533 RYC

I'd also replace the M\C, not rebuild it. Although it might not be scratched, the wear from the seal will reduce pressure.

Cannot see underside of the M\C to see the extent of the fluid. By the picture though, that's more of a weep than a leak (no fluid loss). Air being sucked in would by a remote possibility as the rubber seal for the reservoir is decent sized seal. NIP up the clamp a touch, not much though as you don't want to crack the reservoir & bleed it. You can bleed the slave by yourself by unbolting it (there's a few procedures on here).

LOL, piss funny! The beauty of oval pipe, & they flow so much more than round pipe!

^ +1 Pedal staying on the floor is consistent with slave failure. your fork hasn't popped off the pivot has it?

Seeings as it an N/A, you greatly benefit from a bit of back pressure for better low down torque, so don't go too big or it'll be all noise & no go!!! 2.5'' is too big for N/A, I'd look at 2'' as absolute maximum A free flowing exhaust is a compromise. Maybe you could follow the Ferrari/Lambo/SLR route & have an exhaust cut out for higher RPM when it's all about flow........

got any pics of the gasket &/or head where the leak occurred? I build large stationary turbo engines - I see quite a few failures - mechanical mayhem is a big favourite of mine!

^ +1. The stock airbox with a QUALITY panel filter will still flow very decent RWK numbers over a pod filter, its been shown elsewhere on the forum....

^ +1. The capacity increase VS the amount of boost these engines can put up with COULD allow it to run safely. The fact that the afr's have been checked should confirm the state of tune is sufficient to support the load/demand of the setup.

That's the return. I have a larger pressure feed on the pipe between the throttle body & intercooler (stock pipe). Is yours still stock?

I found some more info on the pressure switch, was a little concerned as it didn't have a return to the airbox. Should I plumb it in? The return from the pressure switch runs behind the timing belt, just below the sprockets & up to the intake plenum. If you need pics I can post some up later.

Anythings possible. how much boost does it put up with? My wifes Cube decided to not start one morning. popped between 1 & 2. Both cylinders were a perfect 82psi.

It's not silly Cal, it's more of an ambient air temp sensor. It provides a baseline ambient temp for the ECU in relation to ignition timing & knock reference. Doesn't matter how good your intercooler is, the cooled charge air temp will heat up alittle between the intercooler & cylinder. Mostly the air closest to the piping/manifold, not so much the air right in the centre of your flow. Depends on your porting....... The Vac line on the P/steer pump is a boost/load reference for variable steering.

LOL Terry, the Holden badge will be lost in a generation. Badge swapping for something it's not is a BIG pet hate of mine. LIke a maroon Magna I spotted in traffic near my place with a GT-R badge on the boot, or the E39 BMW 5MPower (the 25 doesn't sound as fast) on Saturday! There are others too, but a new thread is needed for that!

Bingo! You more than likely hit the nail on the head & found the answer to your problem. Is there anyway you can refit the dampener/regulator you removed?

In thanks Terry, & Happy New Year everyone.

Not too sure on the R35's, but its possible an up to date flash program by the dealer COULD have reset (temporarily) the PCM, until it sees a mechanical/electrical fault (if there was one in the first place), then it will re-learn & lock out gears as it did before. Was the PCM flashed with the latest program during the diagnosis?

Tracing & testing is all I can suggest. jump on Ebay or Trade me, & look up R32 skyline workshop/service manual. They are not very expensive.

Not neccesarily, Have you got three spare green/white wires at the fuse box end? Time to get a wiring diagram out & trace each wire to the nearest connector.

Did you get it sorted Hamish?

That's how things like this happen:

Hey wht510 If you checkout the post times of both OP's then you will see that this one was posted 5 minutes earlier than the other one. Luck of the drawn I knew about the other one straight after I posted above..........

Comp test Pull a cam cover & visual the clearance between the cam lobe & bucket.

Occasionaly I pull out the old PS2 & throw in GT3, just to drive the 20B JC Cosmo & 12A turbo S1 RX-7 they used to have in the game. Why they junked them & put more MX-5's......only the Japs know. Maybe they believe the world goes up & down, not round & round!

Bent valves. pull the head & post pics. How many km on the belt? Where are you in NSW?

Broken timing belt idler? Does the pulley still turn or is it seized? If thats gone, then I reckon your gonna be pulling the head aswell - non free spinning engines.