Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Altezza Club is holding another Ian Luff drive day at Oran Park.

This day will be a Stage 2, with some of the 'added goodness' that the Luff crew usually add for us, in order that the day be catered more to driving enthusiasts.

Lunch is also included.

Date: Friday March 10, 2006

Cost: $280.00

Requirements: Car, valid drivers licence, and completion of Stage 1 or similar driving course.

For more info, PM myself or follow this link:

http://forum.altezzaclub.org.au/inde...opic=2193&st=0

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

16 spaces left.

This event is now open to those who haven't completed Stage 1. Entrants will be seperated on the day so that first timers can be bought up to speed early in the morning and then participate in the Stage 2 stuff. A golden opportunity, then!

Apologies for dodgy link!

The day will be preceding Friday, March 10 regardless of wether we fill every slot or not.

Entrants will be divided into those who haven't done Stage 1 and those who have. Those who haven't will cover some of the basics so that they can be bought up to speed and join in on some of the Stage 2 stuff.

14 spaces left. Some Nissan's attending, no Skylines (yet) :P

Hi guys,

saw the invitation off SAU and am pretty interested in joining. Problem is i have not taken any such training and attended any trackies before. (Apart from a couple of laps round a track in my home country in malaysia)

Am only driving my line as a form of transport (ironic but true) therefore would like to get into the sport and learn couple of stuff to handle the car.

Anyone could help mi as to provide information on wat is to be prepared( HMMm i think i sound silly but pls understand i am totally clueless bout this.)

Tks

Jay

Hey Jay,

If you wish to be involved in this event, you need to get your payment in as quickly as possible, as traditionally there is a last minute rush on spots leading up to the event.

The event takes place at Oran Park, 8am till 5pm. Cost is $280.00 and includes lunch. Since you have not done an event like this before, you will be doing a small amount of theory at the beginning of the day, then it's out to do some high speed braking, skid pan work, slalom (around witches hats, motorkhana style) etc.

Please PM or email me if you wish to be involved!

Latest update

24 spots taken. Have just taken 4 confirmations, with a 5th coming through from J@Y on the SAU forums any minute now...

One entrant has mentioned he may have to cancel on Friday, which means that a spot may become available at the last minute. If anyone wants to be on the wait list, please contact me directly via email or PM with a mobile number.



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...