sadr33

yes both at the same shop. it is a mechanical machine so no before after printout. it's possible the bushes are worn so they don't keep settings but frustrating that after new tie end rods and alignment car drives much worse than before. maybe i should try some toe in to see if it feels like before. im just going to try do my own adjustment

check the radius rod bushes that keep your caster and also your tie rods.

Everything has a dead zone, strut bars are no different. Even metal compresses and flexes in varying ammounts depending on load, especially the bolts. Close to that dead zone, when load is applied in either direction that load initally meets less resistance with the frist few minute movements comapred to past these minute movements. So if you pre load the bar you are moving away from this dead zone and any load will meet a higher initial resistance in one direction but not the other. Somebody will have a tougher time beinding a stick of bamoo if its already being held beint in one direction that another. The downside is they will have a much easier time going in the other direction. Now whether you want the strut bar to strech or pull I dont know. Maybe this is why its best not to preload the bar. You dont know which direction is beneficial. pesonally I would pull it together SLIGHTLY, i.e shotern in a littltle. Not much is needed as the dead zone is small by the way.

I'm not sure if you guys are all familiar with the ackerman principle, but bassicaly on all passsenger cars when you turn the wheels left, the left wheel turns more than the right, and vice versa. Bassically giving you a "toe out" setup around corners to maintain true rolling motion Heres a good video clearly explaining this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVx_bgI7Ojw&feature=related Would putting in wrong lenths tie ends alter this in an way? Trying to imagine this in my head, using wrong tie end lenths would alter the ammount of toe in toe out setting, but should not affect the ackerman principle? These are the ones I got http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230854661059?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 For a 1993 gtst When the mechanic put the new ones in he counted the same number of turns as the old one and the car came of the hoist with massive toe in. about 5cm on each side. Now 2 wheel alligments later the car feels sloppy when driving straight and wanders on the roads. I know the road geomertry affects all this but it was defintely not like this before messing with the suspension. In fact it was beatifull and confidence inspiring. Now, For example when braking and accelrating, its just pulling and pushing the wheel in weird ways. the car generally doesnt feel as compotent. Its gone from solid on straights and corners to sloppy and unpredictable in the same roads, same conditions. I asked for 0 0 toe and i ONLY had the front 2 wheels adjusted or touched. After the Ffrst alligment, steering wheel was off to the left, second time and whats its on now its off to the right. But even if I were to centre the wheel it still feel sloppy and wonders. I just wish I left the car alone as the old tie end rods were ok to me,. the only reason I changed them is mechanic said boot is busted.

hi. where do you live? ive got a few offers just trying to pick closest one. comes with all attachments? how much do you want for snorkle and and box or box. btw your pm is full you can't receive message s

sorry gts t

Sydney area. with screws preferably.

Ali, do you guys give "good" 4 wheel alignment ? Took a Mazda 4 Wheel steer car to bob Jane a few years ago and they completely stuffed it as they didn't lock the rear wheels when doing the alignment . 4 wheel steer light came on and car drove like a crab. Never again. My dad also has a gts-t with hicas not locked out thats off center to drive, let me know if there is a preferred time to bring it so you can have a look at it and do a wheel alignment. I'll Pm you.

Yup I did sort it out ali, thanks for the reply. I was thinking of pulling over and calling a friend to bring tools but with the side skirts being low, lying in traffic etc I just hoped I'd be ok to the nearest wheel shop and kept driving. Today just got a front wheel alignment. Its straight now, but definitely different than before. Not sure if the brand new tie end rods would make a difference, if its the new alignment settings, or some of the bushes bent after driving under toe out pressure for a day and need some time to resettle again. I encounter a bit more resistance to turn the wheel left to right from centre, and a bit more effort to corner is needed compared to before. Perhaps there was a tinybit of toe out originally I was not aware, and this time I asked for 0 0 toe on the front. Anyway I am happy with the alignment, its dead center (it was originally) I'll leave the car alone for now, but there are some more bushes, sway bars etc I think need replacing in the future as there is some slack.

Praaisssee the son of rajab for that. R32 to R34 are my one of my most loved cars along with some 90s mazdas. New cars just seem to lifeless to me, not that I have the money to afford a good new car. I just got a R33 but I feel like the car has been dragged out of hell with a chain.

Its amazing how skylines tend to attract bodge jobs. One day I expect to see a broom fitted as a drive shaft.

From my experience, its usually a crank angle sensor or a bad ecu that causes this when the obvious has been ruled out. But first thing is first. You should verify you are getting optimum fuel pressure when cranking, fit a fuel pressure gauge or if you cbf unplug one of the fuel hoses after the fuel filter and see if yours squirts out when you prime it. Also make sure none of the earth points on your car are rusted or loose.

The mechanic I like wasn't there and someone else worked on my car. As for not damaging anything. I hope so, but I know the weird hum sound/vibration is not comforting and I also know how easy it is to upset something as far as steering goes. On an 90s mazda that wasnt worth getting a wheel alignment there was noticeable wandering all the time because of what I suspected was too much toe out at the front. I parked the car next to a kerb to my left. I gave the steering wheel a bit of a fling to the left so the most forward part of the tires hits the kerb. I did the mirror to the right. Mind you, this was quiet a gentle process no loud noises or anything that's different to parking a car. Only the tire sidewall was contacting the kerb. Fixed the car right up and it never wandered again. So this was enough to near permanently change something on the car. I would imagine the forces that make a tires chirp going straight are higher?

I just had new tie end rods put it at a regular mechanic. I knew I needed a wheel alligment afterwards but I didn't know the toe would be so off that just driving it there is extremely bad. I think I'm Running a few degrees of toe out! So much that the car roams around like there's is 200kph crosswinds at 30kph and it chirps over every tiny bump i hit along the road. Its an incredible sensation of being pulled and pushed at the same time and i squirm at thinking what the suspension components are going through. I drove to 3 shops and they were all busy and couldn't do it today. Basically picked up the car at 3pm and couldn't find a place to do. After a few k of driving like a drunk on crack without hands, I started to hear a small hum hum sound like you are in the stern of a ship. I think I am grinding the hell out of the bearings? I am going to exceller steering in bankstown tommorow morning but even after I get it done I wonder what... I am fuming because i am trying to get the car running right in and I think I have just cost myself a lot of money and taken 3 steps back. My biggest gripe I cannot get over or ignore is anything thats loose or off in terms of steering and suspension. Etc worn bushings, dead zones, not body roll, but those little side to side wondering or looseness etc. Anything else I can stand but this keeps me up at night as I cant enjoy the car. So far I have changed a few bushings with poly whiteline parts and had all the chassis bolts tightened and it has really made the car so much more direct to drive. But now. Who knows. The car is a S1 R33 gts-t