Russco

Quote by Gibson_R35 "Nisskid, you made your opinions very clear in the last thread. Please do not come and continue your posts here, Duncan is posting information for those of us who actually are interested in the merits of his trials not on someones speculation on strengths of materials etc. If you would like to go out and buy a set of Rotas and destroy them in the name of strength testing then please do that and come back and post your results, however we are very much versed on your dislike of the ROTAS. Point made...now back to the actual testing." Nice try...........delusional misrepresentation at it's purest. You'd certainly fail in spades as a litigation lawyer or any profession that involves any form of logical argument based on fact. Are you sure they weren't actually laughing AT you, not with you??

You may as well call them faulty with references such as "relatively weak" and "not very strong" - facts are facts, they are a cast wheel, priced as such and do not pretend to be a big dollar forged wheel. That said, they are still strong enough for throwing around a track if you want a cheap option. If I was to follow your line of reasoning I'd argue your Oz rims are weak compared to custom forged titanium rims (if they made them) - but that's stupid. Your idea of what strength is required in a wheel is massive overkill based on ......well, nothing. This is the same reason why you got flamed in the Rota thread....evidently you're a slow learner and/or supremely ignorant to be posting the same garbage in yet another wheel thread again. So your "mate" broke one at the track......is this the same mate that had his kidneys removed in Vegas and was left in a bath of ice?? Again, my offer still stands for a free carton. I'll leave you alone to continue your vendetta of misinformation as obviously this is a hangup that runs pretty deep with you.

I wouldn't be paying $1800 for Rota's - never used them myself but price alone would steer me back to Enkei RPF1, if you want to save more $$ albeit with much heavier wheels then you can always downgrade to drift teks.

Since when has G4/D2 suspension been the subject of this topic - last time I checked it was drift teks....still doesn't backup what you're saying. Here's a deal for you => you go out to a track and document an actual failure of drift teks caused by poor casting/design fault, post all the relevant details including pics up on the forum here and I'll buy you a carton of beer...I reckon that's a pretty safe bet my end.

in your case the shit is coming out of the other end....continually. Do everyone a favour and stop posting the same sewerage time and time again. Witnessed a first hand failure....yeah right, more unsustantiated scaremongering. I've done many, many laps of qr on semis and my drift teks are still going strong.

Yes indeed.... & unfortunately the rest of the us, yet again, have to put up with your unsubstantiated, one-eyed hatred for anything that is not a forged Rays wheel. If you are a metallurgist and/or have actually strength tested these rims feel free to comment otherwise stop posting in this thread as you're adding nothing of value to the topic.

or as I've found out in the past, out of a set of second hand jap wheels 1 is often buckled which is pretty hard to pick up unless you have a wheel balancing machine handy hence why I'll always buy new wheels be it cast or forged. Nisskid - continuing on from the Rota thread are we...............?

Got a set of Drifteks in 17 x 8 on my R32 GTST fitted with 235x45x17" RE55 for circuit days. Cheap solid cast rim but not the lightest, never had any issues but if I had my time again would go for Enkei RPF1, much lighter and the better quality.

Best fix I found to this problem was to run a small Permacool fuel cooler in the return line (low pressure side) between the regulator and surge tank - works a treat. Just make sure it has ample airflow and you mount it within the chassis rails for safety.

Would you consider a swap + cash your way for a mint 4 door R32 GTST? Has a built RB26 motor tuned by Mark as well - runs 11.2 @ 128. Bucket load spent on extras.

Toluene won't hurt your cat or oxygen sensor, I've also found no deterioriation in my rubber fuel lines/engine bores albeit I usually run only a 25% mix which is heaps. It provides a better level of knock protection than the bottled octane boosters but you need to be careful handling the stuff. Pricing of race fuel in Australia is criminal - I just wish E85 was more widely available....

Or try a 25-30% mix with toluene - spark plugs come out clean. Good insurance for summer track days in QLD.

cool, let me know how you go + price

Guys, chasing a stock R33 radiator fan - must have no cracks. Pm or 0409 635 106. Cheers

Straight MAP was poor on light throttle compared to AFMs but I had multiple throttle bodies (RB26). Redid the tune with MAP over TPS (combination of the 2) and found driveability every bit as equal as stock AFMs. Best point => if I blow a cooler pipe/vacumm hose at the drags I can drive it home as is... unlike AFMs which would instantly foul the plugs. Best move I ever made was getting rid of the AFMs.

I'm not a cop but I'll answer that.........it's called "Discrimination". PS Well done for fighting the charge.

Got a set in mint condition, but they have new tyres on them. Pm if interested.

Used condition, just started to touch treadwear indicators. Enough rubber for 2 meets (or more depending on length of burnouts). Recently been rebalanced, wheels are dead straight. Have run 1.700 60" on these. Bargain - $200. Can also email high res pics. Please contact via pm as my mobile is dead. Cheers Russ

I had exactly the same problem - did a track day at QR and now they are dead quiet. Seemed all they needed was an "intense" bedding-in process (in my case anyway).

After a set of 17x8 or 17x8.5/9, prefer brand name rim, cast or forged - must be in good order, no meshies or chrome (no buckles, bad gutter rash etc). Pay cash. Cheers

I got an NPC twin plate, I ride it a fair bit at the drags + on the street - have a look at one of these + they're cheap to rebuild. Easy clutch to live with.

Just a heads up for the guys using Motul 300V range, I had some oil samples done on my 300v 15w-50. Given it's cost, I based my oil change intervals on these results - even when the oil looked black it was still well within spec, you'd be surprised how long this stuff lasts compared to other oils (as a general rule of thumb I change it only half as often compared to the previous "synthetic" I was using).

Not buffed although they are almost worn down to a "buffed" state - thanks for the tip, will get Craig to have a look at them all the same. Seem too way soft and not enough stiffness in the sidewall to be anything more than a wet, great street tyre though!

Just be careful what Toyo's you get - avoid the RA-1's, I've got these on my GTST and they are shockers on a hot summer's QR track (only get 1 lap out of them before they turn to marshmellow's). Go the RE55s.

Bit of logical incompatability between these statements....??