Jump to content
SAU Community

intercooler woes.... advice please.....

WHITE R32

By WHITE R32,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

WHITE R32 Grand Master

WHITE R32

Posted
Posted

i have a manual 12/93 r32 gts-t and i am looking to install an intercooler and pipework myself...... this leads to several questions that im putting to anyone who may be able to help me.....

(1) can anyone please tell me the size that most ppl use as far as coolers go without having to take air con bits and pieces etc out.....

(2)can anyone please point me towards pictures or anything that shows where the pipework from cooler to engine runs

(3)my car has a std gts-t front bar etc and what do ppl usually mount the coolers onto

(4)and lastly......do i have to cut and shut or remove the bonnet latch support that is directly under the latch.......

any help would be greatly appretiated.... i am very mechanically minded and im not dumb i just wanna get a few ideas before i get into pulling stuff apart....thanks Jon...... :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10922-intercooler-woes-advice-please/
Share on other sites
Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted

You can fit a 600x300x70mm cooler into the front of a 32 without too much trouble. But you probably dont need to go that big.

Loots of trimming of the bumper is required and you need to cut some metal from the base of the bumper support. The bonnet latch dosent need to be modified but you may need to cut the support for it depending where you mount the cooler.

Use 2.5'' pipes, these are the best easies to work with.

For the mount i use the three bolts on the bottom of the front of the chassis where the drip tray usually bolts. This allows you to run a piece of metal parallel with the cooler to mount off of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • r32-25t
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...