discopotato03

Rubs hands together , may have 4 PSS on the way (sea) in about 6 weeks time if things line up . Good price too . A .

Choices choices and they fall amongst the Mitchy types , PP2 PP3 and PSS . Pilot Sport 2s have been around for a while and some even claim they were a bit of a benchmark for a performance road car . I suppose the size to get is the 255 40 . Getting pricing ATM and off top of my suppliers head was 350-400 . Pilot sport 3s are a later development and reviewers claim a better wet road tyre that traded some ultimate dry surface grip . My Evo 6 has these in 235 45 and they work really well on that . They are also available here in a 245 45 but the damage is about 90 more each . I think the 235 were ~ 250 ea . Michelins current stick master is of course their Pilot Super Sport available in 245 40 and 245 45 . Not available here yet and the cost from the US + "shipping" runs to nearly 750 for two 245 45s . The pain is always price and the variation here is 125 , 250 vs 375 . So 235 45 PS3 vs 245 45 PS3 vs 255 40 PS2 vs 245 45 PSS . Shits me up the wall what we pay retail for tyres compared to US and its not like they are made in America ... A .

Inquired through Whiteline about R33 Hicas Lock Bar . Seems they don't do an R33 one and think removing the rack causes electronic faults ? May have found a used ISC one close by but thought I'd ask anyway . I suppose the Tomei rack lock kit comes closest to legal ? A .

Still got the Hicas Lockbar and is it an ISC one ? A .

No from overseas , Michy don't advertise 245/45/17 in PSS here on their site anyway . PS3s work really well on my Lancer and PSS is supposed to be a bit better again at everything . A .

So , has anyone come up with a rear brake upgrade because big (350mm) front brakes are one thing but the back needs something better than standard to match . Evos don't have small rear brakes . Also big rotors are going to weigh a bit and its all unsprung mass . A .

Yes some ahh candid thing at times . Inline six facts . Piston and power strokes are phased 120 crank degrees apart in the 153624 order . Every four stroke cycle will have 720 crank degrees but they each start 120 crank degrees apart in the above order . An I6 crank is phased like an two I3s joined at the crank but they don't work the same because the three goes 123 123 etc where the six goes 153624 . I6 exhausts can be grouped like two I3s but the split pulse I6 is only exhausting into each three branch manifold half as often . I believe the thing to understand about split pulse turbocharging is that it probably doesn't achieve huge differences if the turbocharger is large for high rev big number performance . Any engine that has big passages and big turbines and housings isn't going to have 6.2L NA torque at 2000 revs . It is a lot easier and cheaper to do big with single scroll turbo systems and if you have adequate engine capacity to start with it doesn't have to go like a Morrie pulling a B Double . I think the thing to realise is that an acceptable pressure balence across the engine when its running on full boost/load is the way to make strong torque . Doing everything the difficult expensive ways should broaden the engines usefull rev range , with turbochargers the limits are generally the non linear performance of rotary compressors and exhaust driven turbines . The result is being able to enhance half to two thirds of an engines operating range but not the whole lot . Best overall seems to be the most cubes and the least weight , A .

Evo 6s have brilliant brakes out of the box . I'm very interested in the 350 conversion provided it goes in 17/8.5/30P Rays LMGT4s but I need to know what you do to correct the brake bias issue . Mine is a non ABS R33 so the rear brakes would have to work harder or be upgraded as well . What we REALLY need is a safe reliable rear brake upgrade and I suppose it needs to use the largest OE GTR discs to keep the hand brake mechanism as is . If that could be done with say std Evo 6-9 rear calipers that makes pad choices easy and in the same family . A .

Aside from the life expectancy points , cars that don't handle stop and steer make them and their drivers look incredably stupid . You don't see road race cars with Pulsar spec wheels tyres brakes and suspension . Skylines came with "user friendly" suspension and R33s are what - 15 to 19 years old so anything std is going to be well past its use by date . My experience is you can use more of your cars std performance once it does steer stop and handle better , good tyres alone make a phenominal difference but they will chop out quickly if the suspension is all floppy and out of alignment . My vote goes to a good suspension kit that can be lived with ie the Whiteline Bilstein one , something you'll feel straight away and with good tyres does amasing things . As a minimum I reckon your brakes need to be in as new condition meaning probably new discs and road friendly pads . Learn to renew the fluid or get it done every year or so for a roadie . So handle steer grip stop . Many people find that less than 300 is bloody quick and often quick enough . If 260-265 floats your boat its significantly cheaper and should live longer . Your call .

The story I get is that there are two different sensors in these Nissan MAFs and depending on which you get in which size body the results are different . About to read the above 26 in 25 link , cheers A .

I don't know iff your head is assembled yet but one thing with RB TC heads is that they have a little less than an ideal ratio of valve sizes as in the exhaust is a little small but not by much . Slightly oversized exhaust valves can go in with refinished exhaust valve seats and a little throat blending . The std size works ok on a standard engine but ones with better breathing really like this mod . The old SK R33 and mine really like this mod and appear to lose nothing anywhere - on both std and 256 8.5 Tomeis . The CR is up a littke at ~ 9.3 . You can achieve the same thing with a bit more exhaust cam but mild valve train geometry is probably more reliable long term . I reckon if anything is slightly lacking anywhere the bigger cylinders will make it more obvious - show it up sooner rev wise . Food for though , cheers A .

Ok the plan is to get the rear suspension looked over inc ball joints and Hicas rack ends . If it comes up ok its getting a lock bar fitted soon and an alignment probably at the same time . SK said to check where the "pinapples" were fitted as in above or below the subframe , he said there is three possible settings to enhance rear grip normal or drift and its to do with sumframe angles . Drift is useless to me so will look at the normal or rear squat/grip setting . The rear tyre has worn a little more on the nearside which people tell me is not unusual , they have worn further that I'd have though but are easily legal . I suspect alignment and or the single sided viscous coupling has had some say in this . I spoke to Gary about size vs best technology and with 10mm the difference he reckons go with the tech so looking at a pair of Pilot Super Sports in 245/45/17 . I really wish Michelin did these in 255/40 but thats life . A .

Any other opinions on Michelin Pilot sport 2s 3s and Pilot Super Sports ? A .

Hi all , I have the same sized wheels and tyres on my GTS25T and Evolution 6 (8 1/2 x 17 with 235 45s) and I want new rear rubber for the Skyline . I like Michelin so please don't say use this or that brand instead . The Skyline currently has Pilot Preceda 2s and the Evo Pilot sport 3s which I think replaced the PP2s . The thing is that Michelin do some 17" sizes in PS2s and others in PS3s and also a few not advertised here in Pilot Super Sports which I think is their upmarket road tyre ATM . I think the current situation is 235 45 in PS3 , 255 40 in PS2 , and the PSS in 245 45 . I'm looking for more rear end traction and width wise the 255 40 PS2 sounds the goods , until you read reviews on the PSS where everyone reckons fantastic traction . I have not seen a comparison between PS2 255 40s and PSS 245 45s and I really wish Michelin did a 255 40 17 in PSSs . Prices here are what you'd expect but looking OS at "the rack" makes me feel better . BTW Michelin doesn't show 245 45 17 PSS on their local site . Thoughts ? Cheers A .

I'm not sure if the RTA/EPA has a problem with extra cats provided they can't become a fire/injury hazzard . Insulation could be something like thermotec wrap , often manufacturers go to great lengths to shield exhausts to keep the heat in the gas because it firstly heats the cat and secondly hot gas has greater expansion energy to drive it down the pipe . I hate to say it because of weight and packaging issues but some of the most successful systems are actually dualled and have valves to open/close the extra one . Not so sure how this would work with paralleled cats but on an angry engine at running temp the exhaust temp should be up there if suddenly switched through a cool extra cat . I think the greatest dramas overall for the manufacturers are at cold start when everything including the exhaust gas temp is cool . If you could run one modest system from cold start and open a second under extra load could kill two birds so to speak . For us one big system is always going to be a problem because the gas speeds are low at part load/throttle and there is vastly more heat absorption in the extra tube area and it rejects a lot more heat as well . Heat is everything with emissions and it can't be too cool or too hot . I remember years ago BMW (I think it was BM) looking at electrically pre heated cats to beat cold start issues . It was going to take more zap than your typical 12V system has so they started looking at I think 18 and 24V systems but I don't think it ever got to production . Something to ponder is this . On paper a GTS25T has 184 Kw with an I think roughly 2 1/2" system . If you could somehow have two samish stdish exhausts under there but only ran one up to say 2800-3000 revs or pre boost revs anyway and then opened the second exhaust , would you have quiet legal 300 kw potential ? Packaging nightmare but food for thought , cheers A .

There could be something different out there , I'd be more interested in smaller trim GT30 turbines than larger ones but thats something for Garret to ponder when they get off their arses and start redeveloping 20 year old GT turbine designs . A .

I keep hearing about XR6T cats but couldn't find reasonable pics or results with them . I used to use a Catco 8007 large body large matric ceramic cats but not sure if they are still available . I think the problem is getting enough cat cross sectional area is one thing but keeping this hot enough is another . Something else to think about is running several of those 100 cel cats in series as close to the engine as possible and maybe even insulate the exhaust ahead of the cat/s . I'm told cats are a two tier problem as in 1) having them present in the factory std location 2) having the emissions correct . A .

News to me , all GT30 UHP turbines were the same 84 trim size which from memory makes the exducer a whisker under 55mm . By this Imean the full sized GT30 turbines not the cropped 84 and 80T ones . The difference I was talking about was the back of the center housing not the turbine wheel itself . ck the car Check the cartridge number if the tag shows it . A .

Been up all night out on the rails but thats life . Three things I'd look at if it were me . First the turbos ID plate for its part numbers . Second , some early HKS GT30 spec turbos had a slightly differently machined register on the bearing housing and the turbine housing needs to match it . I remember reading that later housings could be altered to suit . Thirdly , it'd be real easy to compare the existing and replacement turbine housing to see whats dimensionally different . If the turbo is in fact a HKS spec GT3037 it will have the same turbine as as any other Garrett GT30 BB turbo with the full sized ie 59.9mm GT30 turbine . I'd get a steel rule or preferably a Vernier caliper and start measuring those housings . A .

I figure its going to cost me tyres and a clutch plate LSD . Andrew I think for the costs involved may as well have a factory CLSD and doing that means hanging the 30 spline axles and matching 6 bolt shafts off it . Really the only down side is replacing dampers that aren't worn out . It would need a wheel alignment anyway so thats just part of it . A .

It already has pinapples in it , the full Sk Whiteline Bilstein kit not just the struts and springs . Just thinking hard ATM about the full GTR rear end set meaning dampers uprights etc etc to the diff center . I know a few people here have done this and probably the only new bits would be the Bilsteins with the "fork" mounts . Can someone tell me roughly what an R33 GTRs rear end bits cost second hand - meaning diff stubs shafts uprights and hubs ? Probably need lower control arms too to make it easy . The other question is do the RWD LCAs have aftermarket bushes in Whitelines kit and if so can they be reused ? I'm going to look in the DIY/Tutorial section to see if anyones done this conversion to a RWD R33 and posted pics , cheers A . Sorry one more , Gary tells me some R32GTSTs had clutch LSDs in them . Do their stub shafts suit GTS25Ts half shafts or do they have 3x2 bolt flanges like Silvias ?

Yes I get the feeling that Pilot Preceda 2s were not their high end tyre and more a slightly upmarket all rounder . Having said that they are pretty good all rounders and real good in the wet . If I go looking for 255 40s I'll probably start with Pilot Sport 2s . A .

I managed to speak to Gary yesterday afternoon to pick his brains on rear Skyline stuff . Firstly their old 33 (GO33GO) Used to spin the rears and in ultimate form it had 266 at the wheels with similar specs to mine but with a GTR IC and OP6 GCG Hi Flow . He said their Viscous LSD was good for what they wanted and had very little to no single spin issues . Driveline wise it was pretty std apart from a gearbox rebuild and aftermarket clutch and lightened flywheel . Suspension was all Garys kit and the wheels were Enkei 17 x 8.5 RPF1s that ended up on an Evo funnily enough . I think they used 245 45 tyres but he said 255 40s would work and stay inside the bodywork . The GTR LSD would be better but that ultimately means hemisphere outwards and to stay weight neutral means changing the uprights and rear dampers to GTR style . I understand weight reduction is a bonus here because with the uprights its unsprung mass . A .

I managed to get a copy of the R32GTR WSM from a friend and the 96 Z32 300ZX one as well because that covers R200V and R230V diffs as well . A .

For the record will 255 40 17s be flush or outside the bodywork on 17 x 8.5 30P wheels ? . The Sydneykid set up has a little bit of negative and toe in but I'll ask him the numbers when I talk to him . DP03 .