Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol Cubes I'm suprised Antec would be so dodgy with using those caps? They're meant to be a top tier manufacturer. Speaking of caps, one of these caps blew on me last week on my car's ECU whilst driving in the country at midnite;

ecucapmarks.jpg

Woohoo stranded in the middle of nowhere. Not fun. Bloody capacitors.

Edited by Busky2k
lol Cubes I'm suprised Antec would be so dodgy with using those caps? They're meant to be a top tier manufacturer. Speaking of caps, one of these caps blew on me last week on my car's ECU whilst driving in the country at midnite;

ecucapmarks.jpg

Woohoo stranded in the middle of nowhere. Not fun. Bloody capacitors.

lol bugger..

Those caps are supposed to be ok but not suited to the temps of a psu.. :miner:

Madaz.. Yep I've noticed mainboards are now starting to go solid state caps, taken their time. Vid cards have been solid state for quite some time. :laugh:

Its quite funny as electric guitar amps have been solid state for a while now.

Whats even funnier is the preferred electronics for the guitar amps is the good old glass tube valves :P Apparently produce the best sounds, but u need to replace the tubes every year (or as needed)

Edited by Bl4cK32

im running an antec trupower 2.0 550watt power supply to run an e6600 and a 7950gx2 (which im selling btw) and no problems so far whatsoever... still early days but i like the way this psu operates... now if i can get my bloody water cooling working properly.. i got Castrol coolant running in the mofo and still it dont like the hot weather. the ambient temp and the water temps are killing me. the fan that came with the e6600 was better. when i open the window at night tho the fanless radiator gets working and fresh cold air always is the go for any equipment that dissapates heat.

when i open the window at night tho the fanless radiator gets working and fresh cold air always is the go for any equipment that dissapates heat.

u need fans on the rad to see better temps than a passive system. Same as a car needs to move to keep it cool :(

methanol and what?....

i heard people using Reverse osmosis and anti freeze solution but i dont have any anti freeze on hand. just the RO water.

the unit im using is a Thermaltake Rocket fanless radiator water cooling system. performance is heavily reliant on the delta temperatures and therefore if its 30 degrees in the house its going to be nearly 50 degrees on the CPU in idle and the CPU is an E6600 which means max safe temp is 60 degrees... dangerously high.

when i run the aircon and get the inside temp down to 24 or so the cpu runs like a dream and does not mind a heavy overclock at all. ~36 degrees idle.

on whos opinion. a proffesional one or yours. my system makes 0 noise practically. only 1 fan needed now. i wanted to sacrifice as little as possible including the price of a system for silence.

yeah that is a pretty harsh comment black32. I suggest you talk to the dozens of high-end PC techs who use Thermaltake all the time and never have a problem with them, me included.

I have a 480W Total Watts Viewer in my current rig and it works flawlessly .... and I overclock it like a biatch. I am running a power thirsty XFX 7600GT, o/c 4200+ @ 5800+ speed, 4 case fans, 2 DVD Burners, 2 SATA hard drives and 2 IDE hard drives, and it doesn't even break a sweat (and I know this as it came with a 5.25" bay digital readout panel of current watts usage). It is silent (but comes with fan speed controls also), and runs smooth as.

I think your comment is far too subjective - maybe you should read the thousands of good reviews of Thermaltake power supplys that litter the internet.

FYI with all of those parts listed, my PSU still only runs at 96-100W at idle and 160w in-game.

When heavyweight guys like TomsHardware are utilising a Thermaltake PSU in the 'dream rig', you would have to think the quality is top notch?!

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/21/ibu..._gaming_system/

or when you read reviews like this? (on my specific PSU)

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews/totalwattsviewer/index.php

or the hundreds of raving favourable reviews I found on a quick Google search including this one

http://www.overclockercafe.com/Reviews/oth...V480/index.html

Maybe every reputable IT website who does these reviews is completely wrong and you are right?

My 2c :(

aaaaaaagreed. i think tho i am going to hand this thermaltake rocket back for a thermaltake bigwater or something similar. bigwater seems to be loved by alot of enthusiasts for price and peformance. id favourably make one myself but then Id have to pick a good pump, resevoir, radiator etc... if i could get my hands on one of the 240v powered server chassis fans from work and install that beast and didnt have to put the computer 200 mtres away from the screen and kb/m then id do it but they are too f**ken loud.

Ok for starters i was referring to the thermaltake line of watercooling kits, so hope that clears it up for you both.

2ndly do a bit of research on OCAU in the extreme cooling section, and ask what the guys there think of the thermaltake kits. Ive seen numerous results that prove and show thermaltake is one of the worst kits in performance when watercooling. Not talking professionals, we're talking user end reviews of heaps of ppl who use the kits day in day out, not some random who reviews a kit on a once of basis and gives their 2c.

Without me doing any hard searching (which u could do)

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...rmaltake+rocket

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...altake+bigwater

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...altake+bigwater

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...ght=thermaltake

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...ght=thermaltake

etc...etc....the list goes on

FYI - toms hardware arnt the most reliable sources...

If u want diy look at the swiftek range of gear.

Watercooling + PSUs/Fans are a different story mate.

We use Thermaltake in the corporate environment to beef up the fans on our mid-level pc's. Very happy with them for cost, performance and noise. I know of at least five major adelaide-based multinationals that use Thermaltake products, especially in our hot dry environment here.

I wouldn't hesitate in recommending their products to my colleagues.

lmao...who is linking what i origionally said to thermaltake psus???

I made a reference to the watercooling kit which SAzilla was talking about. Nightcrawler jumped to the conclusion i was referring to all thermaltake products.

I own a thermaltake case, and its the best case ive had :D I dont have a problem with any of their products besides the watercooling kits...

As for the psu's the bundled ones with cases are known to be shiet - http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...rmaltake+psu%2A

However, Thermaltake thought it necessary to stick a label on this power supply that declares an output power of 400W and even promising a peak output power of as much as 500W! But as I made sure in my tests, even 300W is too high a load for this power supply. Depending on the particular conditions, either its overload protection reacts, or the attached system hangs up due to a sudden drop of the output voltages, or the unit just burns down. And the XP480 comes in system cases that can hardly be called cheap: the retail price of a Tsunami Dream is about $140. This case is unlikely to be bought for a low-power office machine I guess."
Edited by Bl4cK32

thermaltake case, antec psu and watercooling kit by thermaltake whcih makes no noise but performance relies havily on surrounding air flow and temperature

i think im gonna find a custom pump and radiator soemwhere but ther waterblock for the CPU is sweet as. for the other parts i cant say the same.

ah cool mate, sorry I misinterpreted what you said .... Thermaltake cases/PSUs ftw :D

I haven't used their water cooling products, but find their heatsinks/fan setups to be very good. I never got into water cooling, always found the idea of water running through my PC way too scary!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...