HYBR3D

Hi all, I have a few parts for sale that I have decided not to use. I am located in Melbourne near the city.. 3146. Give me a txt if your interested. Thanks 0405426701 RB20DET Plenum. $600 uses standard throttle body, just need a longer throttle cable to fit. (its currently at my work getting a little alteration will add a photo later) Example of one fitted. Extended Throttle cable to suit RB20DET and fit up those front facing plenums $100 25MM wheel Spacers by Neo Tech. Mint condition, only used for just over a month $100 R34 R33 Rear King Springs. Just brought, I was told they would fit my R32 No way lol so re-selling. Also was told super low but I cant confirm that. Asking $50

And TBH if I had a lot of money and was on p's I would also go buy a flash expensive sports car and drive it around, and just take the risk. if i got caught I wouldn't make a big deal about it like tomic has. just accept its illegal and deal with it. Go pay my fine then jump in my 150k sports car hanging p plates out the window and drive off. This only a big deal because himself and the media have blown it up that way. Im sure there are a lot of rich kids with their flash fast cars on p plates. on another note. Orange and black/carbon looks sik and those m3's are dope.

Thats why this countrys gov is #ucked. In NZ he would be driving that thing all day with no dramas legit. You can own what you want when you want from was the age of 16. until last year now 18. (because of under aged clubbing and alcohol not driving reasons) I think this country's rules and regulations are all bull and people are suffering because of them and not just the p platers but people of all ages with all kinds of sports cars. Yes he should be setting an example and prob shouldn't of been driving it no different to any other p plater. but either way i still blame the useless government as much as tomic.

just ask around first, if hes a dodgy tuner he may say it needs one in order to get business ( i hope there arnt many around like that) also buy going to a top rated tuner that knows there stuff you know you are getting a reliable answer. The dyno sheet can say its safe and all honkey dory but the tuner could also say it has more potential. Like my one, its safe as houses, and has had a full tune a year or so ago by previous owner. But a new fuel pump its running a bit rich, and the tuner/s said it can and should be making a bit to a lot more from the power run. As im new to Melbourne ive read a bit on the these forums and Ben at race pace is the man to see. thats where im going for my tune.

the 290- 320 wkw is the common max power range in nz for evos before rebuilding and forging the engine. and 350 is prob the most common for a evo forged on pump. tho a guy has made the 400wkw on 98 pump lol he thrashes the crap outa it all day every day, not surprised its been in the workshop a couple times for repairs ha. i duno why he did this but hes a bit nutty lol <-- him trying to do Gymkhana lol it wasnt "closed off streets"

im not so sure about skylines, but with evos you can do a full tune with their factory ecu. Theres always a good reason for a tune and generally theres always going to be some improvement made. how much improvement and what and the cost is what you need to weigh up.... Is it running quite bad? usually you can tell when its time for a tune. Whats involved?? quite a lot of things actually but the basics are air fuel ratios, engine timing and boost. These things among others need to be set safe or be at safe levels or over time or a short time your engine will break or go boom. basically lol The cost varies a bit depending on- Tuners pricing, Dyno time, alterations made during process and dyno type. Ive done some research into getting a tune, as im also getting ready for a big day on the dyno, 2 days i think actually. The mechanic said it will be a day to alter the engine components like cams and fuel etc and full tune, then next day for cold start and road setup check. the price for the dyno tune alone is just under $1000 (not including installing cams and any mechanical work involved) $900 to $1200 is a pretty fair range to expect for a tune. One thing to note, a good tuner will only do very small alterations at the most. 9 times out of 10 they will save the setup, then wipe the whole ECU and start from scratch because they can never trust the current tune. However you could also do a Dyno run or Power run.. (I just did one recently) it will give you power figures obviously, and will also give the tuner an indication on how your cars running and then he can tell you if he can make more power or if its running bad and needs re tuning etc etc. only takes around 30 mins for a roller dyno and costs around the $100 - $150 mark this is only based on my experiences over a few years in the scene.

yea, the tuning company STM do not recommend going for this amount of power on a stock engine and the owner is aware of the consequence's. just a wait and see. he still need to learn to drag it and get used to the power lol see what happens.

How low do the springs on the standard shocks go roughly? Im just looking for some low rear springs, so keen for the super lows! ... tyrna bargan hunt lol sorry just really need to do full engine tune first and im in victoria

prob a dumb question, but would springs fit in a 32 gtst coupe? im picking no. just got excited when i saw super low .. hard to find!

lol yea duno, its built for 1 purpose only, apart from driving to and from work on occasions its something to keep an eye on. With some respect and tlc it could last a long time!

This topic isnt about a Skyline, but rather about another make, a smaller vehicle produced by Mitsubishi that has rolled out of the factory and with a few mods is now making a very respectable 458 kw atw's... (615 whp) I have talked to a few people around Australia in my short time ive been here, a Few tuners as well. There is alot of debate about what is good power, and what's possible and whats not. Quite recently I was having an argument with a tuner about power figures on cars. I just wish I could email him the info to rub it in his face. Well NZ's top tuning company Speed Tech Motorsport (STM) have had a little project going since late last year Project Haggis. A Evo 9 going for the Stock Block world record held by AWD Motorsport in America. I thought it was quite impressive power figures and thought I would share the info. Some will think pffft thats not much power, some will say wow thats alot and impossible... Heres the proof, enjoy Small doco before current tune: http://stmtune.wordp...project-haggis/ Facebook photo with tune info: http://www.facebook....&type=1

yea your right ^ i think any car that doesn't have hid from factory, having them fitted would be classed illegal so either way your screwed lol

yea your right ^ i think any car that doesn't have hid from factory, having them fitted would be classed illegal so either way your screwed lol

Rota have good hardened steel ones, I just brought some, look pretty mint and wont strip thread like the duraminium ones sometimes can. Im for Blue. sets the wheels off. and then valve caps. paint brakes and you will have a sleek ride

Looks like you have the very basic water injection kit lol, can only be a good thing just needs a tune with the new setup Jokes aside, is it possible the water is getting in to the coil packs? there is a big thread on vented bonnets and water issues brought up just recently and water getting into coil packs that was usually the main cause for problems.

A lot of new cars these days come out with 6000k HID standard. Im pretty sure thats the legal limit aswell anything above that is illegal for low beam anyway and at own risk. I put 8000k in my 32 for LB, im not to concerned about the visibility issue as much, they work a treat and light up signs and centre line mint. I just hope i dont get caught pretty much. They were pointing a little high like suwidji said, but i just adjusted the bulbs down and now they dont flash on coming cars. There is typically 2 or 3 screws in the headlight cases behing the headlight you tweak to adjust the bulb direction. Have a play around, its an easy fix. From what ive read, Nytsky is right, 4500 to 5000k is the best viewing performance range. I think higher like 6000k 8000k you see signs etc better.

Most people, well almost everyone in NZ pretty much run 2 hoses from the rocket cover to the catch can only. And the can has a breather filter on the top maybe 2 if needed. very basic and very easy setup. This is for RB 20, 25 and 26. basically because most people run custom front facing plenums on their nismos and there is no inlet/outlet valves on them for the return pipe anyway, also they have sometimes have custom intake pipes with no hose inlets so because of those reasons its just the way its always been. for all cars actually, mitsi, subi nissan etc etc. Im not saying its right because i dont really know what is the "correct" setup is or if there even is one but its just the way it is in NZ. But because there apparently is some stupid rules in this country over this issue Im picking that Douse's latest setup would be the best way to go by. Heres an example of a typical setup in NZ

Sweet, Thanks man! Problem solved

Im using castrol edge 20w50, Castrol is good stuff I think. I once used Fully Synthetic castrol edge oil in my old evo 5, it started blowing smoke and using oil so it must of been getting past the piston rings being like water. so had to resort to thicker semi synthetic to fix the issue. (had around 90 ks on clock) as for my R32, what im using is prob a bit thick because the oil press gets way up there! it has a rebuild and forged engine (a few years ago) so im thinking of trying fully synthetic in it instead. I guess what im saying is use fully synthetic oils for newer fresher engines and semi synthetic for older used engines. and choose the weights accordingly for how you use your car

LOL far out ^^^ I guess im not surprised, its an effort just to lift it haha. even the cheap common (heavy) cf bonnet would be a big weight saver. Still im after the vents for cooling rather than the weight purpose. maybe 1 day.

The hose gets vacuum when engine rev'd from inlet manifold, so not having the vacuum hose attached wont affect it? I had a crazy thought that it regulated the pressure in the fuel tank via the cannister, so without the hose attached the fuel tank would build pressure and explode... its a crazy thought but it was freaking me out haha!

]Not sure where to post this but heres a diagram, ive been looking for one, and im sure alot of other people have also. Sorry for re posting if theres already one on here. as title states.

Ive found coolant dripping under my car, its hard to see where its coming from, but im suspecting the hose under the manifold, the clamp looks a little wet. not looking forward to replacing that hose if it is seems like a common thing for the old 32's must be around that time that they all start breaking

Hey im just wanting to know if the part i broke is important and whether it matters if its connected up or not. I broke the little black nozzle on the top valve of the black canister, I drove home today and it seemed to drive fine, im not sure whether it matters if its connected of not, if its important i guess i need a new one. Please have a look and tell me what you think. Cheers

So I played around with it again today, after my drive home I found out my heater doesn't work at all, it only blows outside air temp, not hot or cold no matter what I set the temp to neither A/C or normal fan, which is a bit of a bummer lol. Also the diagnosis said (under cover) flashed 25 so dis regard that, everything else was fine then the temp sensors said 26, 38, 37.5, 37. So I think all my sensors are working properly. Time to see the mechanics and get them to look at it then go to the A/C repair shop.