Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just wondering if any one out there has rebuilt there stock turbo?

I am sick of worrying about the ceramic turbo and was thinking about rebuilding it as i don't want to break the bank and get a new one.

How much would this cos?

What benefits?

What would be done to the turbo?

Thanks heaps guys...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10094-rebuilding-stock-turbo/
Share on other sites

G'day blx,

Why are you worried about destroying the ceramic wheel? How much boost are you running? What sort of hp figure are you chasing.

If you want to run higher boost, say above 12-14lbs, then it may be a good idea. If you are happy with 10lbs with a stock coola, or 12-14 with a front mount, your turbo is probably quite safe (I say probably because there are never any guarantees.).

If you do want to do a rebuild, just remeber you get what you pay for - I have heard of a few horror stories - so do a bit of research, be ready to pay $2k+ for a decent job, roughly, you may get it done cheaper, but it depends on what exactly you are chasing.

If you want to have a look at some rebuild options, gcg have a website with a couple of rebuilt R33 turbo packages, which members on this site have spoken highly of.

The main thing to consider here is what sort of performance you are after from the car, and if you want more than the stock turbo will provide, get it upgraded then. for example I have just over 200rwkw on the stock turbo, which is about the limit, but if its enough for you upgrading the turbo would be a waste of money IMHO

Steve

Gday blx

Lot of info on this topic if you search for it.....

But basically besides what Steve has justy mentioned,

you have alot of variables here u havent told us like what u want out of it and how much u want to spend...

Considering u put steel/alluminium wheels back in this straight away introduces lag because of the increased weight.

The ball bearing cores dont seem to be rebuildable! Even tho ppl say they are, what they usually do is bolt your covers and new wheels onto a new core!

I have had my turbo's re built twice, at Garrett at Chipping Norton Syd.

It costs $350 to clean and reseal each turbo.

To high flow turbo from 43mm compressor wheel to 47.5 mm $200

To replace compressor wheel $600.

Steel shaft kit was I think $400.

I think that’s about right. Look them up or ask for there number at anyone of the performance shops, but really looking at those costs it would have been best to but an after market HKS 2535 or similar Ball bearing turbo.

You can get a number of good 2nd hand bb turbo for around $2000 which seem to be about the same price as a good highflow job anyway.

While highflow is tempting, an aftermarket turbo that has been fully engineered the way it is for xxx HP seems to make more sense to me. Hiflowing seems to be a bit hit and miss from people who have had it done. Some people get good results and swear by it, others end up having to get theirs rebuilt a 2nd time because something has failed.

Originally posted by Doctor

Go aftermarket as you get a better turbo and then you can sell your stock one and get some $ back on your new purchase.

Doc has hit the nail on the head.

Get a second hand turbo (HKS 2535 would be nice :) ) for around the $2-2000 mark, then if your stock one is in good shape you might get $5-600 for it.

Sweeeetttttt.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...