Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just wanted to post this dyno sheet to show what sort of difference a GOOD tune can do for car with a PowerFC.

The only difference between the two runs was a minor service, and the PowerFC Tune (done by Ben @ UAS). He did an awesome job as you can see! ;)

Free plug for Unique AutoSports! They did a great job!

post-23673-1142997812.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110666-power-fc-tune-unique-autosports/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah definitely. It's a very noticable difference!

A lot better response now. The turbo that is in there (Apexi unit) spools really quickly now, whereas before it was really sluggish to get going. It's a lot more fun to drive, as I found dont have to concentrate as hard on keeping the revs up in certain corners etc.

But you said it - I'm happy with it "for now"... Give me 6 months and I'll want more. It's the relentless pursuit for more power we all suffer from! :P

Lol not me.. I just want to win an auction on a damn 33.. then my licence back.. May 23 and were rolling! Im on here to pick up a few tips/tricks before i get it.

224.7kw that would be nice and lively in the hills i bet.. what other mods do you have? 2 Way LSD? Coils?

Yeah there isnt that many places to really open the car up in the hills (best left for the track anyway!!)

Are you buying privately, or through an importer?

Other Mods:

Apexi GT Spec FMIC

Apexi Turbo (380hp)

Apexi PowerFC

Apexi Boost Control Solenoid

Apexi N1 Coil-overs

3" Exhaust (Turbo Back)

High flow Cat

Bigger injectors (550cc or 700cc, not sure)

Aftermarket Fuel Pump

Standard Coils (For now...)

etc.. etc.. etc..

thats some nasty AFR's on the initial runs.. how long you been running on that tune for?

did ben do much work with the around town/light load maps?

how much did it set you back to tune? and how long?

I'm not sure of the exact amount, as I got a bunch of other maintenance type stuff done as well.

Approx $450-500 I think. Ben did mention it was a full tune from scratch because there was some silly stuff in the old tune (originally from Japan). Total time on the dyno was about 4.5 hours i think.

I had been running that tune for about 4-5 months..

lol.. yeah just about...

I would wash my car, and within a week, there was black stuff all over the bumper again... it was very annoying!

suprisingly i didnt get THAT bad fuel economy... about 15.5L/100k.. But it should be miles better now!

Yeah as i mentioned above, black crap all over the rear bar was a regular occurance.

Surprisingly i've noticed more black smoke since the afr's have been fixed. Either that, or i've just got more time to look at the guy in the rear view mirror since gaining the 30rwkw :P

Yeah it does add up, but i'd kill to have a 225kw turbo that does 10.5l/100k!! BTW Craved, where do you live? :P

:D

im from out near richmond (NSW) but yeah driving from out there to pennant hills is a pretty ok drive for fuel savings..

let us know what fuel economy you get, am keen to see

Yep, ill let you know.

im from out near richmond (NSW) but yeah driving from out there to pennant hills is a pretty ok drive for fuel savings..

Ahh yeah thats a decent distance! I live right near Pennant Hills actually.

Small world, or over population of skyline owners? :P

Nah that wasnt me, but there are a couple of others in the area.. If it had a black bonnet it was Wilch.. There is also a guy that lives around here that privately imports and sells skylines, so it could have been one of his.

I'm surprised I havent seen you around anywhere though.. do you usually have the skyline around this area?

used to drive it around, but its pretty much been off the road for the last year haha

it was only the wing that made me think of you.. and yeah i know wil pretty well, it was past his house anyway lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...