Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How about a graduated two colour effect with a graphic design. You could respray the top of the car something complimentary to the silver, say a deep purple, with a nice graphic along the side to form the seperation. You can respray the bonnet to match, which would give you a classy new look, without the pain of engine bay, inside of doors etc. You could cover the whole lot in clear. Some very trick custom cars have this look. B)

I was fooling around with this a while back so thought I would stir the pot with a few pics! Not fantastic but you get some idea...

Green:

green.jpg

Bronze:

bronze.jpg

Midnight:

midnight.jpg

Blue/Green Pearl:

blue_grren.jpg

Candy:

candy.jpg

Apologies to the actual owner of this Stagea, not sure where the image came from now...

Cheers

Luke

Yep, that purple one does it for me. Mind you, they all look good. Shows what a nice beast the Stag is to work with.

If you are going to be using it as a daily driver, something like that would be good. A full custom Kandy Pearl coated number would be a mite tempting for a bogan to scratch.... ;)

that green on munchdesign's post looks hot on a stagea.

it looks like hot house green, which i was leaning towards doing.

but after seeing that picture i definately think thats the colour.

looks sweet..

that green on munchdesign's post looks hot on a stagea.

Dont forget the red pinstripe either (complemantry colours), and smoked rims. Would look real nice. :P

But that blue/green pearl looks HORN! :lol:

  • 4 weeks later...

i think the red from the ba XR range is great. real bold red. and a white starsky and hutch stripe going over the plastic bit between the rear windows. it'd suit the lines perfectly.

i'm not ready for racing stipes yet though hah!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...