HYBR3D

Hey all, I used my high boost today for the first time in a while, Usually I run 15 psi as my high setting but I felt like opening her up a little so I ran 23 psi. I came into 3rd then boosted all the way through the gear, nothing out of the ordinary. Heres the problem, Car got up to 1.5 bar, then once hit it, it dropped down to 1 bar or so then back up to 1.5 and so on repetitively. So its not very stable to say the least. But when I run 1 bar as max boost like usual its always 100% stable. I am using the Blitz SBC ID controller and im pretty confident its hooked up right. (Solenoid tapped into the hose that goes to the black cannister by headlight) The controller is reading directly from the plenum. Could it be possible the standard R32 GTST bov cant hold that sort of pressure and is leaking? Or should the solenoid have its own direct connection? I can understand it being unstable with a couple psi but a whole 7 psi fluxuating is pretty crazy Any ideas anyone? Cheers all

Same here that's exactly what I've been told. I brought some 100% syn 20w 50 amsoil for $80. I get 600kpa when cold on idol, and when warm it's usually 80-100kpa above revs. Eg 2k revs is 280kpa oil press (40psi). it's thinner than the 10w40 & 25w50 oils I have seen (cold) and my car rb20 seems really happy on it. It's the same as their race oil but AMS say it's good for 30,000ks in a new vehicle.

Yea that's what mike said, back in 2009? He also said he's developed a new setup over the years since (assuming its the w.g port and collector chamber) I think your right would be good for the perminant setup, but not so good if you wanted to change ex housing and setup. Either way I think mike sets the manifold benchmark.

I have the feeling its coming from the collector from the back side of the manifold. All his RB manifolds have WG ports coming out the side as this example below. Ill even ask mike sinco how this is set up eh? Heres his web site if you want to look at some examples http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/gallery

Ha my bad yea rocker. Yea I was mostly referring to the intake pipe as the PVC valve is closed once under boost. So most of the fumes will go through intake, intercooler all the way to tps.

I know rb's love the revs but on standard cams I thought otherwise. I've set my one to 7000 limit haha until the next tune anyways.

wholly!! 8500 rpm, talking about raping lol!! got cams????

Just curious why you didnt find ELF any good, I know alot of people that have used it over the years and they have all said really good things about it? the only down side was it was more expensive than castrols ones. If your going to buy castrol tho dont get the 5w30, get 5w-40 or 10w-60. as soon as the temp gets up to the max viscosity range limit, there goes your engine protection, and 30 isnt very high.

Well you are looking for a 10w-40 5w-40 which is $75 to $85. From my understanding and what ive been told is you dont need less than 10w as thats your cold oil viscosity rating and 10 is more than watery enough for Australia coldest mornings. (especially with %100 fully synthetic!) the second numbers represent your high temps, and i think 30 is a bit low, especially for a turbo, you really want at least 40 or even 50 would be good.just helps with protection when you go for that little blatt down the road hey and Australia gets up to some pretty hot days! I only know as much as what ive been reading over the last few weeks from the goods in oils page, but i went and priced out some AMSOIL which isnt the best of the best, but is is a whole lot better quality than main stream oils like mobil and castrol, and it was $90 for 5 litres and a Engine flush which is a pretty sweet deal if you ask me. Castrol used to be 50 bux for their best ones, the prices have sky rocketed over the years. Im just suggesting you should ask around for some other brands prices like Motul, AMSOIL, Redline Oil, Gulf Western, just to name a few. Thats what i did and it worked out for the better. Also as daunting as it it, have a quick-ish read through the "Goods On Oils" page. Castrol is an OK oil, its the best of the mainstream highly marketed oils. but it wont give as good protection, or even last anywhere as long as the better brands do. I just dont see why buy that when you can get better ones for the same price. Thats all i am meaning. it would be fine if you were only spending 40 - 50 bux for it.

Ive seen a few flock coated trims i think they look sweet, little furry haha like your standard trims, even evo trims look like they have been flock coated.. covers imperfection really well. good way to get a show condition interior the simple budget way rather then full custom re trimming. I suppose vinyl wrapping is fairly common as well like pvc fake leather. I have one door trim off and one trim on lol should attend to it sometime as well

I always thought Castrol was the bees neez but after doing some oil research on the oil topic here and going to an independent oil tester ive found out that castrol is just a marketing gimmick. You can get much better QUALITY oils for the same price. BP used to make some of the worlds best oils, now they dont, t they have brought Castrol instead, poured millions into marketing without a care for the product. Ive used it for a few years and its ok but I dont think I would buy it again. Not now that its price is very similar to the leading brands. Also its fully synthetic..... Fully Synthetic and 100% Synthetic are two different things. "Fully Synthetic" is again a marketing ploy... Theres 125 pages in "The Goods In Oils" topic LOL alot of it is junk but there are some valid points made and some very useful information.

Oil gets in there from your rocket cover, Im sure you are aware that the rocket cover hoses feed into the inlet before the turbo and also the plenum. Thus sucking oily residue from your engine into your intake system. After 20 odd years for a r32 anyway thats A LOT OF OIL! If you pulled your intake pipe off (assuming it hasn't been touched over the years) it will be caked in oily gunky grease. Pull your intercooler and pipe's off they will have oily residue in it throughout also. So naturally your TPS valve and plenum will also have oil in it. If its an issue consider a catch can. Its good to give your pipes a good clean out and de grease every now and then.

How much for the Aluminium intake pipe? Item 10 Cheers dude

The intake pipe, to suit the standard turbo and AFM?

Wheel spacers $80

the very first post is basically the best information here, only thing is its 10 years old, the oil brands have stayed the same but the oil quality hasn't. So going from what i over the last few hours, (yes and thats just scratching this topics list of pages ) If your looking for good branded oils these seem to be the top rated here, AMSOIL, Gulf western Oil, Motul and NEO with the 40000ks guarantee ftw ??? yea. Mobil has degraded itself over the years and so has castrol tho i got to wonder about castrol a little. And you want fully synthetic also looking for a 5w-40 to 10w-40 mixture, not to high as its a bit thick for the cold start-ups unless you will tracking or whatever. Thats the easy part, Finding oil distributors is the hard part

There are so many fabricators popping up all around NZ its not funny, there is some serious competition out there! Most of the stuff its not to bad quality as well. for that price I would give it a go regardless haha. I built up a drift car for my mate before I moved to oz, He brought a cheap stainless steel manifold to use on the RB25det i had to adapt it to fit his master power T70 and wastegate and heaps of other fab work but basically after over a year of some competitive drifting its still holding up strong. Even Jake Jones couldn't shake the beast to bits lol Sometimes cheap stuff may look crappy but will surprise you how long it lasts.

My one is forged and still sounds normal. Im not sure with skylines but with evos you can take out the spark plugs and see the piston head sometimes you can tell if it has forgees. Otherwise its a big gamble... IMO i wouldn't buy it without some sort of receipts or proof. it just sounds like a big dodgee deal to me, it may not be but im just real fussy and careful when im buying cars. if you treat it like a forged one and it isnt you will get a big ka-boom lol

LOL i just hope this operation kilowatt doesn't come to Victoria! But I would crakup seeing some guy say na bro I aint following you and just lock up and walk off...

Must admit the alarm feature that comes with the controller is quite handy, lets me know when my cars heating up more than usual, or when Im just creeping over 28psi

When i was there there was probably close to a million dollars worth of Skylines there, You know its a good workshop when you see quality cars getting worked on! Cant wait until I get my skidder finished up and tuned there!

Purple R33 playing around on the Monash, turned off at toorak. was pretty sacked with skinny wheels. Was nice GTR tho!

Using the wrong oil can cause oil consumption and blue smoke. fresh engines have good compression, and fully synthetic oil is good to use. where as more older engines that are a bit tired, thinner fully synthetic oil can get past the valves and seals and you get oil consumption and blue smoke. Check what oil you are using and its viscosity. You could try using semi synthetic if you are not already. And yes get a compression test. This exact thing happened to me in one of my evos in the past.

Do you know where the pressure switch is on the R32? In theory this should work without gas, if I test for power on the control side of the switch, i could bypass the switch like you said with or without gas to see if the compressor works. Then all i should need is a refill Im hoping its just the pressure switch. I dont know where it is tho

My pride and joy I wish I never sold!!! This thing is keeping me busy for the moment tho.