard to punt through the tight stuff! An 8374 1.05 is where its at i reckon. More than enough grunt to satisfy any mortal man but still responsive enough to be a blast through the hills.
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Haha old mate pussy'd out in the passengers seat! ?
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1 hour ago, Piggaz said:
74% mate ?
I stand corrected lol. Ignore me! Im just making shit up ?
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What a beast the 8374 is! Even on an old 1.8L looks like shit gets serious around the 5K zone!
Id imagine itd be a bit doughy in the lower gears but considering its a 79lb snail it doesn't look too shabby at all!
Plus there is the EFR magic thats not seen on the dyno so it probably drives better than the sheet makes it out to ?
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The odds of having a perfectly seated gate on a divider plate are very slim particularly with the expansion and contraction a manifold will go through with such a large range of heat cycles.
Its gunna pass gasses between pulses that are meant to be split and create pressure differences between each side of the manifold.
The divider plate in the wastegate line is usually a piece of sheetmetal plate welded into a piece of pipe or an elbow which probably isnt completely seal welded all the way through isn't gunna last long in that environment. With a few tack welds holding it in its place its destined to break those welds and end up somewhere it doesn't belong.
Yes i know I'm being picky and its only "my theory" but i think it poses too many flaws to an optimised twin scroll set up and also jeopardizes the reliability and generally speaking eliminates issues within your setup.
In all honesty if you can afford to buy a nice twin scroll manifold and a split pulse housing turbo SPEND an extra grand on the extra gate, some AN fittings and fab work hooking another gate up... If you can't "afford it" be a good lil saver and hold off a few more weeks till you save those extra bucks for a twin gate setup!
Reality is its probably not even a grand when you consider the cost of 1 big gate vs 2 smaller gates and the potential time and money saved on dyno time etc.
When you're paying $120+ an hour for a shop to work on your car that "money saved" on not buying that extra gate can soon take a backwards turn.
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Sorry to hear about the big head f**k dude! But as said above. Ditch the snails mate. Put 1 nice 1 on there and completely change how the car drives from Idle to redline ?
Leave it in pieces till you can afford a manifold and the right size snail to suit your application.
Again as some of the boys have stated and as you've experienced for yourself its A NIGHTMARE so when going to all that effort go for a power/ increased driveability upgrade while you're losing patience, the skin off your knuckles and hours of your life on those nasty ass twins! Swap to 1! Never look back and never deal with your current situation AGAIN! ?
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But make exceptions for the -5s?