Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R factor is free to Down LOad you have to pay for it when you register, I have broad band but my Ozemail account its really slow 3kb's and i only have a 300mb DL limit:(

i'm just after the setup and installation files

M8 you didn't have to DL it i was after someone that already had it

Edited by Whiplash

well as i said the download is 688mb i have it now but dont u live down south

**EDIT**

ive used 58% of my monthly quota and im not about to use 4gb in 4 days since it a legitamate download i got no problem helping cept for the fact i dont have anything but DVD's to burn it on where about you work and maybee we can arrange sumthing

Edited by Madaz

Guys im noticings you are all pretty cluey i need some tech support i recently had this cpu in my MSI K8T Neo-FSR Motherboard ----- Athlon 64 3000+ 2000 MHz 512 KiB 800 MHz 10x 1.50 V 89 W Socket 754 ADA3000AEP4AX until i broke of one of the pins on a fan clean (bad story).

I got another cpu which i thought was just a desktop one but after changing power supplies and ram i noticed it was a Mobile one. Is this CPU my Problem??????? ------ Mobile Athlon 64 2800+ 1800 MHz 512 KB 800 MHz 9x 1.35 V Socket 754 AMD2800BKX4LB

DRIVING ME CRAZY

ps ( my comp problems were automatic reboot, memory dump, irq issues, stalling in bios setup)

Hope someone can help

Erin

what type of ram are you running it may even be driver issues

sum AMD chips require extra drivers

AMD Athlon™ 64/FX Processor Driver for Windows XP

if thast isnt needed im sure someone will say

More stuff to monitor your chip here the last few look ok like AMD Athlon™ 64 Processor Cool'n'Quiet Software

http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/Techni...71_9706,00.html

maybee your PSU is fluctuating in its volts and when it does your cou reboots

Edited by Madaz

I doubt the Mobile chip will be the cause unless its faulty.

I'm not sure how it is with the A64 Mobile chips but previously mobile chips are nothing more than a high grade desktop chip that is able to run high frequency's at low volts. So the item of choice for overclockers.

Have you tried the usual bios update, rip one stick of ram out, memtest etc?

lowered my 7950GX2 price to 650 dollars now. its brand new. thats a 110 dollar drop. details found in the For Sale section in the forums. RRP still around 1000 dollars and this ones new (4 weeks now) and never been OCd.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143697

In regards to your problem. Can you state here what:

Motherboard

RAM

CPU

PSU

3d CARD

Hard drve

And then we will be able to have a slight clue as to what may be happening.

Edited by SAZilla

Skippy, I have a XP 3200+ you can have for $50 if it will get you out of a spot. Obviously no charge if it doesn't fix your issues - yes try before you buy. Comes with stock heatsink and fan, but will need new thermal paste. Let me know.

try doing this, if you have dual channel set up, take out a stick of ram, then if u installed the CPU yourself, make sure the fan is on correctly, might even be a heat issue for all we know. how many PCI cards, cd roms, hdds and what graphics card do you have. you problem could be a power/heat issue. causes alot of lockups.

do a bios clear by shorting a few designated pins on the motherboard with a jumper and then see if that helped. Look in your manual for the motherboard on how to clear the bios using the jumpers on ur board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...