amnash

hey guys, i have a hcr32 and it has two small dents smack dab in the middle of the passenger door. and the local dent company after having a good look at it with the door panel off said there's nothing they could do without repainting the whole door because of the way the steel reinforcement is inside the door. there is a bnr32 door for sale locally in the same color for cheap so my question is would that fit on my hcr32 without any issues? are the doors actually the same? i know the gtr is a bit wider...

ok so the voltage while cranking drops to like 7v....i changed the starter for the one i had laying around and there was no change. maybe its the battery

the car is still really hard to start. im going to check the voltage when cranking and then change the starter with a rb20 starter i have sitting around. does anyone know a north American vehicle that has a starter that would work? would be nice to have a nice new one in there. im tired of this sluggish starting it makes my car look like it runs like shit but it doesn't... what you the voltage be when cranking? and if the starter doesn't fix it what should i try next?

hey guys, so i have the r34 cluster now and i wanna get stuff ready for the winter. does anyone know where i could find a pin out diagram of the cluster?? for both r32 and r34

ya thats all sorted now. this build thread has been going for a couple years actually. i just copy and pasted from gtrcanada.com thats local to me since im in canada. but this forum here is the best for info and stuff

looks so much better with a grill

ya so am i lol i hope i can actually do it..

some parts came in the mail today, a r32 grill that took a year for me to find because i wanted one with no broken tabs AND in gunmetal grey this thing is mint.. very happy with it. and a r34 gauge cluster for this winters project. this should make the interior a lot more modern and sexy.

oh ok, ya i remember that plug. i have nissan data scan and a consult cable. ill play around with it thanks

just wonder how i can go about testing my VVT on my neo to make sure its working as normal? i tried to find some write up on the internet but nothing. what parts do i need to make sure are installed? like solenoids and stuff? this is a r32 swap so i dont know if i have the necessary parts installed or not. any pics would help also thanks guys

so when i did the rb25 neo swap in my r32 i notice a wire from the ecu pin 78 (electric fan relay control signal). so i thought i could use this with a relay and rewire my fans so there was less drag on the alternator. so with a test light hooked up between that wire and + terminal i idled the car and let it warm up. it go all the way up to 200F and i pulled the plug, turned on the fans and it dropped down to a normal 180F so im not sure the purpose of that wire from the r34 ecu. the neo did have a clutch fan on the water pump anyways...so i dont know.. was there also an electric fan on the r34?? so tomorrow im gonna buy one of these and then just have it so that at 200F the fans turn on with full 12v. that way, the only time they are actually on is at a long red light or reall slow traffic. most of the time they will be off

how do you suggest i wire in the fans then? and the fuel pump wiring is what i found on here apparently a lot of people do it. i did notice when wiring in the neo loom, that it has a wire for the electric fan signal. right now that wire isn't hooked up to anything, could i use that to power a relay for the fans? they would still get a full 12v when the relay clicked over but that would be better right? does anyone know if that wire is a grounding signal or a power signal?

i didn't check the voltage while cranking.. what should it be? i just went ahead and changed the alternator, i had one sitting in the garage from my rb20. after the install: car off : 12.14v running : 14.08v + two 12" electric fans wired straight to battery, those turned on : 13.81v + headlights on : drops to 10v then rises slowly to 13.64v + music : 13.59v + heater with blower on max : 12.80 so it is a lot better. i hope that my starting problems go away. my battery light is off now too last question though.. the voltage is still dropping with all the accessories on. isn't the output supposed to constantly change to maintain a 14.7v charge???

also, because my voltage is dipping and jumping around its making my fuel pressure inconsistent

ok so here is what i have going on. the battery hold a solid 12v its 1 year old red optima so its good. Everytime i start the car its struggles to turn the starter and then slowly picks up speed and then the engine will just barely start. today was bad as i was stuck in a parking lot for 15 minutes until it decided to start for me. no im going to fix it before it gets worse. once the car is running here is my voltage at battery with different things turned on; car off : 12.14v running : 12.78v + two 12" electric fans wired straight to battery, those turned on : 12.00v + headlights on : drops to 10v then rises slowly to 11.30v + music : 11.30v + heater with blower on max : 9.96 the fuel pump is also wired to 12v constant. i haven't dealt with alternator issues before so this is a little new. isn't there supposed to be something keeping it at like 14v while running regardless of how much electronics i have turn on??? or do i just have to much electronics? so is this just a matter of changing the alternator? or do i need to upgrade something somewhere?

well i dont think the actuator is crapped out, becasue i was able to have it going before

so the altima sensor did work. and now code 21 is gone, and when i push the ambient button it shows the temp, so thats fixed. now the air mix door actuator doesnt work at all. before i installed the air temp sensor i had codes 21 and 27. now i have codes -26 and 27... any ideas what could have happened?? all fuses are ok. the first time i turn on the air controls the air mix door actuator actually moved all the way over to cold and then all the way back to hot and now it wont move. even if i select fast cold it doesnt move like it used to..

but does anyone know if i could use the ambient air sensor off some other nissan? like pathfinder or maxima? im gonna go to the local junker tomorrow and have a look around

so im just trying to get my climate control to blow cold air. i have removed my air conditioning, but it should still be able to blow ambient air but its not. only blowing full hot air. trying to see if the actuator arm wasnt moving i removed all my center consol and no matter what temp i set it to the arm doesnt move. i then held the cold button and it said fast cold and the actuator arm moved all the way to the other side.. so the actuator is working. i then pushed the ambient button and it said -30 so i was trying to find the sensor and i think it was cut off or something. its only a simple 2 wire sensor, so i was wondering if i could just use one from a nissan pathfinder or something? im in canada so skyline parts are kind of hard to find at the store. so ya, -can i use a pathfinder ambient air sensor?? -would this be the only thing making it blow hot air only??

general maintenance?

so im just trying to get my climate control to blow cold air. i have removed my air conditioning, but it should still be able to blow ambient air but its not. only blowing full hot air. trying to see if the actuator arm wasnt moving i removed all my center consol and no matter what temp i set it to the arm doesnt move. i then held the cold button and it said fast cold and the actuator arm moved all the way to the other side.. so the actuator is working. i then pushed the ambient button and it said -30 so i was trying to find the sensor and i think it was cut off or something. its only a simple 2 wire sensor, so i was wondering if i could just use one from a nissan pathfinder or something? im in canada so skyline parts are kind of hard to find at the store. so ya, -can i use a pathfinder ambient air sensor?? -would this be the only thing making it blow hot air only??

4th class power engineering books for sale. brand spanking new. big waste of money on my part.. only asking 400 for the lot. http://nanaimo.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=408679744&MessageId=MSG.VIEW_AD.AD_ACTIVATEDMXmessageUrlMZhttp%3A%2F%2Fnanaimo.kijiji.ca%2Fc-AdDetails%3FAdId%3D408679744%26Guid%3D1396eb58-4030-a20b-2700-901afffd01e7&mpname=List-Ad&mpname=Conf-Ad-Goods&mpname=ConfAd-Goods&mpname=Conf-Ad-Total&mpuid=1700263%3B109%3B408679744%3B51463664%3B%3B&secev=AQAAATlizYYAAM0AAAABACIxMzk2ZWI1OGM3OC5hMjBiMjZhLjM1MzA5LmZmZjljMTBmAAAAAQAAAAAYW%2FVAAQAAAAIAAAAAF9eEAG1EDLMus5gfpQqc2eBQWdI%2FFgx5&wmid=408679744

truffles thats true. and i have a rb25 swap so its a electrical speed sensor anyways. right now i dont have a speedo.

so ive just done a neo swap. and now my r32 cluster is pretty much useless. right now the speedo isn't hooked up. the tach is glitchy and spikes randomly. the oil gauge isn't hooked up. and the water and boost aren't even accurate. so my question is, has anyone ever fit a r34 cluster into a r32?? i can get one on ebay for decent price. im not to concerned about the wiring, i think it would just be a matter of wiring in the new plugs. my main concern is the actual fitment of it in the r32. i mainly just want to update my gauges. would it be easier to fit an r33?? i want the r34 one more though because it doesn't have a boost gauge.

most recent pics December 09 2011 May 31 2012 When i bought the car she came with: Megan Racing adjustable coilovers Megan short throw shifter Momo Super Indy wood-grain steering wheel Autometer C2 gauges Starbo turbo timer Sirius satellite radio reciever Autobahn 88 intake pipe and mushrrom filter HKS super sequential blow off valve SLP front adjustable arms SLP Steel braided brake lines Alpine CD deck and type S speakers GTR 444 cc injectors tuned with Nistune Sard rising rate fuel pressure regulator KTS adjustable upper knuckles KTS HICAS lockout bar HICAS pump and lines delete Cusco front and rear strut tower braces Optima Red top dry cell battery Supervision 8000k HID system GReddy adjustable cam gears GReddy kevlar timing belt GReddy front mount intercooler GReddy Profec B-spec 2 automatic boost controller Apexi i street edition exhaust A2R downpipe and de-cat pipe A2R adjustable upper rear arms when i brought her home: had the prelude for about 1month after moving to BC got bored with it pretty fast. this winter i decided to do a complete rebuild. car was smoking like a mother and will be nice knowing the engine internals OEM gasket repair kit, N1 oil pump, OEM water pump before anything goes back in it will get cleaned/painted. first up; intake manifold, throttle body etc. full a/c delete first time ever pulling a motor, have to say MUCH easier then i expected. This is where i stand now, engine ready to be stripped down spent all day today removing parts and brackets from the engine bay. give it a good clean removing 20 years of gunk and muck. and when i removed the master cylinder i discoverd something not so pleasant... lol this leads back to a brake problem i had before. brakes were sh*t, calipers they were seized, replaced +rotors. helped a LITTLE bit but they still sucked. has anyone seen this before? spent all weekend cleaning the engine bay and gave it some fresh paint. BAM: so that pulley there is completely seized. if im correct, that "should" just pop right off, right? its all black because we used a touche to try heat it up to expand the metals but no luck. any help or suggestions? maybe im missing something like a little locking clip or something similar? ok. so i had fun tonight... first i did this after that didnt work with heating it up. we did some of this untill there was no more pump then we did some of this. even with a 4 foot crow bar wedged in to stop the crank from spinning and a 4 foot breaker bar that thing would barely spin. then the grand finally! Painting some more goods before: after: picked up this nice gtr trunk off Shane_Sawatzki today. the ebay GTSR logo i bought for the trunk is a different color red so ill have to paint it decided to take the spoiler off to give it a good clean in the hard to reach areas. found one of the mounts had let some water in and rusted out a bit. once i get this stubborn rusted bolt out ill find a new bracket and put it all back together with some new hardware and some sort of sealant to stop it from happening again.(all the oem seals and ripped) this is the two brackets inside the mount next to each other went about making my trunk as good as new. got all the hard to find parts from feastauto, exactly what i needed! fixed up the odd colored emblem with some touch up paint. before after rtv'd the struts to the spoiler to prevent it from happening again, and slapped it all back together: http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1457.jpg Good As New! #1 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/1.jpg #2 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/2.jpg #3 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/3.jpg #4 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/4.jpg #5 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/5.jpg #6 http://i1044.photobu...2/skyline/6.jpg sorry for quality...crappy phone pics little update, went to put in a gtr fuel pump that i bought of a gtrc member and found out that there was a walbro inside there. this one right here: http://www.nissansil...howtopic=295445 the oem gtr flows 195L/H i think? and this flows 255L/H. heres a side by side pic of the two. walbro looks very small. http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1477.jpg small update: cleaned the transmission up and installed new pilot bearing, release bearing, and sleeve http://i1044.photobu.../P110515008.jpg then noticed this.. dont know how i missed it theres only 2/6 fasteners holding the turbo to dump pipe and 2 studs are completely missing. http://i1044.photobu.../P110515012.jpg bought a vg30det turbo and divided dump pipe off scred_gts4 and its already in the mail cant wait, gonna be way better then the crappy dump pipe above^ a week later: http://i1044.photobu.../P110525011.jpg pic of the two turbos(VG30 on left): http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1699.jpg just thought i would post how i went about removing the super corroded rear wiper nut the BEST way to get it out is to mask off the surrounding window, then take a course file and just work on one side of the nut carefully until you can see the threads. then you take vice grips and grab on it the same way you would with regular wrench and turn the nut. it will bend open and fall off. http://i1044.photobu.../P110402002.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110402003.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110402004.jpg engines about half way done. only stopped working on it cuz i need a 12 point 13m deep socket for the head studs and all the shops were closed. hope i can find one tomorrow it being sunday and all.. http://i1044.photobu.../P110527001.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110525015.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110604005.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110526029.jpg http://i1044.photobu...ne/100_1693.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P110604007.jpg so its been 6 months. car is running well with only a rough idle. put a driving permit on it for yesterday and today to get the engine broken in a little and to stretch her legs(its been over a year since on the road). man what a fun day this has been. first thing to do was give it a good wash. had been outside collecting dirt for a year. SCRUB A DUB DUB http://i1044.photobu.../P111209001.jpg SQUEAKY CLEAN http://i1044.photobu.../P111209002.jpg THEN THIS SHOWED UP http://i1044.photobu.../P111210004.jpg WHO SAID SKYLINES AREN'T PRACTICAL http://i1044.photobu.../P111210005.jpg assembled the fan shroud to the rad today and installed it: http://i1044.photobu.../P111221004.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P111221003.jpg theres not enough clearance with the p/s pump in there: http://i1044.photobu.../P111221005.jpg http://i1044.photobu.../P111221007.jpg i could just remove the fans and have one big electric fan..but i like this set up to much. so im going to run a electric power steering pump out of a toyota MRII. havn't done much research on it yet but it should be fairly simple. if anyone has any experiance or has found any good threads on running electrical p/s systems in the r32 post it up got the power steering pump out and rad fits in fine now, http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1939.jpg installed AEM wideband that i got for xmas today, this is where i had the bung welded; http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1953.jpg http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_1957.jpg wired the gauges so they light up when headlights are turned on and a potentiometer so i could dim them small update, car is all done and on the road. i have 600km on the motor and there hasn't been any issues so far. I finally mounted the gauges on my A pillar without the use of zap straps, and thought i would do a little write up. first diy thread so bare with me. DIY: professional gauge pod install for under $50 things you need : - gauge pod from autometer PN#23904($35 lordco). - 2 part plastic welding epoxy($10 c-tire). - 8 plastic clips($3 lordco) http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/1.jpg the gauge pod doesn't fit that great so you have to bend it to fit and hold it with tape.once its taped down nice and tight where you want it start drilling 1/4" holes and one at a time remove the tape and insert a clip. http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/2.jpg only do one full side at a time. i started at the top side because thats the side you can see through the glass and alignment is more important. so after one side has all the clips in lightly clamp the clips down using a cloth not to scratch the pod. and then use the epoxy on the back of the clips. this acts as an anchor and will keep the pod held in place much better then clips alone. when epoxy is dry carefully remove clamps and move to the next clip. http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/3.jpg once all that is done, you have to trim the clips on the bottom side so that the oem clips will still be able to engage. http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/4.jpg and thats it, your pod will now be a part of the a pillar trim and is rock solid. http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/5.jpg http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/6.jpg http://i1044.photobu...2/amnash2/7.jpg met up with a friend and his silvia went for a small cruise through bendy back roads http://i1044.photobu...20604-00421.jpg http://i1044.photobu...06-04123307.jpg finally did something with all these. http://i1044.photobu...06-04095756.jpg so i had an alignment done today and the car is handleing a lot better now and wheel isnt shaking like crazy. took it on an empty highway and had it at about 200 for a couple seconds, man this car is rock solid. so im happy with the alignment. but.. after that good stretch down the highway i started to hear a noise under the hood and pulled over. i then limped it all the way home not going over 2000rpm and its sitting in my garage now. ill be pulling apart a few things trying to find it. im hoping its a loose bold under the valve cover.. some pictures JDMsource sent me before it was shipping out. http://i1044.photobu...h2/IMG_3451.jpg http://i1044.photobu...h2/IMG_3462.jpg 12-June- picked it up and brought it home. http://i1044.photobu...06-12150141.jpg http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_2147.jpg gave everything a good once over. and removed stuff not needed/mounted transmission ready for install http://i1044.photobu...h2/100_2256.jpg 13-June- installing engine http://i1044.photobu...20613-00432.jpg http://i1044.photobu...06-13190436.jpg http://i1044.photobu...06-13200134.jpg I've been slacking on keeping this updated. but the swap is all done. only thing I've left for the winter is the transmission wiring and the speedo. but i just wanted to have it on the road for the rest of the summer/fall. had to buy an aftermarket drive shaft for the rb25(non neo) transmission. http://i1044.photobu...07-12101539.jpg here's what my kitchen floor looked like for a week while i was tackling the wiring. it sat there for a while why i did research and once i found little info on how to do the wiring with r34 loom i decided to just try and figure it out on my own. so with the rb20 pin out diagram and the r34 pin out diagram i just did one wire at a time. and labeled EVERYTHING.. i cant stress that enough lol once i figured it out its actually pretty simple. just overwhelming at first. http://i1044.photobu...07-24225848.jpg here's a video of the first start up. (runs no problem once you have the fuel lines the right way around)