Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i own a Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec 2. Modifications include- HKS down pipe, Nismo de-cat exhaust system, Apexi power intake air filters, Mine's ecu, Blitz boost controller. I did a dyno test and the car is 425bhp (engine) and 315bhp (wheels). My target is to get as much as possible with stock intercooler, turbo, injectors and clutch. Hopefully around 450bhp (engine).

Previously i was contemplating whether to change the Mines ecu to a Power FC or a FconV pro. But i think its too costly.

My mechanic advised me to change my camshaft to HKS 264 cams and a fuel regulator (to increase the fuel supply). Maybe a SAFC to fine tune a little. Later perhaps changing my head gasket as well if i have cash to spare. He said this will give me around 450bhp. He said changing the the cams would also give me more torque (is this true?)

Thanks for ure advice.

Edited by GTRnewbie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102868-camshafts-question/
Share on other sites

Hi guys, i own a Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec 2. Modifications include- HKS down pipe, Nismo de-cat exhaust system, Apexi power intake air filters, Mine's ecu, Blitz boost controller. I did a dyno test and the car is 425bhp (engine) and 315bhp (wheels). My target is to get as much as possible with stock intercooler, turbo, injectors and clutch. Hopefully around 450bhp (engine).

Previously i was contemplating whether to change the Mines ecu to a Power FC or a FconV pro. But i think its too costly.

My mechanic advised me to change my camshaft to HKS 264 cams and a fuel regulator (to increase the fuel supply). Maybe a SAFC to fine tune a little. Later perhaps changing my head gasket as well if i have cash to spare. He said this will give me around 450bhp. He said changing the the cams would also give me more torque (is this true?)

Thanks for ure advice.

Your statement is a little confusing. You can afford a 34 V-spec 2, but a power FC and tune is too costly? You want to keep stock injectors, but have cams and change head gasket?

You didnt mention where you are from, so i will assume Australia. Ditch the Mines ECU, forget SAFC, Go the Power FC and re-tune. I doubt the stock injectors will make the desired power (and definetly DO NOT get a fuel pressure reg to bump up the pressure. If the injectors are maxed there maxed)

If you want this power

*Change Injectors 550 - 700's (700 will save you doing them again if you want more power later)

*Get a Power FC and get a reputable tuner

*Stock Intercooler is fine

*Cam Gears

*If they are steel wheel turbs (which i believe the Vspec 2 came out with) they can handle 1 - 1.2 bar boost

see how you go with that combo.

the turbos, injectors and afms will be your limiting factors at round 400rwhp(480bhp)

order of best buys for returns in hp

1.APEXI pfc ($1000) with hand controller A MUST!!!!!

2.SARD 700cc injectors($700) i would replace afms at same time a set of rb20/25afms ($300 sec hand)

3. TOMEI poncams 260deg 9.15mm lift with adjustable wheels (~$1300)

*forget about head gasket unless you blow one as it is a hugh costly job and will give you next to nothing at this level of mod.

*do the cams last as if you dont upgrade the injectors and afms first you will not be able use them to there fullest and there for waste time and money tuning.

*the r34 turbos are ceramic and i would not run them above 1.1bar at the very most unless you want to rebuild the motor like the r34 i just finished rebuild due to a blow r34 ball bearing turbo.

*if you get serious about a bit hp upgrade your turbos to something like gt2560r 707160-5 or the 2530 HKS as they are bolts and give the best around package power and responce

pete

Ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding.

I thought it went:

ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching...

PurpleR32, I believe your comment about the FPR and maxed out injectors is incorrect (and it's "they're maxed out"). If you increase the pressure behind the injector, then more fuel will be released when the injector opens. Therefore, you can reduce the duty cycle of the injector at higher fuel pressures. I have read somewhere that this is a far more efficient means of extending the power than by increasing the flow of the injectors; when delivering the same volume of fuel, the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, so the ability of the engine to combust the A/F mixture is enhanced.

I thought it went:

ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching...

PurpleR32, I believe your comment about the FPR and maxed out injectors is incorrect (and it's "they're maxed out"). If you increase the pressure behind the injector, then more fuel will be released when the injector opens. Therefore, you can reduce the duty cycle of the injector at higher fuel pressures. I have read somewhere that this is a far more efficient means of extending the power than by increasing the flow of the injectors; when delivering the same volume of fuel, the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, so the ability of the engine to combust the A/F mixture is enhanced.

Well im glad you read that you can do that and didnt actually do it. Becasue if you were aiming for that sort of power on stock injectors, your engine would be running so lean its not funny, or the injector would have failed due to stress on the component (stayed open continually injecting fuel) causing it to bend a rod.

The trouble with what is written above is that your dont want to deliver the same volume of fuel. It is correct in saying the the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, but that assumes it is within the capabilities of that smaller injector. In this case it is not within the capabilities of that injector. You want to deliver more fuel than standard (or what is currently being delivered) to safely attain the desired power and A/F Ratio.

You have to be very carefull with increasing fuel pressure to achieve an increae in flow. My fluid dynamics is a bit rusty, but what I do remember is that the flow increase is way less than the pressure increase.

For example, I have increased the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard Skyline fuel pressure) to 50 psi, that's a 35% increase in pressure. But the flow only increased by around 10%. I had to stop at 50 psi because the fuel pump (Bosch) was only rated for flow at 73.5 psi. That left 73.5 - 50 = 23.5 psi for boost.

In addition to the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I had to replace all of the fuel lines (from the tank to the engine) with braided lines and screw fittings, as the standard clamp on hoses were unable to handle the extra pressure. All up (including labour) it would have been almost cheaper to buy bigger injectors and then sell the GTR ones.

:D cheers :D

SK spot on as usual

but i will add that as you up the pressure on the pump its flow rate goes south down time, like a direction reverse of the flow/pressure relationship of the injector. If you increase the pressure the pump has to supply by 10% you will lose alot more than 10% total flow from the pump.

pete

ps my R33 gtr runing std fuel pump and std pressure on to 700cc injectors has made 530rwhp with duty cycle to spare on injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...