R34

Don't forget about the 34's hey....13.6 auto;)

Anyone want them come and pick them up Perth only obviously Cheers Chris

Any dyno will do for me as I don't have a problem with any of them. Would be nice to have one set up with a big screen though so we all can see the action as it happens. Cheers Chris

Bump

I'm up for it. Mid December suits me. Is there a trophy for the highest output auto 34?

There is something between the AFC/ITC and PFC. That's the emanage...I'm still having teething problems with it re timing control but that's something pecular to the 34. They are an amazing bit of gear when fully optioned and even include a boost cut override option which you'd have to buy separately if going with the S-AFC 14.0 for 400m with S-AFC....13.6secs with partially tuned emanage(Car feels like it's good for low 13's with more practice) The emanage really smoothed out the power curve of the 34 and produced more power down low because it's that more acurate The S-AFC is great for minor mods but I understand that the ITC is not really necessary on a 33. All the S-AFC does is go between the AFM and the ECU to change the input signal signal to the ECU to "fool" it into thinking that it is elsewhere in the load map and thereby adjusting the injector output. Cheers See ya tonight

Don't mean to be controversial but an S-AFC/ITC combo is nowhere near a PFC for engine management. They are very very crude devices by comparison.(but very effective for what they are) The reason they don't sell the ITC's anymore is that if you are going to the trouble to control the ignition as well as fuel you are better off with a PFC Cheers Chris

My rear tyres were old and super hard bridgestones 225/45-17's inflated to 32psi Boost pressure is set at 0.8 bar Cheers Chris

Steve Who did you sleep with to get that price? Best price I could get was $1320 from Beaurepaires in Perth area.

Joe that's terrible....you should be using a 1 wood

Phone RTV Computers and ask for Roderick. Ph 9325 6666 Nice guy but don't think the kinky sex will win him over. He bought my R34 PFC but the hand unit will work with what you've got Cheers Chris

Fairly busy night at Kwinana tonight. Only got 3 runs in total:( First run was a [email protected] here we go another dissapointing night in the 14's Tyres are a bit hard so did my first ever burnout there (if you could call it that) on the second run and shocked the hell outta me got a [email protected]:) Third run was the best [email protected] kph:eek: Now I'm a happy man Go the slushmatic!

Depends on what you want to spend really Yokohama AVS V102 Goodyear Revspec Dunlop FM901's (cheaper.) Talk to Kosteras tyres in Kalamunda for advice. They can supply tyres just this side of race rubber if you want to go down that path Cheers

I got done a couple of months ago at that same location. In fact I drove the other way first and specifically looked for it (as seen it there before) but saw nothing. Five minutes later travelling the other way got pinged for 76 in a 70 zone which in itself is a bit rough. Anyway there was no way a sign was placed there.

Yes Lumpy is the only one ATM $150 per hour is about average for dyno time. Could be the best $150 any of us spends if it produces more power and or stops an engine grenading.

No wrong again your memory seems off a little. We told you that a mid 13 to 13.7(see your claim above) was highly unlikely with your setup as no one else has managed those figures without more mods than you have. There is a BIG difference between 13.xx(13.999) and a 13.7 Now please shutup about it and go do a 13.5 - 13.7 before posting anything again on this thread. Then we'll all happily FOAD for you

No one has given you crap about running a 14.5. Now read this carefully All we are saying is that with your current setup you'll get low 14's not mid 13's say 13.7 that you keep spouting on about. If you change your tyres to stickier ones ,change the suspension for traction etc etc just to prove us all wrong then you have changed your current setup...geddit? We are all here to help you but you seem to know better and or won't listen.

In basic form it would work like a S-AFC There is so much more potential there it would be a shame not to use it. Plus even in basic form you'd have to put it on the dyno then again once you buy the additional harnesses. Talk to Lumpy he'd be the best to get advice on what to do.

No the $500 is as I said for the fit and tune only. The unit is extra. The base unit maybe $410 from Nengun but can he get the injector and ignition harnesses as well? Takes a while to wire them up as they are not as basic as the AFC where you only cut one wire. There are about 20 odd wires to cut into. Plus dyno time is about $150 per hour.

I'm in QV1 so I'll meet you on the way

Rob Troy is running an AFC whereas you're not. He's probably running with 40kw more than your car. Without either a lot more power or a lot of work in the traction department you will not see 13.7 I hope you can prove me wrong and I'll be the first to congratulate you. Then I can FOAD whatever the hell that means:)

I'll be there Maybe we should all go and give a cheer at the appropriate moment. I was going to send the bloke a present....soap on a rope

Rob I think you're being a little optimistic hoping for a 13.7 with your setup. In reality you would be looking at a best of 14.2-14.3 Cheers Chris

Don't know the cost as have not received the bill yet but assume $500 for fit and tune

I have the basic unit only left over. If you fit that it works as a AFC unit like the Apexi If you buy the injector harness it works almost like a programmable unit for fuel (which is how I'm using it at present) Then you can buy the ignition harness to control timing (which I have but doesn't work yet) Unless you have access to a dyno and know what you're doing don't bother with buying the software as Lumpy has it and can install and tune it for you.