Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Evening/morning all,

long time reader and first time member/post. i am what seems like eternity but is only a few months away from purchasing a car i can now afford after 15years. i have a yard whom imports them often and has a few dreams about his pricing now and again but he really does get some nice cars and some bunkers. recenlty looking through his yard i noticed not alot of them were complied and infact some had doorskins missing but was later expalined as to be being preapred for the intruion bars. anyway i noticed a disturbing trend inmost of these cars as the weather seal and strips were almost nonexistent. alarm bells ringing and all it looked like you had to remove and replace these seals not only the front but back window seals also. 15 years is 15 years but some were almost gone and some were still good but i noticed it was the most thing that stuck out in all of them. the door seals and strips on the outside were perished in alot of them too. do any you members have any such issues when buying or after buying your car with the seals? they hard to replace? you need a new screen? i am panicking over nothing? its just i know after a while if left unattended they will eventually leak water into the A pillar and it goes pear shaped from there. who knows if water has come in and started rusting? any and all advice is appreciated in advance.

Regards,

T

Simple mate: There are a lot of other cars in better condition..

My car is 10 years old, and the seals are in perfect condition, with no cracks at all..

You just gotta be picky and find another car..

But if you were to replace the seals, it wouldnt cost that much, if u just get a local guy to do it..

So what car are you lookin at?? What you mean, i can now afford after 15years??

If its a doddy yard, and you dont feel comformtable, isnt it a simple answer.. try somewhere else??

Yup, or if you sydney, go to www.sspi.com.au

Its a compliance shop, and does most of the complicance anyways from most of the online importers.. you can buy a car direct from them.. Thats what i did.. No dramas at all..

Cheers..

Hi and thanks for the advice,

after 15 years because 15 years ago they cost 100-120,000 bucks new in australia...if you could get one!

i have an onroad budget of 23000 absolute max and onroad i mean with insurance at around 900 a year for my age. also being married you have to have a budget that you both agree on and stick to. if id ont agree/adhere to the budget i simply cant get the car.simple. a few months to go and i may even have to go east to pick one up as they are thin on the ground in perth. i figure it is that way because we dont even have any comliancers for R32s here...YET! we get some slim pickngs or have to be buy sight unseen and pot luck it from importers. granted sometimes your luck is good but of all things i hate to put buying a car down to pure luck...and indeed it is. i figure there are some cars in the east for prices around the high teens early twenties then i factor airfair and accomodation then the car carrier back i may get something decent.

the guys here wants mid to low 20s for some of his ones and i must say they leave a bit to be desired, like big scratches on metallic paintwork, spot rusts near the reaer wing and weathered and hardened interior trims. i have almost convinced myself not to buy one when i went looking for a whole weekend but the redeeming point was that the wife suggest i look interstate.

pointers anyone? which states best price easy transport?

thanks again,

T

Take this advice from me.. When you buying cars such as skylines, and you have a strict budget to ammend to, always budget another 1k on top for various things that will pop up n you wont realise it..

so save another 3-4 k i say, and purchase one in better cond..

or get a really nice s2 r33... that will perfectly fit with your budget...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...