Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NSCC and ProConcept are having a Swap Meet and Sale

Sunday April 2nd.

Yes it is the day of the Aussie GP but we will have TVs set up to watch it so bring your fold up chair and favourite beverage.

Got parts you want to sell or swap?

Looking for a bargain?

Want some proper race gear so you look the part on the race track?

Enjoy a snag and a natter with fellow car nuts?

When: from 9am Sunday the 2nd of April

Where: ProConcept, 1a Mellor St West Ryde

There will be wide selection of Sparco gear for sale:

Race Suits from $400

Helmets from $500

Boots from $130

Gloves $90

Seats $tba

We will have some other retailers in attendance offering super specials. Keep watching for details.

Other clubs will be invited so don't forget to bring your NSCC membership card for even better prices.

Note: A small sellers fee will apply to help offset costs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110950-swap-meet-and-sale-april-2nd/
Share on other sites

There will be no charge for sellers now. However, to get some idea of how many people will be selling things, please PM if you plan to bring some bits to sell and roughly how much you have for sale.

Following is the list of Sparco items for sale:

ITEM/SIZE/COLOUR PRICE

RACE SUITS:

BLACK - 50 SPRINT SUIT $400

WHITE - 50 SPRINT SUIT

RED - 50 SPRINT SUIT

BLUE 52 SPRINT 2 SUIT

BLACK 62 SPRINT 2 SUIT

SPARCO -2 RED 48 SUIT $600

SPARCO-2 RED 52 SUIT

SPARCO -2 RED 54 SUIT

SPARCO -2 BLUE 46 SUIT

SPARCO -2 BLUE 62 SUIT

SPARCO -2 BLUE 84 SUIT

SPARCO -2 YELLOW 50 SUIT

SPARCO -2 54 S/WHT SUIT

SPONSOR-2 52 BLACK/WHT $650

SPONSOR-2 52 RED/WHT

SPONSOR-2 52 BLUE/WHT

SPONSOR 50 BLACK/YELLOW SUIT

SPONSOR 48 RED/WHT SUIT

SPONSOR 52 RED/WHITE SUIT

SPONSOR 54 RED/WHT SUIT

SPONSOR 48 BLUE/WHT SUIT

SPONSOR 52 BLUE/WHT SUIT

PRIMA SUIT -62 S/GREY $1000

PRIMA SUIT - 62 S/WHITE

PRIMA SUIT - 54 YELLOW

PRIMA SUIT - 52 RED

PRIMA SUIT - 62 RED

PRIMA SUIT - 62 BLUE

PRIMA TOP - 62 RED/SILV

PRIMA TOP - 52 GRY/S/WHT

BOOTS:

GREEN-40 TOP DRIVER BOOT $130

RED 39 RACING 2 BOOT

RED 40 RACING 2 BOOT

RED 41 RACING 2 BOOT

RED 42 RACING 2 BOOT

BLUE 41 RACING 2 BOOT

BLUE 43 RACING 2 BOOT

BLACK 42 RACING 2 BOOT

RED 40 TOP 2 BOOT $180

RED 41 TOP 2 BOOT

RED 42 TOP 2 BOOT

RED 44 TOP 2 BOOT

BLUE 40 TOP 2 BOOT

BLUE 41 TOP 2 BOOT

BLUE 42 TOP 2 BOOT

BLACK 41 TOP 2 BOOT

HELMETS:

S - WHITE PROJET HELMET

S - TOP RACE HELMET $500

XL - TOP RACE HELMET

S - FORMULA HELMET $550

X - FORMULA HELMET

XS - DYNAMIX HELMET

XL - DYNAMIX HELMET

XS - SN2000 HELMET $650

S - SN2000 HELMET

L - SN2000 HELMET

S F1 WTT SPARCO HELMET $900

L F1 WTT SPARCO HELMET

S TK WTT SPARCO HELMET

L TK WTT SPARCO HELMET

XL TK WTT SPARCO HELMET

S KF WTT SPARCO HELMET

L KF WTT SPARCO HELMET

XL KF WTT SPARCO HELMET

GLOVES:

INDY GLOVE - RED SIZE 7 $90

INDY GLOVE - RED SIZE 8

INDY GLOVE - RED SIZE 9

8 - RED SUPERPRO GLOVE

8 - BLUE SUPERPRO GLOVE

12 - BLUE SUPERPRO GLOVE

BLUE - 8 BUDGET GLOVE

BLUE - 9 BUDGET GLOVE

RED - 8 BUDGET GLOVE

RED - 9 BUDGET GLOVE

BLACK - 10 PROFI GLOVE

BLACK - 12 PROFI GLOVE

BLACK - 13 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 7 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 8 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 9 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 12 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 13 PROFI GLOVE

RED - 8 PROFI GLOVE

RED - 9 PROFI GLOVE

RED - 11 PROFI GLOVE

RED - 12 PROFI GLOVE

RED - 13 PROFI GLOVE

YELLOW L - 7 PROFI GLOVE

YELLOW L - 9 PROFI GLOVE

YELLOW L - 13 PROFI GLOVE

GREEN - 7 PROFI GLOVE

GREEN - 9 PROFI GLOVE

GREEN - 13 PROFI GLOVE

BLUE - 12 G/PRIX GLOVE

RED - 11 G/PRIX GLOVE

RED - 12 G/PRIX GLOVE

S - BLACK PREMIUM GLOVE

M - BLACK PREMIUM GLOVE

S - RED PREMIUM GLOVE

L - RED PREMIUM GLOVE

XL - RED PREMIUM GLOVE

S - BLUE PREMIUM GLOVE

M - BLUE PREMIUM GLOVE

12 - BLACK FAST TECH GLOVE

RED S SPEED GLOVES

RED M SPEED GLOVES

BLUE S SPEED GLOVES

BLACK S SPEED GLOVES

BLACK M SPEED GLOVE

OTHER:

SPARCO KEY RING $8

RED - SPARCO SPRINT SEAT $tba

BLUE/NVY - SPEED SEAT SPARCO

BLACK - SPEED SEAT SPARCO

RED/BLACK - SPEED SEAT SPARCO



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...