Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, miracles do happen, and in this case I finally got off my back side and made up a template for my cold air box.

All the pics, templates and instructions can be found here:

http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/

Any comments all welcome as I'm sure there are a few things I've left out that a few people might pick up on.

And if anyone has any input into the instructions please let me know and I'll add or modify them.

Thanks

Jayson

:burnout: :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1031-r33-gts-t-cold-air-box-template/
Share on other sites

BTW, I haven't studied it too carefully yet (no time at the moment), but where is your cold air feed. You aren't using the old intercooler pipe as you've got a stock one, right?

When I make this up, I'll use the old pipe as the cold air pipe, but I'm just curious how yours is set up.

Cheers,

Michael

Mine sucks air from around the headlight, but as well as that I've cut a 80-90mm hole in the inner guard (there's a few pics of it on the web site) just to make sure it get's enough air.

Using the stock hole where the intercooler pipe was would be perfect. Just make sure it breaths OK and the hole is big enough.

J

LOL - yepp, the site should be up for a while yet....

If anyone isn't confident on making one I can cut one and post them off. But as the metal has cost me some $$$, I'll have to ask for some money for the metal, my time, and postage.

But I'd say anyone would be able to make it using that template, the hardest part would be installing it. Just really fiddly more than anything.

J

so as for feeding the cold air into the enclosure

youve got a hole into the wheel arch and a hole in the engine bay where the intercooler pipe goes??

im worried about the box gtting enough air but also that the air it gets isnt full of dirt/moisture eg kicked off the wheel or sucked up too low to the ground....

any suggestions as to how to 'feed' the air into the enclosure?

otherwise good work with the template, im having to modify slightly for an R32 but will keep the cardboard thing if you wonah post that on your site as a reference for all us 32 guys!!

Adam 32,

Have a good look at the pics on my site, you see that I've still got both intercooler pipes in place and how the filter breathes.

The filter breathes through the front of the box (hasn't got a front on it) from around the headlight. And then I put a hole into the inner guard just incase.

If you haven't got a black plastic inner guard around your wheel then you might get some crap come up to the hole.

I've got my plastic guard in place and I've been running the box and filter like that for about 9 months and the filter is still almost like new (I check it every 5000km when I do an oil change).

J

i did a partition yesterday, worked really well. after a big freeway run i felt the filter and its dead cold!! so thanks for the ideas, i duno about performance increases but i guess it may get better as i up the boost, its gotah be doing something!

just have to find a way to make the aluminium more reflective rather than absorbant cos it gets bloody hot after a while!

  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Sorry guys, looks like that address isn't hosting the templates anymore :P

I've zipped the pics and instructions up into three zip files, just download them and extract them all.

When you print the templates, just make sure you print them in full A4 size so you keep the original size.

Cheers

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...