cabramatta

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Fake AFM ? O_o never knew they existed

After reading countless threads, I have come to the conclusion that it should be OK to run it like this. I was worried that the ECU might have to always 're-learn' if it would completely turn off. Now it goes on when the ignition is on and there is completely ZERO draw on my battery when the car is switched off.

UPDATE: I cut the Orange wire coming off one of the green relays as per another thread on SAU and it has 0 draw now with power off. Question is, is it okay to run the car like this ? As it still runs and drives fine.. Just don't want to damage the ECU that's all.

So I have stumbled into an electrical problem. I have an RB20DET in an S13 which was originally a CA18. Everything electrical works fine. Currently running a CA18 alternator as the one on it was shit. Car starts and runs fine. Getting a reading of 14.2V when started and 12.9V when off (battery is 2 weeks old). However, I hadn't started the car in 2 days and when I went to start it, it didn't budge. Battery was reading 0.9V Hooked it up to a charger and charged it overnight. 12.9V again, car started fine, was reading 14.2V whilst on and 13.8 under load. Once again, drained overnight again. Now, I put a test light and between the negative battery post and the earth cable (obviously not seperated) and started pulling out the fuses one by one to find the culprit. Once connected, the test light was glowing showing load on the battery when car was turned off. I noticed when I touched the negative post with the test light connected to the ground cable, a relay next to the ECU would flick on. So I went through the fuses and when I removed the Eng Cont (Engine Continuity ?) fuse, the test light turned off so it seems the load is coming from there. I have read in other places that a specific orange wire on one of the relays off the ECU could be removed, anyone have any coverage on this ? I'm assuming this to be the culprit. There are 2 ENG CONT fuses, one is a 10AMP and one is a larger style fuse which is a 25AMP. The 25AMP fuse seems to be the one pulling the load. Thanks in advance.

I have the same thing happpen with my intank pump. You can hear the motor slowing down then picking back up. Is this signs of a faulty pump ? It's only a few weeks old.

It's painful enough driving the RB off boost lol. Can't imagine that through the whole rev-range. This kid has lost the plot lol. Keen to see the GTR diff and box setup.

resolder the joints.

Check your FPR, pull the vac line off it and have a sniff.. If it smells like fuel, then it's a faulty FPR. I had the same problem as you, but my issue was contaminated fuel.. Could also be a faulty pump. By the way, do you have a larger pump ? Say a 040 ? If so, they hate 1/4 tanks of fuel lol (well mine does anyway) and it surges on boost..

Do you have a blow off valve ? I blocked mine off which removed this problem, but along with that I also cleaned my coilpacks and siliconed them up. Regapped plugs. Open the AFM and check out the solder joints, if they're dry, then re-solder them. If it occurs in gear change (meaning no load) wouldn't this remove the chance of it being a coilpack issue ? Cooler piping, vac leaks etc.

Okay took it out for a spin, went around the block for about half an hour.. Hitting boost in nearly every gear, giving it a belting.. Temp went up to nominal, idle was nice and low and smooth.. No smoke from exhaust, no loss of coolant, no loss of power, no overheating, no smoke. What the f**k just happened ? :S

Thanks for that mate. Will take it for a drive tonight and keep an eye on the temps and report back. I've checked supercheap auto for that co2 tester but can't find anything on their website ? Thanks agian.

Okay, so I did the above (Option 1) but I didn't use that seal up stuff. I also loosened the alternator belt a bit (connects to water pump) as it seemed a bit tight. When I start the car up on cold start, the belt screeches for about 15 seconds then goes away once warm. I opened that 10mm bolt on the intake manfiold and a stream of coolant was coming out and sucking water from the reservoir at the same time. I also connected the piped from the valve cover to the turbo intake which wasn't connected before, so the PCV valve was venting to air and the hole on the turbo intake arm was blocked off. I also removed the plugs and regapped them to 0.8 (they were 1.1 before standard). The car idles a bit high (about 1100RPM) But it has stopped misfiring on idle (used to do that before I'm guessing from the plugs). The weird thing is, the car is no longer blowing smoke ? I didn't even drain the coolant again, I just kept topping it up with the motor running and made sure there was a smooth stream coming out of that hole from the intake manifold and it was sucking water from the reservoir at the same time so I'm guessing there is no blockages between them. The car isn't over heating and it's staying at abit above 1/4 temp (even at idle for 20 minutes~). I revved it up to 5-6k a few times and there is no smoke coming out at all ??? What's the go :S

Wow.. Thanks a lot for that response! I really appreciate the time put into it. I will give them a try today and let you know how I go. Thanks again mate.

Did you read what I wrote ? There's no oil in coolant and there's no coolant in oil.

To add to the above, took of the intake arm off the turbo and it smelt like coolant inside.. And it also looked like there was dry coolant on the turbo fins. It's a standard RB25 turbo

Hey guys I had drained my coolant today and when I put new coolant in and started my car, I had noticed that there was a lot of white smoke coming from the muffler. The smoke didn't stop even after idling it up to normal temperature. The weird thing is, it wasn't smoking the coolant drain + refill of coolant. It's only after I had filled up with fresh coolant did it start doing this. TO ADD; my coolant always goes poo brown, even after just driving for 30 minutes, it will go poo brown again from fresh green coolant. I did a compression test and got 137 137 137 128 126 137 I have read that a 10psi difference isn't something to be worried about. I don't have any specific tools or a leakdown tester on me but that will be the next option. After idling the car for about 10 minutes, I let the car cool down and opened the radiator cap and put in about 1 liter of coolant (assuming this is what I burnt as the coolant was up to the radiator cap when I flushed and filled it up today). Could this be a blown headgasket ? There are no visual leaks anywhere although there is a burning coolant smell coming from the engine bay, but from what I have seen, there are no leaks and it could possibly be from coolant that I might have dripped on the motor earlier today. Thoughts ? I have read somewhere that it could also be the turbo ? It's stock standard apart from: RB25 Turbo Walbro 255L fuel pump 3" exhaust Front mount

Can I get the part number for RB20DET gear plug filler plug and and drain plug please ? Thankyou!

Interesting.. Since the TPS is always set and doesn't change with the engines warmth.

Not sure if this has been posted before, while I was looking for the OEM Nissan part numbers for my gearbox filler/drain plugs for my RB20DET box, I came across this: http://nissan4u.com/parts/ It doesn't have any GTS-T's in there, but I guess it could help others.

No problem. I'm in search of the OEM part number for the plugs.

Anyone have the part number for the filler plug and drain plugs for the RB20DET gearbox ? Thanks!

Anyone have the part number for the filler plug and drain plugs for the RB20DET gearbox ? Thanks!

Looked around at a few shops to look for this socket: http://ultimatetoolco.com/ktc17mmsocket.aspx But I can't seem to find anyone that stocks these 'square' sockets. Trying to remove the filler plug on my gearbox, don't want to go at it with a wrench in fear of threading it. It's that top plug. Anyone know where I can grab a 4 sided 17mm socket from ?

Are these as easy as just unscrewing and screwing a new one on ?