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Stumbling At Acceleration When Warm, Basically Run

george.bryant
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george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

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Recently my car has started doing some funny stuff. Its running pretty rough on startup, kinda feels like its missing or something. And on acceleration it stumbles kinda and feels like a subaru. I've checked the spark plugs and they were ok except for #6 which had quite a bit of oil build up on it and smelt like unburnt fuel. I cleaned them all to see if that was the problem. Put them back in car and started it and it ran good for about 1 minute then started doing its stumbly thing at idle... I had a play with the ignition timing aswell to try to see if i could set it straight, found a good setting for timing with the 10psi that i run so thats ok. But after driving that car for about 20 minutes it just got even more stumbly, but on boost you dont even notice it.

I put a new distributor cap on yesterday aswell. the car is also drinking water slowly. Using about 400ml a day (i just topped it up with more or shell's coolguard). My lead are about 4 months old, one day i noticed they were leaking spark so i taped them up and i never noticed it again.

Is the problem that i need new leads? Or what. I used to get a vacuum or between 17-18 at idle. Now its at like 14-16. Thats why i set the ignition timing. I dont know what to do. I have a feeling headgasket might be cracked somewhere as my water looked very mildly contaminated but my oil looks fine (its about 3 months old).

Help....

Regards, George.

hgc211 turbo Apprentice

hgc211 turbo

Posted
Posted

check all injector plugs, or possible injector jammed open?? check all electrical plugs etc. possibly blown head gasket, does it run rough every time you start it, does it get any better once been running for a couple of minutes??

V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

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sticky valve, or blown head gasket.....ive had this problem a few times.....id be changing the head gasket, you get the bonus of getting to check out the bores while the head is off...

do a compression test first tho, just to be sure

a sticky valve will still fire, it just wont make any power from that cylinder.....and will appear to smooth out at higher revs

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

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Too make matters worst, last night after i got everything back together and went for a drive to test it out, it seemed to be running ok. Driving down the motorway i hit 105 and hear something in the back go clunk (not a big clunk but enough to notice it, and sounded like a tool falling off and hitting the ground [but i wasnt using a tool or doing anything to the diff]). It got pretty bad but only at 1550 rpm to 2150rpm on coasting, it was making this noise like a a broken gear, kinda like a clock ticking but also clunking it was pretty mild. Anyway i needed my vehicle so had to keep driving and couldnt really just stop on the motor way.

I drove 15 km to SuperCheap Auto spares to get a new spark plug and lead for #6. As i was pulling into their carpark it started to misfire and was heating up pretty bad. Looked in the coolant bottle and it was pretty gross looking in there. Was contaminated with oil about 10%.

I went and got the lead and plug, i put the lead on and drove home. It was a horrible drive, i was trying not to hit boost at all but i hit it once and big cloud of white smoke shot out the back. I thought "there goes the head gasket". The rest of the drive for about 13km involved horrible noises coming from the rear end (the ticking clunk noise) and and feeling insane amounts of heat coming throught he firewall and my heater system. I pulled into the garage and gave it a little rev and there i saw the white looking steamy **** again. which i experience at pretty much the same time last year on this same motor.

I've learnt alot since then and reckon i could change the gasket and i probly should as about 4-5months ago i sealed a leak with a chemiweld radiator additive as when my old radiator was in the process of blowing up, it caused a water leake between the head and the block and water was spraying out between the two.

Is it worth changing the gasket? I reckon it is since i cannot afford a new motor at the moment.

I have a spare head but i need to get it crack tested, and ive taken out the cam so i need to know how to put that back in and align everything up. The thing that daunts me with taking the head off my motor is that I do not know how to get the timing chain off correctly, or set its timing again. And im freaked out that I wont be able to get it running or something stupid will happen, or that ill get it all back together and itll overheat and blow a gasket again. I know how much of a bitch it is to get the manifolds off these motors (L20et) but i'm on holidays for 2 weeks and i have another car to use so i was thinking id give it a go.

So i was wondering what you guys think?

And was hoping you'd all be willing to advice me on what i need to do.

Regards, George

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  • 4 months later...
george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

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yo george,

Just wondering if the problem was actually the head gasket? And if so whats nissan's price :P

Cheers.

Yep headgasket blown. Nissan...lol. It would be heaps from them probly.

I went to repco and it was like NZD$22

George

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted
I just gotta figure out if this is my problem, got the same symtoms.... I did do a quick comp test and got 4x 110 ratings and 2x 120 ratings, dont know if thats good for the 7.3:1 comp ratio :P

they are even test pressures so you have nothing to worrie about. mine with 400,000k on it got 140 on all 6. :(.

Clean all your plugs ect. ecy everything. its common for the nissan gremlin (green crap) to upset the connections. I had this happen after doing the head gasket with running lean on boost. Took a few days to try the simple job of unpluging the ecu and pluging it back in... Whee ran mint again

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