Jump to content
SAU Community

Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lite 2 1/16" Elec Water

r32_sky
 Share

Recommended Posts

r32_sky Contributor

r32_sky

Posted
Posted

Item: AutoMeter Pro Comp Ultra Lite 2 1/16" Electric Water Temperature #4337

Location: I am located in Murwillumbah NSW 2484, and from about middle of feb onwards i will be mostly in Brisbane.

Item Condition: Perfect, unopened condition. As this gauge is an unwanted present it is exactely as you would find it in the stores; brand new. The security seal is still present on the box!

Reason for Selling: This is an unwanted gift as i already have one in my car.

Price and Payment Conditions: I would like $100 plus postage which is probably around $10. Pickup is available

Extra Info: Included with the gauge is all the standard acceseries such as the sender unit, fittings and installation. I rang my local Autobarn for a price and for this exact gauge in the exact same condition as mine is $189.00.

Contact Details: Pm me here, or reply here.

Thanks

50_1_b.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By silviaz · Posted

      Thanks man, I appreciate that. I'll keep it in mind going forward, important to know.
    • MBS206
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • kevboost7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Consider yourself lucky it was just a bulb 
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Piggaz
      R33 GTR OEM parts + random parts and oils

      By Piggaz · Posted

      Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
×
×
  • Create New...