Jump to content
SAU Community

Loud "click" Noise When Ignition Is Turned Off?

85URK

By 85URK,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
Posted

hey guys, when i turn my ignition off, behind the passenger seat in rear panel trim (thats where it sounds like its coming from or the boot area) there is a loud "click" noise something like the sound of when u lock all your central locking, it all goes click at once, but its only when u turn off the ignition??? its got me stuffed, any one had this problem aswell, and what could it be???

thanx daz.

Pantera999 Contributor

Pantera999

Posted
Posted
hey guys, when i turn my ignition off, behind the passenger seat in rear panel trim (thats where it sounds like its coming from or the boot area) there is a loud "click" noise something like the sound of when u lock all your central locking, it all goes click at once, but its only when u turn off the ignition??? its got me stuffed, any one had this problem aswell, and what could it be???

thanx daz.

Holy shiezen, Im going for fuel pump just switching off... that ones a dilly of a pickle :)

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

  • 1 month later...
85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

yea post it up if you could, sorry i havent replied to this recently, i forgot all about it, just remembered today again. i though that it mite have sumthin to do with the seatbelts etc, but it was kinda wierd, bcoz it just started outta nowhere.... its pretty loud hey.

Edited by 85URK
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Pretty loud, yeah!

I haven't had it for a while now, because my alarm's turbo timer keeps the ignition going after i've taken the belt off and gotten out of the car etc.

But yeah, have you tried pulling on it with the car running and not running? Could you feel the difference?

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Pretty loud, yeah!

I haven't had it for a while now, because my alarm's turbo timer keeps the ignition going after i've taken the belt off and gotten out of the car etc.

But yeah, have you tried pulling on it with the car running and not running? Could you feel the difference?

yeah there is like a tensioner that only works when the car is going.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Umm.. no, I didn't. I found it when I made my new parcel-shelf. This is why a couple of shots are through the rear windscreen. =-]

The second pic shows the location. It's kinda under the parcel tray, but adjacent to the rear seat.

Oh, there's that little box that noone knows what it is for! Sits in the left bracket under the parcel tray in Series2's. The same bracket on the right-hand side is empty. Something to do with fuel, apparently.

But yeah, the seatbelt tensioner! Way cool, eh!? Looks to be an Aussie thing done, possibly during compliance. I don't think there is any way to "fix" the noise, cause it's a mechanical device. You could try unplugging it and having just regular spring-tensioned belts.

There is still a spring in them like normal belts, so this should work, and the teeth that grab the belt if it moves a certain speed should still work too. Best to test this though.

The third pic is of the front passenger belt. I had the rear passenger quarter-trim off to fix some broken clips and to run some RCA cables. It too looks to be wired for something, but it is not noisy, only the rears in my car.

Hope it helps! I love gadgets!

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Umm.. no, I didn't. I found it when I made my new parcel-shelf. This is why a couple of shots are through the rear windscreen. =-]

The second pic shows the location. It's kinda under the parcel tray, but adjacent to the rear seat.

Oh, there's that little box that noone knows what it is for! Sits in the left bracket under the parcel tray in Series2's. The same bracket on the right-hand side is empty. Something to do with fuel, apparently.

But yeah, the seatbelt tensioner! Way cool, eh!? Looks to be an Aussie thing done, possibly during compliance. I don't think there is any way to "fix" the noise, cause it's a mechanical device. You could try unplugging it and having just regular spring-tensioned belts.

There is still a spring in them like normal belts, so this should work, and the teeth that grab the belt if it moves a certain speed should still work too. Best to test this though.

The third pic is of the front passenger belt. I had the rear passenger quarter-trim off to fix some broken clips and to run some RCA cables. It too looks to be wired for something, but it is not noisy, only the rears in my car.

Hope it helps! I love gadgets!

well i think il leave it, but if it gets worse or anything i mite pull it apart to look at. i just cant beleieve how noisey it is when u do it. u woulda thought that it was quite for a passenger car.... oh well. thanx for your diagnose anyway.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

No worries... i've never seen it in anyone else's car, and noone seems to have ever heard of it before, but from what you describe, it's EXACTLY what mine does.

VERY lound clunk, and that seat-belt tension thing is wicked.

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No worries... i've never seen it in anyone else's car, and noone seems to have ever heard of it before, but from what you describe, it's EXACTLY what mine does.

VERY lound clunk, and that seat-belt tension thing is wicked.

yeah my first though was it had sumthing to do with the seatbelt tensioner thingy, but its hard to explain what it is to sum1 who has never heard it. my mate were like "WTF" when they first heard it.lol i didnt know what to tell them, just said it sounds like the seat belt thingy to me. :D

  • 3 weeks later...
Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted

My 33 has these seatbelt tension thingys too... but they are connected to a wire under each front seat... looks like they used to be connected to the seatbelt socket thing. When the ignition is on, i can short the two pins on the blugs under the seat and there is the loud 'clunk' noise that you speak of. I've never really noticed too much of a difference between shorted and unshorted, but i'll have to try it out!

It sounds like yours are perminently shorted, so they always clunk when the ignition is turned off... try looking under the seats for a cord, and see if there is anything causing the two pins to be connected (the one on the passenger side is easiest, as it only has two pins, the drivers one has four.)

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted

Okay, couldn't resist the temptation :rolleyes:

I went out and sat in in my car, turned the ignition on, and shorted/unshoreted the pins on the seatbelt connector... The belt seems to slide pretty much the same, although with the pins sgorted there is a slight ratchet-type noise when you pull it, whereas without the pins shorted it is quiet... I can't feel any more or less resistance either way though.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I think the "clunk" noise means that it's working, because mine will do it with ignition, and also if I press the seatbelt release button. Oh, and there is a definate change in resistance...

I think when the new compliance rules came out, the seatbelts had to be changed, whereas mine has the original jap belts according to the tag.

  • 4 years later...
Samuel Leonard Rising Star

Samuel Leonard

Posted
Posted
Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

i have this also. i would've sworn black and blue it was hicas locking itself or something like that... i'll have a listen for the seat belts next time i have someone else near by to turn off the ignition. i'll jump into the back seat and listen... very interesting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...