amnash

How did you go about connecting the bulb plug? Did you cut a large hole in the back of the plastic housing ? Did you seal it somehow?

Hey just want to say thanks for making this thread and keeping the photos alive. Doing this exact retrofit now and this has expedited the process. ✌️

I'll take your turbo, check your message box.

anyone running one? is it laggy?

ok thanks, what exhaust housing better suits the rb25? ive heard the gtrs is a bit laggy and given that has a 0.64 housing, the 0.73 kinugawa would be even worse..?? are most rb25 guys running the 8cm housing?

looking to upgrade the turbo on my neo. has anyone used Kinugawa turbos? this turbo in the link has the closest specs to the HKS GTRS turbo with a slightly bigger turbine. there's two housing options AR-0.57(8cm) or AR-0.73(10cm), the GTRS has a 0.64 housing. would the 0.57 housing be too restrictive or would it be ok with the larger turbine? dont know much about turbos, thanks. GTRS: compressor- 51.2 / 71.1... turbine- 47.0 / 53.8 ex housing- 0.64 Kinugawa: compressor- 52.5 / 68.0 turbine- 54.0 / 61.0 ex housing- 0.57 or 0.73 http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawaturbochargerbolt-on24inchesnissanskylinerb20detrb25dettd05h-16g8cm10cm-1-1.aspx

Just an update. I went with a stagea ecu they didn't have traction control so the codes are now gone. Just had Nistune board installed too but still factory tune for now.

Pics

looking to buy bumper brackets 62216-05U00(R/H) and 62217-05U00(L/H) to mount my intercooler. FAST says they are the same number for r32,r33,r34 gtr. there must be a gtr somewhere that is being parted out and wont be needing these.. this is the last piece for my factory fmic install on my gts puzzle, please help.

My friends Rb25 neo ecu is not sending spark signal for ‪#‎1coilpack‬ to fire.. tried another ecu and coil pack fires perfectly. What could of gone wrong with the ecu?fixable? Recent maintenance was spark plugs, didn't disconnect battery. Fried ecu?I've done my plugs many times without disconnecting battery..

anyone?? im sure someone has done this swap and had the same issues

trying to get the check engine light off in my r32. first off, the car runs fine, did a neo swap on my r32 and obviously didnt install the traction control system. I had originally bought a stagea ecu to avoid the code(stagea=no traction control) but i now have a mines r34 GTT ecu and the code is back. Basically i need to know how to trick the ecu in thinking the traction control is working. its code 46:Throttle motor Sensor signal circuit. theres four wires to the ecu that didnt get hooked up during the swap. Pin 51: Throttle motor Sensor Signal Pin53: Motor throttle switch Pin 37: throttle opening Signal Pin 79: ECM-TCM, TCS/ABS Integrated Control Signal(multiplex communication) can i connect two of these four wires? add a resistor somewhere? ground a wire? a big concern is frying my mines ecu so i dont want to just ground a wire and see what happens.. any ideas??

just had a sensor shaft snap after this mod. the pics arent working can someone explain the 180degrees out for the locator pin for me? i didnt do any of that and maybe thats why it snaped. i just pressed the cog on and installed.

whats the FSM page for this? i couldnt find it

anyone? if Linluv figures something out and shares my car might get fixed

yea i didnt over tighten the bolt. just until it bottemed out. but yea, theres definately a slight bend in the connection thats for sure. the center sits in deeper then the ends of the plug.. how would i fix this??

so last summer i was having an issue with my fuel pump not priming and i had to just reselect the key to "on" a couple times and it would kick on and fire up. well at the end of the summer it was getting worse and worse and now it wont turn on the pump at all. The fuel pump relay is FINE. If i ground the ecu signal wire at the relay the relay clicks and pump turns on (the car wont run this way though. ecu doesnt want to give spark like this). The ecu is not sending the signal anymore. loose wire maybe? nope. here's the weird part, checking continuity between signal wire and ground, with ignition to "off" i have closed circuit and when i select ignition to "on" the circuit opens. so the ecu is basically doing the opposite of what it is supposed to do. im skeptical that it is anything to do with the wiring, i did the harness conversion myself soldered/heat shrink all connections. Not to mention i drove it for a year and a half probably about 7000km including a trip down to the states with no issues at all. i think something is loose within the ecu, every signal being sent from ecu is intermittent and sporadic. the nissan datascan will only connect sometimes, before when it wasn't so bad i could connect nissan datascan use that to turn the pump on then start the engine. now when ever i do manage to connect and turn the pump off it will fire up for a second then shut off and loose connection with datascan. i took the ecu apart and had a look, nothing looks melted or anything. gave the larger grounding points a light sand and added a good grounding wire to case ground it. no change. also with ignition in "on" if i move around the ecu the pump will sporadically turn on almost like a flutter its so fast.. any ideas?????? what are my options?

does anyone know any good wreckers that ship to canada???

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As stated above I need a boost sensor for my NEO motor. I have found similar models online but they are PS65-01 or PS64-01 models. Will these work or does anyone have one they will sell me? actual part number for the sensor is 22365-6P500 and its a PS66-01

As stated above I need a boost sensor for my NEO motor. I have found similar models online but they are PS65-01 or PS64-01 models. Will these work or does anyone have one they will sell me? actual part number for the sensor is 22365-6P500 and its a PS66-01

one of the guys on gtrc said its a n/a gts cluster they had a battery instead of boost which makes sense. skym: "As far as I know, the 260km/h speedo is rare, because Nismo don't sell them anymore. Battery gauge in corner = GTS cluster. Boost gauge in corner = GTS-T cluster. Also grey face = Series 2 R32 cluster and blue face = Series 1 R32 cluster. What would worry me is the calibration for speedo part of cluster, but that can be sorted via playing with gearbox end of speedo cable. Probably worth it to check circuit board on back of cluster for calibration info of original cluster (should be printed on circuit board). Also Tomei did make a 300km/h speedo (seen the blue face version on a mates R32 GTS-T). But these days Do Luck make them for Series 1 and 2 R32, up to 320km/h and displays mph as well up to 200mph -"

what do you guys think of this cluster?? i picked it up on ebay for a pretty good price. a 260 km/hr nismo cluster with battery gauge for hcr32 it has a blue backing and the one in my car is blue so it should work. after i bought it, i was trying to find other GTS nismo cluster like this one online and the only ones i could find had the boost gauge at the top left. I have an aftermarket boost gauge and no battery gauge so this is perfect. I thought maybe some genius modded a battery gauge from a GTR triple gauge unit but then noticed the battery logo is in a different spot. what do you guys make of this?? i hope its some rare goodness

any luck?? also looking for one. close up pic of the badge would be nice

ok so ive managed to get mine working after all this. the wiring ended up being the issue with a short on a couple sensors. i seen some guys were complaining about the air con not remembering the temp they set it at when turning key off. in the FSM the is actually a STEP 6. when in step 5 press the fan button to enter step 6 and you can turn memory on/off and also correct the temp +/- 3 degrees