Sleepy_R34

For Sale/Swaps 1993 R32 GTR Forged bottom end Cp forged pistons ARP rod bolts ARP head stud kit ACL race bearings Eagle H-beam conrods Garrett -9 turbos 262 cam gears 1000cc injectors Turbo smart fuel reg PWR intercooler HKS oil cooler Exedy twin plate clutch (car now has Exedy heavy duty clutch but can through in the twin plate, still more then half left in it) Turbo smart fuel regulator Tuned at Godzilla Motorsport made 380awhp on 18psi Power fc 2wd/4wd switch Still has aircon (just needs regas) Car now has v35 skyline rims with brand new tyres. Comes with 5 months rego and can organise RWC Mainly looking for swaps for FG xr6t or $16000 Located Northside Brisbane

Okay I've done a bit of a search, after looking at where the breather is, it is right beneath the bushing that has oil on it, so I am imagining the oil is squirting onto it, but can the oil really squirt out that high? If it is the breather, what are my options? I read that sometimes dirt can keep it open, so maybe give it a good clean. Over filling? If so how do I know what the right amount of oil to use is? or do i just leave it, as it is sort of doing its job? I would prefer to stop the leak though haha

So I recently bought a R32 GTR and noticed a leak from the back. Popping my head under the car my first thought was the diff as the whole finned area was saturated, but looking a bit closer it seemed it might be the hicas dripping onto the diff. After jacking it up, it seems the leak is coming from just above and in front of the hicas bar. I took a video which might be easier then explaining, can anyone tell me what part this is and how I fix it?

bump

2,999.00

Negotiable on price, throw me some offers

bump

Selling GENUINE RAYS Nismo GT4's 19inch Fronts - 8.5 +25 Rears - 9.5 +30 Includes Tyres $3500 (open to swaps +cash my way anything jdm and 17 or 18" Located Coomera

Wow this makes me feel really bad for not seeing this ad sooner, I was willing to come from Brisbane to pick the car up straight away. Might have been able to save the old girl to live a few more years. At least insurance came through. Glad no one was injured (I hope not anyway)

Hey guys, This is a neat little club going on here and I've decided I would like to join it! Need a little advise before I get there though. Obviously number 1 issue for most people is money, so I have 15K to achieve my 300kw dream (including price of car) I've found an r32 with S1 Rb25 conversion with following mods already on it Engine: HKS EVC 3 Nistune ECU Front Mount I/C with hard piping kit 3" Turbo back exhaust, high flow cat Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump Gearbox: RB25DET Gearbox Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Custom Tailshaft to suit new gearbox Standard Differential Suspension / Handling: BC BR Coilovers Cusco Fixed Upper Camber Arms -3 deg Hardrace adjustable Rear camber arms Hardrace adjustable Rear traction rods Rear Adjustable toe arms with Lock bar Front R34 GTR disk brake upgrade Price of car is gonna set me back (9-10K based on negotiations and is also the reason for this exercise to see if buying the car is worth it for my goals) Based on what the car has I think it covers all the odds and ends that aren't directly related to power but is needed anyway, so the rest of my budget can go on go fast bits With 5/6K left my shopping list to get me to 300kw is: GT3076r low mount kit - $3200 (could go GTX instead for $200 more...undecided) Xspurt 1000cc injectors - $775 (same price as 750's, figure why not) Z32 AFM - $150 - $200 Turbo Smart FPR 800 - $270 Tuning = $1000 (guessing) Total = $5500 I don't think any of that is over complicated to install myself but have obviously budgeted for professional tuning. Now...is there any holes in my plan, anything that will have my hopes and dreams come crashing down on me? I have read a good chunk of this thread and based on other results I don't think I would be far off. I have not purchased or made a final decision on this particular car, so if this combo will not work I will explore other options, so suggestions are welcome I have been through the rb25 turbo thread and this one so I know there is plenty of info out there, i'm not trying to get someone to do the work for me, but it would be nice to get an outside opinion on my plans to either set my mind a bit more at ease or prevent me from making a mistake. Thanks!

Bump, still up for sale, need to downgrade so open to swaps but cash is preferable

I'd have to recommend Hostgator for webhosting, i spent many hours researching and its unbelievable at how many bad hosts are out there, its a bit more then $2-3/month, i think im paying $11, but come on, thats about the price of a macca's meal, for peace of mind that your website is in good hands! Also beware of cheaper hosts, who hide the fact that you have to pay extra for any useful features. To answer the question about e-commerce. There are plenty of e-commerce solutions out there at the moment, magento, zen-cart etc, but the problem is you have to build your website up using that cart, you can't exactly just "add" it to your existing website. If thats okay with you, then you simply have to do a shopping cart search in google and you will have plenty to choose from. If you are like me however and really just wanted something that you could add into your own website, go do a search on Ecwid, it took me hours of searching to stumble upon it, and its the only solution for what i was looking for and its great, and its free.

I gave in to peer pressure, and the skyline now has a pod filter Its a black 3A Racing one. Looks good and now you can hear the turbo singing like an opera singer

throw me some offers guys

I had this same problem shortly after buying my R34, for me it turned out to be a faulty traction control unit (not very suprising based on the TCS and SLIP lights, but did take me a while to diagnose as i was also reading everywhere about the coilpacks being the problem) that i replaced for $70, so you might wanna check that before spending a few hundred dollars on new coils Incase you aren't familiar with the set up, the r34's basically have two throttles, one control with your foot, and another throttle just before that(you will see a motor attached to the side of the pipe, just open your bonnet and it stares you right in the face, this is your traction control). The second throttle is always wide open, when your traction control kicks in it will close this throttle, bogging the car down, making wheels stop spinning. When you start your car, you will notice the lights only turn on a second later, thats because when you start the car up, your traction control does a check where it will close and open the second throttle to make sure its working, in my case, the throttle was just staying open signalling that its not working correctly and throwing the lights on. Now as you can imagine, its not actually the throttle thats faulty, its the motor controlling it. Some people say that this motor can get sticky as the grease and all that inside of it gets old and dirty, and that a good cleaning and fresh lubrication can fix the problem. At the workshop I went to i was fortunate enough that they just happened to have been working on another r34 where they actually just removed that guys traction control, so i called him up and grabbed his and just replaced the motors as it seemed like an easier option. So in other words, if you know someone with a working traction control unit, just take it off, unplug your cable and plug the cable into his, and you will quickly see if the lights go away or not. It could well be your coilpacks, just thought i'd share that it could be an easier and cheaper fix to the problem. Hope this helped

Price Drop, $18 000

Bump, i'm slightly negotiable with swaps, so show me what you got

The car was imported from japan with this cluster, so it would be very hard to tell its true km's, but having a look at the condition of the interior you'd be able to see it couldnt be very far off, the previous owner also did a full 100K service just for peace of mind

Bump

Item for Sale: 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 Gtt Description: R34 turbo, manual, coilovers, catback Location: Bray Park QLD 4500 Region: QLD: Brisbane North Odometre: 80,000 kilometres Asking Price: $19,000 Firm Reason for Sale: Too clean and well looked after to track it. Extra Information: I searched hi and low when i was in the market to buy and this was by far the cleanest and well looked after R34 I could find. Previous owner was the first owner in Australia and I could tell he took great care of the car, and once he was convinced that i would take the same level of care with it he agreed to sell. This car is an absolute dream to drive, it is my daily and it drives fantastic in traffic, highway, around corners, has great power down low so that you aren't always gearing down in slow traffic. Some specs: Genuine 300km/h Nismo Dash Aftermarket Panel Filter 3" Fujitsubo Catback exhaust with 4" Cannon (has a great note to it, nice rumble, not too loud) Tein Fully Adjustable Coilovers - Professionally lowered to exactly 100mm - Handles like a dream Skyline 350 GT Wheels wrapped in Michelin PilotSport 3 tyres ($1200 for the tyres alone) Just about brand new (90%) amazing grip in the dry and wet Autowatch 3point Alarm/Immobilizer with Turbo Timer 3 Prosport gauges fitted into original gauge holder, fitted these myself and looks like its come like that from factory, not like some other poor attempts that i have seen. (oil temp/exhaust temp/boost - psi) oil sandwich plate was fitted to the car for the oil temp gauge, has another port if you wanted to put in an oil Pressure gauge, would be a 5min job. Sony Xplode 7" Touch Screen Head Unit - with wires running into glove box to connect Ipod Kicker DS600 6" 3 way speakers Hydraulic boot solenoids installed, can only be opened from remote Also had L.E.D brake light that isn't currently fitted to the car but will be included in the purchase. Car has been serviced buy Elite Racing Development with receipts to prove I have priced this car at what i believe is a fair value for what you will be getting, there are certainly cheaper R34's out there, but i invite you to go have a look at all of them and then come view my car, the car will speak for itself. As mentioned about, the price is quite firm, i am in no rush to sell the car, and the only reason i am selling it is because i want to get some drift/track time in and i would rather buy a car more purpose built then wreck such a clean example of a R34, so i am open to swaps, like a say, something more geared towards drift/track work, something with some decent power, i'll definitely take a look, only interested in another import, straight swaps or swaps with cash my way, unfortunately i don't have money to put towards a swap. If you have any questions, send me a PM, i am on here daily, if you want photos of anything specific just let me know

Just an update, the issue has finally been fixed. Whitey at EFI figured out that the actual traction control unit was faulty, it was no longer doing its start up sequence of closing and opening the throttle which then threw the lights up. Was lucky enough to have another r34 in the workshop that just took his throttle body/tcs off to install a forward facing plenum, gave him a quick call and agreed to let it go for $70 I ended up just switching the traction control motors (instead of the whole throttle body) was fairly straight forward, some of the screws are hard to get by, and have to be careful not to strip the old things, but other then that, no dramas Anyways, i just thought i'd share, if you are having the same problem, might be worth your while to check if this is the problem before you go fork out $500 odd dollars for some new coilpacks which is the most common suggested fix out there.