Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Topaz said:
Which Skyline? R34?

Sure you couldn't post to the thousandth as well :P

CHECKED TIMES LAST NIGHT

PEUGEOT 905 RACE CAR 5:45.478

MINES R34 SKYLINE NOW 6:29.386 NO NOS

Edited by WHENNY19
  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  KamikazeR33 said:
im kinda sceptical on ur time, as nos generally removes 2 seconds

i think i saved the replay no nos fitted at all to the car.

with nos you should be able to take off more than

2 seconds on such a large track

*edit, typo*

I did the ring in 5:45 something in the R32 GTR Calsonic... Fully worked with nos and a long 5th. No spins, and a generally good clean run. I had holidays for 4 weeks :)

  oscar32 said:
*edit, typo*

I did the ring in 5:45 something in the R32 GTR Calsonic... Fully worked with nos and a long 5th. No spins, and a generally good clean run. I had holidays for 4 weeks :)

Got a split?

...and maybe post a pic of the screen for these 'ultra' fast times :dry:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

'97 R33 GTR Vspec

8:37.421

Stock w/ sports med tyres

Slides more than the 32 i reckon so i think i could better my R32 time easy.

BTW im only doing 2 laps with each car as it not the shortest track in the game lol. first is to get the feel of the track with the car and then i see if i can beat that one.

Edited by Freddy Kruger
  Freddy Kruger said:
BTW im only doing 2 laps with each car as it not the shortest track in the game lol. first is to get the feel of the track with the car and then i see if i can beat that one.

thats exactly what I do, you need to set a time and a ghost car to beat :D

'99 R34 GTR Vspec

8:24.817

Stock w/ sports med tyres

i rate the r34 :ermm: definetly holds the road better than the r33. plus it was red so it gained an unfair advantage with speed :sick:

might do a 350z next or the gtr proto? dunno...

Edited by Freddy Kruger

Modified Mines R34 GTR

6:54.775

i could get quicker i reckon with changing the gears and suspension as it topped out at 348kmh on the straight and slid like a mule round some corners...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...