Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its not that hard just to take the pads out and get them looked at by ur parts place, as i said in the other thread. they have parts books with like all the brake pads in them with real size diagrams to match them up with. that way u will get the right pads the first time, none of this guessing crap, as no one seems to be 100% sure at this point on here, although replicates suggestion of CA18det brakes seems to be the best bet. If u really get stuck i'll go find my old brake pads in the shed and get ya the part numbers, as mine also used to be the non turbo variants.

Edited by skypy12

lol remachined the rotors on my cef a couple of months ago, so will be on the prowl for a new set as well. does anyone know for a fact (ie have you fitted them successfully) if S13/180sx rotors fit?

As for brake pads, take them out of the car, and go to a repco where they have the "big ol book of pads" and find a near match.

ok guys i have found the pads that i am to use havent got the serial numbers but i went into my local auto shop an asked him to look it up an the a31 cefiro non turbo was in the book (i was like WTF) he then checked an he had them on the shelf so im pretty happy with that. But wat i now need to know has any1 changed ceffy brake pads before an if so is it an easy job or is it a bitch? Thanks guys

its pretty easy, take the caliper off (but not disconnect it) then change the pads and then put the caliper back on. You might need to get someone to pump the brakes to move the pots out n stuff tho. I did my brake pads in a couple of hours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...