teka

KamikazeR33 The mechanic, can do it , but if you just had the clutch done I would not worry about it, because u will have to drop the box out again

what car is it??

I've got it as well, it is aftermarket I dare say NI5MO's is as well, there a lot of different kits out there so you'll just have to have a good look at yours.

It may of not been greased when you got your clutch replaced, it's not always as serious as it sounds, they do tend to get a little noisy, if you have not had your clutch replaced get it done (the thrust bearing) then, besides you will no when or it is about to seize.

Sounds like a thrust bearing

Thanks for the info guys, if you do remove the compressor yourself can you just bolt up the new one and get it gassed up or as GTS-t VSPEC do you have to get it flushed?. Or should you just leave it up to the air-con people blind_elk I agree on 40c heat

I've recently found out my air-con compressor is seized , just wondering if any one knows weather the AUS model RB motor used the same compressor or what other compressor is interchangable with it Thanks

lower seals, and around windows seals (front and back), boot and petrol filler

The stones there are shocking there at the moment I'm dodgeing that area at all costs, went there yesterday

you will definetly know if your four wheel drive is working, lots of revs on releasing the clutch, and in the wet:D torque gauge when working react's quite quickly

I've used brake cleaner on GTR AFM's works great, lot of black crap came out.

"Come down is a bitch" Not of you went to summadayze:) , crowd was a bit big through and the bloody rain, but all in all a good day, still in recovery mode

Welcome won't be as good as it was at the docks, , Summadayze looks like a go'a as well:D been good every year except for the rain last year, first year costed $10, now $65:eek:

my brother runs 1.2 bar reliably

he might of ment your alternator, rectifier? Good batterys, ive got the 550CCA one they are very good.

Go just cars, allowed most mods, good price as long as no DUI record or major offences, and they are backed by AAMI?? my car is $1600

you would know if the waste gate hose came off, you would hear the massive detonation that would follow from the infinant amount of boost available. Was the motor cold? my turbo is very load when the car is cold, or if the ambient temp is low just thought

sounds like leaking boost to me, that makes a squealing sounds, intercooler pipes?

Here's something that may interest some. http://www.xtremecarperformance.com.au/

It's funny that you say that, because I actually had this problem for about a year, then it got worse and the stereo would switch off when I put my foot on the brake along with the erratic idle I checked that bat and alternator voltages to cut along story short it ended up being a voltage drop between the alternator and the batt, I ran a new cable, fixed

torque wrench is always a good idea:) , and all the torque settings, timing etc, I would get someone to help you that knows there shit. Or you could get a workshop to do it. You would also want to confirm that it is the head gasket that is causing the motor to run 5/6, (could be coil etc, just an example)

"compression test(?) on radiator" Yep, they pressure tested the cooling system. Sometimes there can be a "slow leak" when water leaks into the combustion chamber, hence there is no water apperas in the oil (evaperated), Copper gasket take more compression, also thicker (generally), do a search for more info. As I said before the gasket will get NO better, only worse, you risk damage if you it gets worse. Compression test would come up ok, as would a leak down test.

"What sort of damage can be done to the engine from driving with a blown head gasket? " A LOT, depending if it gets as bad as taking water into the bores (bent conrods etc), which in it's current state it won't get any better. I would keep driving to a minimum.

"when 95% they are in RWD" Then there is still a little bit of drive? the front drive shaft is still turning, even if the electronics are not saying to transfer power. That's why it is apparently bad on the dyno (front wheels still. rear turning. front drive shaft turning, no power getting to front wheels, somthing is taking the slack? thats what I interpreted out of what I got told. I don't do it too often just in case it does **** something

For sustained periods it's not good to run it in RWD:burnout: (because clutch packs) I've also been told it's worse if the front wheels are not moving at all (dyno without removing front drive shaft)