amnash

you were all right. im an idiot. lines were backwards. works fine and engine is running. i love how the FPR and the dampener looks the exact same. fml

sooo there is definitely something fishy going on with the fueling system. - i turned the FPR max each way and it didnt even change the pressure at all. - i removed the fuel pump fuze and cranked the engine to see if the pressure would drop and it doesn't even budge.( injectors arent spitting?) - and with a hunch i removed the return line going to the FPR and its bone dry!... there much be a blockage inside the rail somewhere? probably before the injectors. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gABQmtQiDPk&feature=youtu.be what should i do from here? does this mean i have to remove my intake mani and access the fuel rail?? I've done it before, but what a pain in the ***

Kiwi, its not the mitsubishi one, it has a plastic cover. looks like the r34 one. pretty sure its not r33. and its making the injectors click, and spark plugs spark. so should be fine i think DVS, i thought that could be the issue as well, but when i took the CAS off to check, the slot it actually off centered. so it can only go on the one way. GTS, if its just the one brown ECCS relay then im good. it clicks when i plug it in with ignition set to ON. what would i be looking for with the timing light while cranking the engine?

ya elk, its a factory loom. the only parts i messed about with was connecting the loom to the chassis plugs. does anyone here have an r34 GTT? just to check how many relays are on the engine loom near the ecu. because on mine there is only one 6 pin brown relay. maybe i am missing a start relay or something (although there are no wires that aren't connected)

Elite, that makes sense. ill dial down the pressure then to compensate for the extra flow from now running 12v constant at the pump. good thing i have the adjustable FPR then or i wouldn't be able to do that. ill go with 35 psi. Elk, the fuel lines are hooked up correctly. i have a pressure gauge installed in the feed line constantly and another fuel pressure gauge inside cabin. i have pressure. i have great compression, did a dry compression test while i tested for spark and it was 160~170 on all 6 cylinders. i believe im using a r34 GTT ecu part number # 23710-AA500. and my battery has 12v. i keep it on a trickle charge at night. how would i check to see if the coils and injectors are firing in the correct order? and if its wrong, how would i fix it? the CAS can only be installed the one way..so it couldn't be that.

how would i go about doing that? just by adjusting the FPR? what if i didnt have an adjustable one? when the tomei FPR was on my rb20 i have is adjusted for 35psi and havnt adjusted it since. why would it be higher now?

OK, so I have been trying to get this rb25 neo running for a couple of weeks now. I've done all the wiring myself and I'm about 98% sure its all done properly. i have fuel pressure, pump is wired to 12v constant through relay.(actually spikes way up to about 100psi) new tomei fuel pressure regulator. listened to the injectors with long screwdriver while turning the CAS and they're all clicking. pulled the coil-packs out, and with the spark plugs in them i turned the CAS. there's spark. I re-checked the cam timing, and its bang on. ive tried to start with maf unplugged. nothing. tried to start with ICV unplugged. nothing. installed fresh spark plugs after them getting fouled so im running out of ideas.. the engine cranks from the starter turning, but it doesnt even try to start. any ideas from anyone of what i could try next?? the rb25 is from a r34 GTT. One thing i noticed was the TPS has 6 wires going to it. in two sets of 3, one set is black red and white which is connected. and the other set of 3 is brown yellow and green which isn't connected to anything and aprears to blacked of from the factory.(looks like and oem blanking plug)

does anyone know where the fpcm is located on a r32? i want to completely remove it if im gonna not use it

well they dont look the same but if you trace the wires, its exactly the same. the pins are in different spot on the ecu plugs but should be doing the same job. it might be the drop resistor your talking about, anybody know where it is?

could someone take a multimeter to there car and read the voltage or resistance on the fuel pump relay pin on ecu? that would be a huge help because then i would at least know what to aim for

so after measuring some voltages on the relay pins i think the ecu isnt sending the signal to ground the pump relay. i checked both the r32 wiring and r34 wiring and they are the exact same for the fuel pump. any ideas why the ecu wouldnt be sending the signal?

i have no idea, and im stumped. everything worked fine before, now with the r34 ecu it doesnt wanna work im hoping there's someone on here thats put a neo into a r32 and can help me out a bit

im in the process of my rb25 neo swap and everything is done, its just a matter of wiring and getting it to start up. the r34 engine harness is all set up to plug into the r32 chassis wiring. i cant figure out my my fuel pump fuse keeps blowing. ive gone through three 15amp and one 20amp fuses. im completely stumped as to why it keeps blowing. it worked fine with the rb20 installed. the only part of the circuit ive tampered with is the ecu fuel pump relay wire on the engine harness and that's now hooked up to were the rb20 fuel pump relay wire was connected to the chassis wiring so it should be fine. the signal voltage seems to be good and everything but after a second or 2 the fuse blows... any ideas? anyone that's done a rb25 swap run into this problem??