Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

1989 R32 GTS-T Coupe. 103,000km, manual, turbo, sunroof, black. First australian owner, imported in 2005.

Location:

Batemans Bay, NSW South Coast, approximately 4 hours south of Sydney.

Item Condition:

Mechanically perfect, needs a respray. Small dent on passenger side rear quarter panel. Have been quoted $3,000 for full respray back to original condition, this quote was in a small town though, would most likely be cheaper in a major city. Still looks nice as is though, and sounds very tough.

Reason for Selling:

Upgrading.

Price and Payment Conditions:

$10,000 ONO

Extra Info:

1989 R32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Coupe

Black

5 Speed Manual

Sunroof

Aftermarket Front-mount Intercooler

BLITZ Dual SBC Spec R (Electronic Dual Boost Controller)

R32 GTR Fuel Pump (not installed)

Hi-Flow 3" Cat Converter

Height Adjustable Suspension

3" Turbo-Back Exhaust

APEXi Pod Filter

Xtreme Heavy Duty Street Clutch

Ozzy Racing RS GT Shadow Chrome 17x7" Wheels

Federal tyres as new (5000km use only)

Bride Driver's Seat

Momo Shift Knob

Vertex Front Spoiler

Aftermarket 'Personal' Steering Wheel

SAAS Boss Kit

APEXi Boost, Exhaust Temp, and Water Temp Gauges

Rear Pods

GTR Aluminium Bonnet

Engineering Certificate

Road Worthy Certificate

Rego (~7months)

Complianced

Import Approval

etc... If you're not sure about anything just ask.

Contact Details:

Email: [email protected]

Mob: 0414 527 138

Edited by Lithius
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104475-1989-r32-gts-t-manual-coupe-sold/
Share on other sites

Price lowered to $12,000 ONO, added some interior and engine bay pics, as well as a pic of the dent. It's not so much a dent, more just a paint scuff. A respray would bring it back to a million dollars.

Edited by Lithius
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...