Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, this is new to me. a new forum topic. hope it doesn't get snowed under...

I just picked up my 1990 gts-4 from compliance (in Melbourne). Nice, started straight away.

Drove round the corner to put in 20L of fuel... Again, no problem starting.

Got home and couldn't re-start the thing.

It had plenty of time to cool down (if its not on boost, there is no need to leave it running to cool the turbo, right?)

Occasionally it will briefly (1/2 a second) tick over, but then it dies.

It has been suggested to me that it is fuel starvation. Fuel filter is top of the "I can do it" list. Mechanic is second (and an RWC). Is there any way I can check it? Or are there any other ideas / theories?

I just don't get why it worked before and not now. Talk about deflating expectations

And yes, I tried the search button. 'search flooding', according to the server. I don't get it - I am sure that I have seen these type of posts many a time before. Oh well, If I have transgressed, I am sure I will be told.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100047-rb20det-wont-start/
Share on other sites

when it doesn't start what are the symptoms you see/hear?

do the lights go dim? does it cough and splutter?

does it tound like it wants to start but simply doesnt?

do you hear the fuel pump prime when u turn to acc and on?

starter mortor turns over

most of the time nothing, and then it will splutter for a second and die.

to me it sounds like it wants to start

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition on

One of the warning lights comes on -

S S S

_____

== ===

-----

left of the 'open door' light, and under the '4wd' light. I don't know what it is, and it *may* be relevant.

I get off at 2 today (home at 3), so I'll be checking it out then.

thanks

Edited by ebola

You dont have an alarm do you? My parents SS did the same thing.. would start, die, start, die.

Disconnected the battery and it worked fine after that, though it was the imoboliser doing it. Maybe check all your fuses.... thats where i'd start, then the obvious filters, etc.

Dayne

My car has no alarm, and I had already checked the fuses.

Your suggestion about the filters is close though.

The airbox was hardly connected to the turbo intake. Check the filter, knock the pipe off, engine wont start, post on SAU, look dumb, re-connect hose, clamp the thing on PROPERLEY, smooth as anything.

First bit of fun with my new car. Woo Hoo!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions though, all filed away for future reference.

you got spark right? if not id say igntion module... memba ur car needs three things.. spark air fuel.... fuel, could be ur fuel reg

spark.. make sure ur CAS is connected correctly. manual or auto?

need to give us more info dude

My car has no alarm, and I had already checked the fuses.

Your suggestion about the filters is close though.

The airbox was hardly connected to the turbo intake. Check the filter, knock the pipe off, engine wont start, post on SAU, look dumb, re-connect hose, clamp the thing on PROPERLEY, smooth as anything.

First bit of fun with my new car. Woo Hoo!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions though, all filed away for future reference.

you got spark right? if not id say igntion module... memba ur car needs three things.. spark air fuel.... fuel, could be ur fuel reg

spark.. make sure ur CAS is connected correctly. manual or auto?

need to give us more info dude

I meant that I got my car working. Though as usual, my statements are as clear as mud.

spark, air and fuel.

could smell the fuel (so there was some), and the fact that it would splutter for a second or two implied ignition (and compression).

I had forgotten about air.

I had checked the paper element in the air filter (needs replacing, but not urgently), and it seems the hose clamp wasn't on properly. The hose had come off the airbox. I guess I'm lucky it stayed put driving it home.

Because there was no air flow through the MAF sensor, it wasn't starting. I guess when it went for 1/2 a second the vibration of the motor being turned made it line up briefly.

Its a manual, and as it was a simple *stupid* thing, I have not taken the CAS module off to check it. RWC, rego, THEN I get to play.

Again, thanks to the people on the forum for helping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...