Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can it affect fuel economy?

i noticed in another thread that a guy got an extra 50/100 ks to a tank of fuel by replacing his charcol cannister

my fuel economy is attrocious and i know my charcol cannister isnt hooked up . .. .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105461-charcol-cannister/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

was reading on another forum that

before i was gettin like 300, until i replaced the charcole canister.. seems to better now..

ive replaced my o2 sensor and fuel economy hasnt changed from 300ks a tank (regardless of how i drive, regardless of low or high boost)

gets slightly better with highway driving

Is the speedo correct? As Im guessing thats the only way you can tell your kms. That or you might have a fuel leak... Maybe. Done all the injector cleaning etc?

[edit]

I dont think a charcoal canister will affect things that much either. I mean mine isnt hooked up, yet Im on 535kms and my fuel light isnt on yet...

yer, speedo is correct, havent done injector clean, but will do

was really hoping the o2 sensor woudl fix economy, but its made no difference at all

strong fuel smell reversing the car up the driveway, and apparently it did have a fuel leak, but piping was repaired

cant smell fuel in the boot at all though

Could be somelike like an injector seal? Who knows dude.

But a charcoal canister has to do with the emmissions control. It is illegal to have it disconnected. Has something to do with fuel vapour or something from memory. Dont quote me on that tho.

I have the same problem with my GTT...went at most 360km full tank...haven't done anything..but I'm going for the power Fc approach..

I'll be tuning my car on the 21st...will prolly know the difference with the fuel consumption a week after..I'll keep update..

My car uses a hell of a lot of fuel compaired to other cars as well. I normally get between 300/350 city driving and 400 highway.

Even when we drove to cairns, the car still only got 400km per tank. Yes admittedly there were places where we weren't doing the speed limit... but I still would have thought that it would have got more than 400k per tank :S

yup, that sounds about the same as mine

i dont get why we are getting such bad economy, yet other skylines making more power in some cases, get much better economy

the bloody car costs me enough as it is, just keeping it on the road, would be nice to get a petrol break, and squeeze an extra 100ks out of the tank

Maybe get a PFC retune?? My new car has a PFC and I get awesome ecconomy (411ks out of 35 L :D ) The new car gets no fuel smell at all where as the R33 you could smell it all the time (Stock ECU) I think engine managment would be the main factor that effects fuel ecconomy

what power you making bunta?

retune :D

wifey wont like it;

ive already spent hundreds of dollars on tunes (switched exhaust, retune was another 300 on top of the origianl 600)

surely for that amount of money, it wouldnt just be a power tune :)

was done at mercury

Edited by Spook's_Skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...