Jump to content
SAU Community

Bush replacement

Silver-Arrowz

By Silver-Arrowz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi benm, down the old Northern Road, past Oran Park (no time to stop for few laps though) and up Rabey Road (watch the off camber round about) to Minto. Nice drive on a Saturday morning. With 203 rwkw and good suspension, should do it in under 30 minutes. Have Wedge take a look at it, even adjustable suspension shouldn't rattle and knock.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

I had it at Wholesale Suspension today (Whiteline and King Springs Specialists in Penrith) and it appears that my rear shocks are kaput.

They are adjustable but coz they are some japanese aftermarket brand they can't be pulled apart and small parts replaced.

I have it booked in next week to get new replacement adjustable shocks put in (gonna take 2 days). Costing me $750 (Ouch!) which is about $100-150 more than I was expecting for the original problem but he said i should deffinetly expect better 'squat' a better smooth ride and no axle tramp

Coulda been a lightened flywheel or new momo steering wheel etc but oh well if thats what I gotta pay then i'll pay it (besides its only a 1km walk from work).

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Man all of this stuff is WAY over my head anyway.

Edit: After looking at UAS from what I can work out this is what im getting. Koni

Adjustable Shocks. (for the same price as what UAS sell them for)

$450 pair + Labour

http://202.139.242.57/images/MVC-017F_2.JPG

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Well they are going to charge me $50 for labour from friday (had my car there for 8hrs trying to find the problem). Then another $250 for labour to put the new shocks in and set it all up correctly.

He said its gonna cost abit more than normal coz they have to take the back seat out so im thinking if i can take the back seat out before i leave the car with them i could probably save $50+ in labour.

I also got recomended to them by my brake specialist and he warned me that i'd get charged alittle higher than normal but its the best place in town to get it done.

Maybe someone at the TNS cruise tonight can show me how to remove the back seat and save me some $$ on labour.

We'll see !

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

You will find that quality work does tend to cost a bit more - but more than compensated for by the peace of mind. It is easy to take the back seat out.

Two bolts front bottom where the seat meets the floor. take these out and the bottom will come out pretty easy.

There are another two bolts at the bottom of the backrest, behind the seat part that is removed first, remove them. The back rest is taken off by sliding it up a bit (you may need to use a bit of force, eg strike the bottom of the backrest with the heel of your palm). Once it has move up about 1.5 inches on both sides it should come free and can then be removed.

You also need to remove the rear deck. I havent done this, but I think it slides into place. Before you can slide it out though, you have to remove the child restrain anchors, an it 'should' be ok. Be really careful as these arent very strong and crack pretty easy. If it does crack, it will still go back in, just may creak a bit.

Dont be too easily put off, it is a pretty easy job, just need a spanner or socket - 10mm if my memory serves correctly.

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...