Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya.. Im new to skylines and was looking at buying an R32 GTS RB25DE.. (I know im a pussy for not getting a turbo but NSW new P plate laws wont allow me to drive one :P

I had a look at a black RB25DE of these cars, which had 95k kms on the odo.. imported in 2002. There were a couple of things that didnt seem quite right though. There was a hole just to the left of the steering wheel which had obviously been drilled, it was about 8mm in diameter about the size of my pinky. Also the vin/chassis number is indented on the little plate thing which is bolted on the car.. Correct me if im wrong but i read somewhere that this number should not be indented and if you run your finger over it, it should be smooth. I ran my finger and u could tell it was indented.. I took it for a test drive and everything seems to be ok any comments anyone?? thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108775-r32-dodgy-or-legit/
Share on other sites

Was the hole the dimmer switch?

I know that skylines dont have these stock and there put in for compliance (someone correct me if im wrong, But all Skylines ive seen have them after compliance).

Maybe it has fallen out? Been removed..etc?

Also, are you talking about the compliance plate? Where was it located and what color was it?

Was the hole the dimmer switch?

I know that skylines dont have these stock and there put in for compliance (someone correct me if im wrong, But all Skylines ive seen have them after compliance).

Maybe it has fallen out? Been removed..etc?

Also, are you talking about the compliance plate? Where was it located and what color was it?

Its not the compliance plate, its just a plate which is on the drivers side of the car, on the wheelmound (I think) its about 12 digits/numbers long and says nothing else.. theres nothing in the hole its just a hole in the panel.. what do you mean by the dimmer switch? I dont know what that is soz...... Thanks heaps for your help

Its not the compliance plate, its just a plate which is on the drivers side of the car, on the wheelmound (I think) its about 12 digits/numbers long and says nothing else.. theres nothing in the hole its just a hole in the panel.. what do you mean by the dimmer switch? I dont know what that is soz...... Thanks heaps for your help

Sorry i cant really help you with the Plate. Maybe take a pic? Call revs and have the cars history checked.

The Dimmer Switch is the button/turn knob that makes the dash lights bright/dim (your speed light control). In skylines they are not a OEM item and are put in for australian complaince, Due to regulations. (Like i said, Correct me if im wrong, But all skylines i have seen in Aus had these dimmer switches installed for complaince).

They are usally drilled into the dash somewhere, I have had 2 skylines, 1 was under the steering wheel, And the other was to the left of the steering wheel.

Cheers.

Sorry i cant really help you with the Plate. Maybe take a pic? Call revs and have the cars history checked.

The Dimmer Switch is the button/turn knob that makes the dash lights bright/dim (your speed light control). In skylines they are not a OEM item and are put in for australian complaince, Due to regulations. (Like i said, Correct me if im wrong, But all skylines i have seen in Aus had these dimmer switches installed for complaince).

They are usally drilled into the dash somewhere, I have had 2 skylines, 1 was under the steering wheel, And the other was to the left of the steering wheel.

Cheers.

hmm that could be it.. theres no dimmer switch in the car at all so that probably is it, although it seems like a bit of an awkward position for a dimmer switch. I thought that maybe they had wound back the ks or something. ill take some photos when its light 2moz and put em up.. thanks for all your help

Its the silver panel on the left of the photo which is infortunately caught in the glare.. thanks

Hi,

This is the 17 digit Vehicle Identification Number allocated to the vehicle in Australia and is quite normal. This number can either be stamped into the chassis or engraved onto a plate that is then rivetted onto the chassis. In Australia this 17 digit number becomes the vehicle identification number for registration in Australia and replaces the original chassis number from the manufacturer.

The plate that you need to be careful of is the original manufacturers plate fitted to the engine firewall. These are the plates that should be embossed not engraved. These plates have Nissan Motor Corp and information including chassis number - model number - paint code etc.

Cheers

Jo

Hey champ, After seeing the photo, Thats pretty much where the one in my R33 was.

Its also weird that you dont have a dimmer switch as ive said previously I think there needed for compliance.

Maybe remove one of the bottom pannels and see if you can see any taped up or broken wires which would have led to the dimmer switch.

You can find some pretty weird things with imports (and all cars for that matter). On my R33, I found signs of previously installed boost gauge and several other things, behind the dash. (taped up wires and a blocked hose from the plenum, etc).

cheers.

Another thought,

It could have been a dual stage boost controller switch, There usally installed under so no (cops) see them.

(just an idea?)

hmm thanks heaps for that r0ma.. its a non turbo so it wouldnt be a boost controller switch, unless something very strange is happening :D I might have a look under the panel one day soon.. now one last question :) behind the back seats, just below the windscreen, right in the middle is a very funny lookin box with a strange lookin spherical fan or something, it seems to serve no purpose. Im a bit of a Newb when it comes to this kinda stuff so this is probably something that comes with every r32, but can someone temm me what it is !!! danke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...