Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was doing a little searching on intercoolers ... i found out that i could buy second hand prts from this site .... is there a place where people post their items they want to sell ... how does it work?

im interested in buying a r43 GTT cooler for my 32GTST. what do these go for? and if anyone has done this before..is it easy to replace my stock one with the 34GTT one?

Thanks Guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105019-buying-a-r43-gtt-inter-cooler/
Share on other sites

Post in the Wanted to Buy section, that you are interested in one

At the same time check the Parts for sale section for people who are selling one.

Second hand GTT coolers will sell for around $200

The R34 GTT intercooler isn't a direct bolt it. It will probably cost you about $50 to make the minor modifications required to fit. A few ppl have done it on the forums (RSTME?)

Hey StOjA,

I have a R34 Gtt Cooler in my R32. I'm changing to a front mount with a front facing plenum in a few weeks and will be selling my old cooler.

When I swap over, you can have it for $250, with all the pipes to bolt directly up to your R32 (the standard R34 or R33 pipes won't fit, without modification)

Cheers, Ryan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...