Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I just wanted to know which way is advance and which is retard on the cam angle sensor (round piece on timing cover)?

As well I heard that the Timing Position Sensor has to be dissconected as well is this true? If so where is it exactly? A pic or diagram would be sweet.

Currently, for some stupid reason, my timing is advanced by approximately 5 degrees and it appears my CAS is turned more towards the driver's side of the car. All I plan on doing is attempting to get it back to the stock reading of 20 degrees. If by chance I retard it by a degree well, it's better then being advanced. I'm also hoping doing this will improved throttle response as it's a little sluggish in the low rpm's.

Thanks everyone I appreciate this. :(

Cheers B)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107199-timing-question/
Share on other sites

Hey man thanks for the info on which way is which. That confirms what I heard.

Now I know TPS usually stands for Throttle Position Sensor however my buddy was talking about some timing position sensor and that it has to be dissconected. Is he right or no? I thought I just disconnect the battery, adjust the cam angle sensor, reset the ecu and that's that. I just don't want to fuzz anything up doing this.

As I said I just want to put it back to roughly stock, nothing more.

I am curious though as to what you said regarding advancing timing. I've always read and been told you retard the timing on a turbo charged motor, not advance it, in order to get better response and prevent detination? Also my engine seems sluggish right now in the low rpm's when it should just go if I pin the throttle and all I can attribute that to is the timing being advanced. My motor is currently bone stock (even the stock air box :lol: ) so again there was no real logical reason for the advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107199-timing-question/#findComment-1979578
Share on other sites

Tell your mate he's a wanker.

As with any petrol ignition engine, you can't adjust / set the timing while the engine is off. It needs to be running - at normal operating temp - and you check the timing with a timing light while you make the adjustments.

If you retard the timing, part of the burn, and therefore the power production, happens too late, and can even happen after TDC - as the piston is already on its way down the bore. Doesn't make for good power production. Advance it and you ensure the maximum burn rate, and therefore maximum power production, occurs just before TDC. Advance it too far and you induce pre-ignition (pinging / detonation)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107199-timing-question/#findComment-1980318
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...