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OK This is now starting to piss me off. The idle problem seems to have fixed itself but the car still has a problem starting after its been sitting a while (i.e. overnight, between when i leave it at work and get back to it in the evening).

Im about to get my hammer out an do some damage so can someone please help. It seems like its having issues turning over/ cranking up when its cold. HELP

Background info: The car had a cracked radator and overheated. After that it had an idle issue and starting problem. Reseting the ecu seemed to have fixed the idle issue but the damn car is still having starting issues.

The car isnt losing coolent, not drinking oil and NOT throwing out smoke. No bubbles coming out of the radiator when you rev the car.

Someone help before i do some damage please !!!!!!

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Does it crank but no ignition?

or it doesnt cranking at all?

will it start up after many tries?

if it doesnt crank or intermittent, possibly ur starter motor is faulty.

check when u cranking it, get a meter and measure the alternator, maybe its weak!

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It cranks fine, but it keeps cranking (sound as though there is no petrol) Ive gota pump the accelerator a couple of times for it to start.

It used to be a car that wouldnt take half a crank to start before the radiator craked and the engine overheated and turned off

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Also, there was coolent all over the engine bay when the car overheated. Is there any possiblility that coolent could have got into something is causing this starting problem. Any where i can check.

So far ive checked the electrical plug connectors in the engine bay near the radiator but i woulda though if coolent got into any one of them it would create a short and blow a fuse, but no fuse is blown

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its getting more complicated.

should check these things:

- check your coolant temp sensor. CHECK FIRST possibly!

- Check for Start Signal to the ECU, its PIN 43, it should show battery voltage when u cranking

- Its possible that the lag in starting is a problem in getting fuel up to the injectors.

Edited by RBFIRE
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How do i check the coolent temp sensor, is there any specific way????

Getting fuel to the injectors??? Coincedential that it happend after i cooked the engine ??? would the overheating done anything to the injectors???

Edited by 4drlvr
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easier way,

Do ecu diagnos,

wat car is ur?

i fink they should be similar,

on R33,

Open up the fuse box inside the car, on the driverside, near the bonnet release,

there sould be a grey plug,

there a couple of pins there,

but look for the 2 pins that sititng by themselve,

get a piece of wire,

turn on ignition, dun start the car tho,

u will see all the lights are on, look for engine light,

NOW short circuit the 2 pins for 2 seconds. u will see the ENGINE light will disappear, then it reappear and will flash.

If its flash, 1 long and 3 quick flashs,

that is CODE 13. that is COLANT sensor faulty.

if it has 5 long flash and 5 quick flash, ur engine is good!

try it ad see wat code u get!

Edited by RBFIRE
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Error Codes:

Here is a list of error codes.

11: crank angle sensor circuit

12: air flow meter circuit

13: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit

14: vehicle speed sensor circuit

21: ignition signal circuit

26: boost pressure sensor

31: ECU

32: EGR function

33: exhaust gas sensor circuit (left)

34: detonation sensor circuit

35: exhaust gas temp. sensor circuit

42: fuel temp. sensor circuit

43: throttle position sensor circuit

45: injector leak

51: injector circuit

53: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)

54: signal circuit from A/T control to ECU

55: NO malfunctions in the above - this is the one that you want to get

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Ok,

maybe ur coolant temp sensor is on its way out, but ecu didnt pick up the error code.

could be ur coolant temp sensor corroded,

locate it and unplug it, see if there are green/clogged up etc.

clean it,

it should be on the coolant hardpipe from radiator to the engine, look for a plug, am not exactly sure where it is on r33, i will have a look at it, and tell u where it is in the morning. will try to take some pic as well,

The CTSensor itself can fail also, so if you have a multimeter you can check the sensor by measuring the resistance across the terminals which should be around:

2.1-2.9 kOhm at 20C

0.68-1.0 kOhm at 50C

0.30-0.33 kOhm at 80C

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Hi Darrien, I presume this engine management set up would be similar to most others n put out a 5V signal on the coolant temp sensor circuit. Looking at the figures you quoted on resistance, id say the simplest thing for RJ to do is to unplug that coolant sensor so its open circuit... and start the car. Id imagine as a safe option they'd want the car to run rich rather than lean if for whatever reason you did have an open circuit = 0v to ECU.

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Hi,

my understanding of the CTsensor is that it tells the ECU the engine temp so it can regulate the correct fuel mixture richer when cold, leaner when warm so when your CTS is faulty, the ECU thinks the engine is permanently cold so you will run very rich all the time = very bad fuel consumption, hesitation, very high idle and sub par performance,

so to check the resistance, if the readings are correct at specific operating temp, shows that the CTsensor are in good working order.

Edited by RBFIRE
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Hi Boys

Thanks for the info, i unplugged the CTSensor and started the car but still no go.

What i also did was (did this when the CTsensor connected & disconencted...No difference) Crank the car and on 2.5 turns of the engine it wants to start but if i dont give put the accelerator to the floor at this time(when it wants to start) it wont start but will keep turning and eventually to get it started i need to pump the accelerator.

Something tells me its to do with fuel, maybe fuel pressure ???? Thoughts and soz dnt have a multimeter on me but yeh........

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Well its preety clear that you need to take the car to an EFI specialist. Who would first prob check fault codes, maybe look at the plugs...Just wondering Darrien do u know if the ECU will go into Clear flood mode n shut the injectors down completely at (WOT)wide open throttle (when cranking) Maybe its a case of too much fuel and opening the throttle helps. In anyway we can sit here n have stabs in the dark, does not mean much. Id also have a close look at ur TPS.

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Ok Guys, this is what i did which has seemed to have fixed the starting issue. Since the car was idling a little bit lower than normal(bout 400) and almost cutting out when i put the car from drive into neutral (when the car was not moving) i decided to change the idle for it to idle bout 500 (on the line before 1 on the tacho).

Turned the car off and then started it, started up with a lot more eas without me having to put my leg on the accelerator to start it.

Left the car overnight and started it this morning and it started fine, still does that extra turn but it starts almost the same as it used to.

Will do an oil service on the car and get it checked out on the dyno, but other than that it seems to have fixed it..... but id still like to get rid of that extra turn

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Hah this is starting to happen again. I tried to start the car this morning and it didnt start again. I know the approximate amount of turns the engione does before it starts and i let go of the key for the engine to start but it sort shuddered and didnt start. Then cranked it again and it just cranked over and over, for it to start i had to pump the accelerator to start.

God damn car wats the matter with it..........

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