Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Had some dudes had a look my car the other day and noticed my camber was funny. Which is strange because I just had a wheel alignment and haven't been sliding the car (no gutter/ripple strip incidents!!).

Basically I'm going to adjust the driver side with what appears to be no camber visually to be the same as the other side.

I have camber plates and basically wanted to know if I undid the 4 "bolts" that hold the coilover to the camber plate - is the weight of the wheel going to stop it from being able to be adjusted?

Also - should the wheel I'm doing be suspended from the ground? My only assumption there is if it's suspended it's going to naturally be making it positive camber... in which case should I get a mate to hold the wheel weight up while screwing the holder things in?

Yes. I'm too cheap and busy to go get a wheel alignment place to do it. Anyone have any tips?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101604-how-to-adjust-front-camber-manually/
Share on other sites

I'm no expert but I would not recomend trying to do allingments by eye.

Make sure you know how to adjust camber in a car with wishbone suspension (I presume your talking about a skyline) and rephrase your 3rd paragraph.

The sort of questions your asking suggest you should get a shop to do it anyway.

The only time I attempted to do any allignment by eye was when I fitted a HICAS lock bar - and that was just so I drive it down the road to get the final allignment professionally.

Sorry I could not be more help. Someone more informed will prolly point you in the right direction.

3rd paragraph edited.

Forgot to mention it's a cefiro so the front end is like a silvia. I don't believe it's nearly as hard to change a few deg of camber with camber plates than it is on a skyline.

All I'm trying to get an answer to is - if I undo the bolts holding my coilover to the camber plate will it be impossible to push it in for more camber because of the weight of the car on the coilover?

All I'm trying to get an answer to is - if I undo the bolts holding my coilover to the camber plate will it be impossible to push it in for more camber because of the weight of the car on the coilover?

Nope, just jack it up, undo the lock nuts/bolts and give the top a tap inwards (for more negative camber) with a plastic/rubber hammer.

The naked eye is not always a good judge of camber. So on a flat surface (garage floor is ok), stick a spirit level at the bottom on the tyre, get it vertical (via the bubble) and measure (with a ruler) from the spirit level to the tyre. Go around and do the same on the other side. If the measurements are the same then the camber will be pretty close, beter than a guess anyway.

You could work out how much camber that is with some high school pythagorus.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
×
×
  • Create New...