Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

29,990 to be accurate. Done 48,000 ks...although that seems a bit suss...i don't know. Modifications that i found were a pod filter, exhaust, and coilovers. The trim inside was immaculate, hardly any stratches, inside looked really new, dual sunroof. Bit of dust though ahahah. umm...thats all i can think of right now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111307-autostyle/#findComment-2052071
Share on other sites

I bought my Stagea through a dealer at a much higher cost than they were going for, mainly because mine had a butt load of mods and was in very, very, very good condition.

Honestly I would prefer buying from a dealer and getting a warrantee, but that is just me.

But just because you buy from a dealer with a warrantee doesnt mean you wont be buying a heap of crap.

Try talking to others who have bought from the dealer before. Take the car to a trusted mechanic to do an once over and a compression test. Do your homework on the car, meaning grab the VIN number and run it through FAST, (ask AlexCim to here :D).

Other than that, it is really up to you wether you want to import through companies like JSpec/vrfour/etc, buy privatly or buy through a dealer. Each have the pro's and cons. Each could save you thousands. Each could land you a bargain. Each could land you a lemon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111307-autostyle/#findComment-2052640
Share on other sites

I dunno about RTA.....

But you can take a look at DOTARS..? Stick in the VIN and the plates and you can check out all the RAWS details listed for the vehicle, here:

http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubVehSearch.asp

If you ask someone who has the Nissan FAST software (do a search here or AliexCim has it installed, might pay to PM him), and chuck the VIN into that, it will tell you what it rolled off the factory floor with, like options and paint colour.

I dunno, anyone else got any other suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111307-autostyle/#findComment-2052964
Share on other sites

I am in in deep thought about a s2 Manual RSFour in Autostyle. Even from a reputable dealer like Autostyle, is it still worth double checking, gettin someone professsional to check out the body and engine first? Would it be cheaper to find on on J-spec? Im so lost.... :D

Szemen,

I paid $29k for my S2 manual through a dealer - Northshore Prestige Imports. It had an original 46000km on it, no sunroof, but with the TV/SAT nav/climate control touch screen LCD.

The manual's are rare and wonderful and the conversion from an auto to a manual sounds like a bitch.

Definitely get the car checked out independently ! It'll cost you between $200 and $300 dollars for a full report and it's peace of mind that a warranty just can't compete with. A dealer warranty is only 5000km or three months. And you might not notice everything that is wrong with the car in that time.

A mechanical inspection can tell you about brake pad wear, suspension components and tyre alignments, engine requirements and other stuff that you might not be aware of or able to test.

Regardless, get them to put a car on a hoist for you and check out:

Look for rust around the door sills, door hinges, suspension, engine bay, under the spare wheel and around the chassis.

Make sure the wipers don't hit the bonnet and wipers and fluid dispenser work (both front and rear).

All lights internal and external.

Abnormal wear on the tyres, particularly the inside of the rear tyres.

All engine fluid level.

Colour and texture of the engine oil and coolant.

Ensure all door rubbers are OK.

Lose or not snug fitting lights, particularlay on the rear of the car - which may indicate body panel damage or repair.

Hope some of that helps.

Also, work them on price. Maybe see if you can get a set of aftermarket wheels and tyres thrown in (they might have some that fit from other vehicles), or get them to pay your stamp duty and rego. Work a hard bargain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111307-autostyle/#findComment-2053407
Share on other sites

29,990 to be accurate. Done 48,000 ks...although that seems a bit suss...i don't know. Modifications that i found were a pod filter, exhaust, and coilovers. The trim inside was immaculate, hardly any stratches, inside looked really new, dual sunroof. Bit of dust though ahahah. umm...thats all i can think of right now.

As I've said in many many posts - the km's WILL NOT BE GENUINE. I looked at every series 2 S in the Japanese Auction system for over 6 months and RARELY saw one with less that 60K kms, with most having over 80K kms.

Take todays auctions for example - there are series 2 S having 136,000kms (starting price 650K) , 67,000kms (starting price 790K), 142,000 kms (starting price 750K). And they are grade Accident, 4.0, and 3.5 respectively..

Lets see how much the 67,000kms grade 4.0 one goes for...

Look back through some old auctions, there was one 1999 Four S with 45,000Kms a few weeks ago which you would have been able to directly buy, get here, and rego for about $30K. But that's no profit for the dealer, and reasonably rare....

But what I've also said in quite a few posts IGNORE THE KM'S ANYWAY. These cars are made to go and last, it doesn't fall apart at 100,00kms (or even 200,000kms+). So as one of the other posts says, look at it in detail and decide on what you can see, not the kms.. :(

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111307-autostyle/#findComment-2053768
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...