Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im looking around for new car perhaps a GTS-T (is wat I can afford) .

I'm just wondering if anyone can give me some advice as to what I need to look at when I'm buying a skyline. In other words what are the known problems that these cars have (if any) and what would be a reasonable price to purchase? im not after any modifications anything more than rims is a bonus.

your help with this topic would be very much appreciated.

Thanks guys

Hey guys im looking around for new car perhaps a GTS-T (is wat I can afford) .

I'm just wondering if anyone can give me some advice as to what I need to look at when I'm buying a skyline. In other words what are the known problems that these cars have (if any) and what would be a reasonable price to purchase? im not after any modifications anything more than rims is a bonus.

your help with this topic would be very much appreciated.

Thanks guys

Well, same as buying any other used car on the market - it will never be perfect. Just be very careful if the car has been modified beyond logic and limit. Most cars would not have its original log book. I have only the Australian warranty service log book, but that has run out after 4 years of ownership, so I am only servicing my car every 5000km using top grade oils. If cars have been looked after well it should not give you problems mechanically.

Most mods with these cars would be exhaust, some catback, some full. As long as it's been done properly by reputable mechanics, it should be okay. You can if possible ask the seller who is the tuner and maybe speak with the tuner and see if they remember what has been done. This is important when you cant see parts like forged pistons (but this is should be ok if they can produce a receipt and the power output reflects the level of mods).

As with 94-96 models, most of them would probably be nearing 100,000kms. You need to keep this in mind as timing belt change at 100,000km can be costly (around $1000+ including major service). If they are lowered, see if it's been lowered too much and resulting in too much camber. You'd be visiting your tyre shop every few months if so.

Other than that the car should only have minor blemishes. Look for a poor accident repair sign. No matter minor or major accident if the repair is poor it will give you headache down the road. Other than that generally these cars are quite reliable. Get in, go for a ride, and enjoy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...