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Originally posted by Steve

whatsisname,  

what sort of internal work have you had done?  Aslo what sort of turbo are you using to get 257rwkw at 13psi?

cheers

Steve

Steve,

Internals are untouched. The turbo is a plain bearing T3/T4 combo using new (at the time) Garrett components. Exact spec’s I don't know unfortunately :D T04E or T04B compressor - 0.64A/R for both housings??? I'm only guessing with this info though.

The turbo combo was selected & fitted by Vince Rigoli, & built by Precision Turbocharger’s in Sydney.

The 257rwkw was on the Tilbrook dyno. Martin did a little bit of tuning of the LT12 Microtech. I wasn’t convinced that it could make that kind of power on just 13psi, but after numerous dyno runs monitoring the pressure ( via Autometer gauge, datalogger on the laptop & position of factory gauge & so on…) I can confirm it was indeed 13psi.

Here’s a “full” listing of all current mod’s (warning – there’s plenty of ricey ones in there ;) )

MODS

Trust exhaust system & dump pipe

K&N pod / CAI / Custom airbox(h/shield)

T3/T4 Garrett turbo (not a stock rebuild)

Adjustable cam gear (4' retard - exhaust only)

Custom FMIC

Custom inlet piping (nil AFM)

Samco silicon hoses

16" DC thermo fan

HKS EVC

Microtech LT12 ECU

Bosch '044 fuel pump

Malpassi RR adjustable reg ( increased base pressure)

NGK BKR7EVX plugs

Oil catch can, braided lines & anodised fittings

Braided & blue silicon lines throughout eng' bay

GFB "Basic" BOV (flows more CFM, & is quieter than, most “look @ me” loud valves”)

Trust oil cap / rad' cap

Anodised & stainless fasteners throughout eng' bay

F17x8 R17X9 Volk wheels

Bridgestone RE540S semi-comp tyres 235/45/17 255/40/17

Optional s/skirt kit, GTR front bar/grill

Unknown origin rear wing

EBC Greenstuff brake pads + Motul RBF600 fluid

King Springs (30mm lower)

Whiteline front strutbrace

Whiteline s/bars

Whiteline camber kit

Whiteline rear sub-frame align/lock kit

Autometer boost gauge in 'A' pillar pod

Trust g/knob & Momo pedal set

Momo Race wheel & HICAS boss kit

Leather re-trim (handbrake, g/boot etc...)

Optima Yellow Top D34 870CCA dry cell battery

Boot mounted battery isolator & new battery cabling

Numerous other minor bits'n'pieces

Blah blah blah………

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Thanks Whatsisname, nice to see a little rice there after all its a japanese car and besides if you look at a lambo or ferrahri (however you spell the bloody thing) they also have asthetic mods which is basically all rice is.

Sounds like you have been busy, quite an extensive list. I have no doubts about the boost and hp figure you have, after speaking to Darren at AED, he is convinced he can get a stock head to flow 600hp at 1 bar!

How early does boost come on, and when does it come on strong? How steetable do you find it. Hope you dont mind all the questions, but really interested to know.

Oops, hijacking, hope no one minds

Thanks

Steve

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Steve,

Wouldn't be Japanese without a little bit of rice :(

RB25DET head - 600hp @ 1bar - very impressive!

My turbo starts making boost about 2500rpm, reaches full boost @ ~3800 & holds it to till redline (7350rpm in my car). It comes on boost fairly hard. Street driveability isn’t bad at all. It’s certainly very docile in 60km/h urban cruising, but due to the 2.5L capacity & 9.0:1 comp ratio off-boost torque makes it a breeze to keep up with a quick traffic flow. Plant the right foot & you don’t have to wait for the boost to arrive.

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Originally posted by rev210

Here is an example : 400Hp or just a snick under in a car that weighs the same as an R33 line (VH commodore) low 11's all day on street rubber, 10's with slicks.

Skylines are not a special case. Apply the basics with that much power and you will get the times.

Subzeros R33 had 400hp@wheels and extensive transmission and suspension work, with slicks and they got into the 10's with alot of trouble.

It aint that easy!

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Thanks mate. It's taken 2.5+yrs & replacement of a few poor choices to get the car to its current stage. Plus a bit of luck here & there with parts working better than expected!

Nothin' to be jealous of mate. Your car is obviously a work in progress, & by the looks of things it's going to be damn impressive in all areas when finished.

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Hi guys, I'm sorry, but this horsepower always = 1/4 time is wrong, factually flawed, incorrect and over simplified.

What about the driver, the suspension, the tyres, the weight of the car, the gearbox ratios, the final drive ratio, the clutch, the aerodynamics etc etc. Don't they have any effect at all?

Shoot, I took the rear spoiler off and picked up 2/10ths, fixed the rear suspension geometry for less negative camber on squat and picked up another 1.5/10ths, took out the rear seat, PS front seat, spare wheel, tools and jack and picked up another 1/10th, tidied up the gearchanges and gained 1/10th, stuck some Nitto's on and picked up 3/10ths.

Same horsepower, 3/4 of a second faster.

I remember why I only go to the drags when I have too, everthing is all about how much horsepower you got. When they find out how fast you go with less than they have, you must be lying about the horsepower. Truth is, I drive better than them (and I'm not very good) and I spent some time on the car other than with my head stuck under the bonnet.

I've seen 450 hp Skylines do 12's and I've seen 'em do 10's, nothing to do with horsepower.

I feel better now, got that off my chest.

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