ransom91

ok i did then learning when the car was warm and it didnt nearly stall when i did it however it did return to around 650 and returned there after reving, however once i turned the car off and restarted it, it went back to idle at 900-1000.

i was doing the rocker cover gasket and spark plugs and noticed it was ugly looking so i sprayed some brake cleaner on a rag and cleaned inside it, after i did it i found a topic saying do not move the butterfly..

hey i have recently cleaned my throttle body on my 2001 M35 stagea, and now it wont idle correctly. i did the relearning and it still hasnt changed. now what its doing is when i start the car it revs up to 2000 then down to 1500 then back up to 2000 then rests at 1200 and slowly moves down to 800-900, it only does that when it is hot tho, when cold it just revs to 2000 then sits at 1200. the other problem is when driving arond 60km and i release the accelerator the revs drop down to 600 and the car engine brakes hard then it jumps back up to 1200-1400, its also using more fuel then usual. does anyone have any clue what is going wrong? cheers

Won't be able to make it car isn't running how I like

BUMP 100$ i have to have this gone by next week.. will post!!

allgood buddy, its really not as hard as it looks. i came from fords to nissans with small mechanical know how and so far i have done the rocker cover gasket, spark plugs and pulled the drive shafts out and put them back in. its quite easy to work on

i made a DIY if this helps http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/409966-m35-stagea-diy-rocker-cover-gasket/

just got the details, if the car is ready ill come for the meeting point, just dont have the money for fuel after fixing the car...

oh and doing this is also a great time to do the sparkplugs

M35 passenger side rocker cover gasket DIY i hold no responsibility for any person hurt or cars damaged while using this DIY tutorial. tools needed: 1/4 socket set (10mm, 12mm, extensions and knuckle) 10mm spanner magnet (so you dont lose bolts) flat head screwdriver super RTV silicone (you dont have to use this) degreaser or brake cleaner rags scraper rocker cover gasket 1. remove engine cover, then remove intake pipe both sides, stuff rags inside the intercooler pipe so not to lose bolts. undo surrounding plugs and place out of the way (if you can) 2. then get the 12mm socket and undo the plenum bolts, and behind the plenum use a 10mm spanner to remove a small bracket. once undone you should be able to pull the plenum aside and get to the rocker cover bolts. 3. once you can see the rocker cover clearly, remove the coil packs (make sure to mark the plugs so u know which goes where) now get the 10mm socket with extension and start to remove the rocker bolts, use the magnet to catch the bolts, you will encounter 3 that can be hard to get to (the back left corner under the hose and the next 2 towards the front of the car, make sure you dont drop them) the bolt is under this hose 4. now use a flat head at the front of the rocker cover and gently pry it upwards until the seal brakes, then remove the rocker cover, and put some rags over the exposed engine. 5. then get a rag with some degreaser or brake cleaner and clean the sealing area on the engine (mine had some grey silicone on the front which had to be scraped off), then degrease the rocker cover and clean the edge (i used the corner of a rag and ran around the inside of the seal point) 6. once the rocker cover is clean, fit the rocker cover gasket inside the rocker cover and use some silicone in the corners to help it stay in place, wait a minute or two so the silicone hold better. then put the rocker cover back on the engine (you will need to lift the hose at the back to make it easyer) once it is in place and you have checked that it hasnt falling out of place. you can then put the bolts back in place being careful not to drop them (magnet helps) and tighten. then reverse steps 2 and 1. ok im pretty sure thats everything you need to know about doing the rocker cover, just remember to remove the plenum i tryed to do it without removing it, it didnt work.

well just rang SA suspension and they said they usually leave "Dick in the box" quote from the bloke there. which means i just cut the stainless tie off the boot and pull it out...

im getting them reconditioned because the cv's are clicking and grinding.

im trying to remove my front CV shafts and i cannot move the passenger side one from the gear box... any help is good help (except for " should of taken it to a mechanic") cheers

Haha yeah well as soon as I had a chance to get one I did lol Ey what's your dads business name? Trying to figure out if I've been there itlol

yay parts in my color! PM sent

haha nice nice, you wouldnt of come to tonkins bout a yr and a half ago looking for a radiator would you? i remember someone coming in with a m35 looking for a radiator and at the time we couldnt find anything to suit, but i remember lookin at the stagea and thinking "dam this is nice i wouldnt mind getting one" i think it was what made me want one.. lol

haha when you find the right number ill fix it LOL im feeling lazy too.. ahhk then yeah ill keep that in mind. i work at COR Cooling in wingfield, its 3 radiator companys that got bought out by a larger one. it was tonkin radiators, motor radiators and southstate radiators. idk if you knew any of them lol but we dont do cars anymore i mean i could get you a radiator but we dont fit em.. been getting into the big truck and mining equipment radiators

Z201 fuel filter removed NGK sparkplug number added

i will remove the fuel filter from the list then however im not sure on the balljoints i found the part number on here http://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/cart/products-page/nissan-stagea-m35 and with the radiator i have found topics that say it does fit and some saying it doesnt, but my job is a radiator technician and i have looked up the V35 radiator and measured and checked against the stagea and i can find no reason why it wouldnt fit straight in. ill hunt down the NGK part number thanks mate

im keen to know too but as an add on does anyone know what is the best way to flush the attessa system?

hey all i know there are part numbers and what not around the site however i couldn't find a topic with just a M35 part list. so i did some roaming around and wrote a list of part numbers. feel free to add any parts. its just to make it easier for people to find what they need. oil filter: Z445 N-OE:AY100-NS004 oil: 5w40-10w40-10w30?? air filter: A360 N-OE: AY100-NS001 AC belt: 4PK950 drive belt: 6PK1180 N-OE: 11720-4P102 spark plugs: IKH22 N-OE: NI22401-AQ816 fuel filter: Z201 N-OE: 16400-4M405 F wheel bearing N-OE: 40210-AL800 R wheel bearing N-OE: 43210-AL505 drivers rocker gasket N-OE: 13270-AQ800 passenger rocker cover gasket N-OE: 13270-AL612 crankshaft sensor N-OE: 23731-AL60C mass air flow sensor N-OE: 22680-6N21A power window LHF N-OE: 80731-AL501 power window RHF N-OE: 80730-AL501 Swaybar link balljoint N-OE: 54618-AQ305 swaybar link LHF N-OE: 54668-AQ300 swaybar link RHF N-OE: 54618-AQ300 new nissan turbo N-OE: 14411-AQ800 steering rack Tie rod end LHS N-OE: 48640-AL585 steering rack Tie rod end RHS N-OE: D8520-AL585 thermostat N-OE: 21200-31U13 Radiator: same as V35 skyline turbo dump pipe gasket N-OE: 14445-4P200

thanks mate that will help a bit. but yeah if no one has got a DIY ill make one up but its just another part of my fun weekend i have planned lol

hey im about to do my rocker cover gasket on my M35 stagea and im just wondering if anyone has a How To on removing and replacing it. just to make it easyer for myself cheers

well i may or may not be coming on this.. im pulling the CV shafts out this week end to be reconditioned then putting em back in on the weekend after.. so if all goes well ill have it running by sunday if not i wont be able to make it

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