Shazz

Fuel system on hold

HKS adapters sold

HKS air flow less adapters sold pending payment

Bump

Sorry mate. i didn't hear from you for a couple of days so i thought you were no longer interested. my appologies

Havent been able to edit origional post so heres an updated list Aftermarket parts: 3Ltr alloy surge tank, twin bosch 984 pump and all lines with genuine speedflow fittings $600 Trust Greddy Airinx filters $150 HKS air flowless adapters $200 HKS GTRS Turbos with HKS heavy duty actuators (one turbo needs rebuild) $650 Fujitsubo Giken exhaust. 3" full stainless with front pipes $400 Sard fuel [ressure regulator with speedflow adapter fittings (used for 1 month) $100 GRID TS dancer 2. 4WD torque controller brand new & unused $200 Greddy radiator breather tank new and unused $120 HKS SSQ bov (pair) mounted on an alloy pipe (purchased second hand and haven't used them) $200 Standard partrs: series 1 coil packs $100 injectors x6 $150 RB26 long motor with inlet and throttle bodies still attached. no sump compression as listed below $1500 1) 160 2) 160 3) 155 4)160 5)160 6)90

It's off to the workshop Monday for a tune and go over, ill see if they have any thoughts on the issue

So it seems pretty good. However while its warming up and oil pressure is up around 6-8 bar it's still quite smokey. Is it worth putting a larger restrictor further down the line at the block and use say a 2mm restrictor

I changed to a banjo connection with a 1mm restricted banjo bolt. Seems to have cleared it up so far.

Oil filter relocator sold

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=22-491 A link to the pressure regulator

Ok so I have a built rb26 running a nitto oil pump with all the usual mods. I have just fitted a new pair of -5 turbos and under the instruction of the distributor I did not fit an oil restrictor to the oil feed line. The oil feed line is -4 braided and I use a 90deg fitting into the turbo not a banjo bolt. After starting the car and running it for 10 mins there is a slight bit of smoke out the exhaust on idle which increases greatly as the rpm rises. I believe this to be too much oil pressure to the turbos. I have been tossing between fitting an inline oil pressure regulator which is made by peterson. I like this as I have control at a valve like setup. Or inline restrictors. I know the inline oil restrictors is tried and tested, but is there a reason people don't use a valve like setup? If I run a restrictor does it need to be fitted at the turbo connection or can I fit it at the block? Any help would be appreciated

Hi guys, below is a few parts for sale that have come off my R33 GTR. All parts are located in Brisbane, QLD. These are the first items i could get to that are in storage, there will be more to come shortly 3ltr Alloy surge tank with twin bosch 984 fuel pumps, all braided lines in the pictures included. All fittings are genuine speedlflow, no chinese copies. $650 Trust Greddy Airinx air filters, had about 1 hrs use on the dyno only, as new $160 HKS air flow less adaptors. (replace your AFM when its no longer being used) a couple of scratches where they bolt to the air filter from the spanner. otherwise in great condition. $200 Oil filter relocator block with Speedflow male fittings -10. unkown brand, oil cooler it came with is pretty rough but ill throw it in with them if someone wants it. $60 also have hoses at an extra cost HKS GTRS turbos. one is damaged due to oil starvation the other appears to be fine. Suits a rebuild or someone looking to modify a pair Has HKS heavy duty actuators fitted. $700 Fujitsubo Giken exhaust. full stainless steel front pipes are 2.5" into 3" system rear muffler is titanium. I believe the cat converter has been knocked out. road legal DB level. has usual dents and scrapes. needs a good polish as muffler looks like it has been wire brushed. $450.00

yeah mate istill have it boxed up in the garage.

Any idea if this cooler setup will suit an r33 gtr?

item still for sale?

After all sorts of issues with the new motor not making power it turns out the bearing on the front turbo has let go. The car is used as a weekend driver, and with the occasional track day etc, i would love to eventually do some hill climb events. The engine specs are below, however what im trying to decide is weather to rebuild my HKS GT-RS turbos go for maybe a set of -5 (2530 i think?) or go single setup like a T04Z etc.... Engine specs: Eagle rods cp pistons greddy 264/9.1mm cams greddy valve springs external of motor: HKS manifolds HKS dump pies HKS GT-RS turbos Equal length stainless front pipe titanium 3.5" exhaust greddy intake kit greddy suction kit greddy intercooler Sard fuel rail 1000cc injectors surge tank and twin 044's Aem ecu removed air flow meters I have been reading through topics and it just seems to make me more indecissive. The origional plan was to build a 600hp @ the wheels gtr with a stroked motor. I still plan on building the stroked motor however for the time being this is how it is setup. I cant see why i wont make 500-550 hp with this motor, if the right turbo's are matched. I know a lot of people are against -10 turbos, however i have not had the car runnnig for long enough to get a feel for them. i do realise they are laggy, and are going to shuffle. will -5s shuffle? The ultimate question and im sure there wont be one difinitive answer rebuild, replace, or sell it all and go a single setup?

Problem solved!......well not solved but diagnosed. Turns out the front turbo has a shagged bearing, im thinking from possible oil starvation. explains why im now making boost but not as much power. Also why its shuffelling its ass off! so now comes decission time rebuild, replace, or go single........

Sorry I wrote it wrong. It's to relieve pressure from the sump. So basically I have 2 lines from the cam covers and 2 lines from the sump that run to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. So I should look at running a second can that is an oil air seperator then plumb that back into the turbo side?

Yeah it's been the same tuner all along

I've got a built rb26. I'm running a nitto pump 1mm restrictor in the block, sump baffles. Hi octane 3 stage cam cover baffle. Remote oil filter and 13 row cooler Cam covers have two -10 lines run to the top of a catch can. The bottom of the catch can has two -10 lines which return to the sump. It vents to atmosphere and and it pumps a bit of oily vapor out the breathers. I believe it's coming from the sump. I can't put a non return valve in as it will stop the catch can equalizing the pressure from the sump.......any suggestions?

Alrighty, so fixed the leak I had in the intercooler piping. I'm now able to dial in as much boost as I desire. However it still feels doey. Running 16psi and 26psi certainly doesn't feel like a 10psi difference in power.... I'm now leaning towards a timing issue. Am going to investigate it further

Still a 2.6 bottom end. The intention is to build a stroked motor later in the year.

Unfortanetly I did this setup shortly after I bought the car, and probably didn't do enough research. I knew I wanted to stay twins, and it matched the power output I was aiming for. I had never heard of shuffling till now. In retrospect I probably could have gone with something else and got the same result

So I'm running a pair of HKS GT-RS turbos, and I'm contemplating changing my HKS manifolds for a set of manifolds with a balance pipe to stop the shuffle. Ie done a fair bit of searching but can't find a lot of information on them. My main questions are: Is there a disadvantage to running manifolds with a balance pipe? Who make ten now as HKS obviously don't anymore?