Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just curious what you guys think of this compression test for a rb20, thats done 144,000 ks (140,125,125,120,125,130). Stock engine with normal bolt ons. 3"exhaust, AVCR boost controller, BOV, Turb timer.

The timing was overadvanced from the previous owner-not sure for how long, and there was a bit of knocking when under load. Planning to reset the timing and regularly keep this engine in shape.

Trivial question - is it possible to improve the comp test after timing is reset, or will the readings not really change? What are your thoughts/guesses about the engine, just from the info I gave above?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107071-state-of-this-engine/
Share on other sites

I dont think so To fix the compression on a motor a rebuild is in order.

Readings are a little low with an engine with relatively low kays. Sounds like its had a hard life.

Edited by alphanumeric

I know for sure it's a dry test, and when you say Hot or cold, I'm guessing Hot is just after the car has been running.

In which case yes it is a hot test - We drove the car to the mechs and he did the test straight away. This car has been freshly imported and has been sitting in the garage for about 5 months (Not sure how long it has been left in Japan). So I'm hoping as I use it more and give it another comp test down the track it should go up slightly.

Any comments?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...